Help With corner weld corner

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JBergelin

JBergelin

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
Posts
374
Loc
Big Rapids, Michigan
We have a big oops - the frame was joined with corner weld prior to nailing - curious that the liner did not fit one end. Lo and behold the corner is off and I need to break apart the corner weld - the joint has not been nailed yet.

As mentioned in an earlier thread corner weld does not give up easily :icon45:

suggestions?

thanks
 
When you say that the corner is off, do you mean that it was not joined with the ends matching? If the frame looks ok otherwise, I'd just shave some of the outside edge of the liner, rather than rebuilding the frame.

If you have to take the frame apart, use a soft surface, and tap the frame down on each corner until you hear the glue crack. Continue until the corners are loose and the nails can be pried out. Sand and rejoin.
 
If you have corner vises...Let's see if I can put this into words clearly...

Twirl one side of the vise until the clamp bar is all the way in. On the other side of the vise, clamp one leg securely, making sure the opposing leg is on the OUTSIDE of the clamping bar that you twirled all the way in. In other words, the backside of the twirled in clamping bar will touch the INSIDE of the frame.

Making sure the one leg is clamped securely, turn the other side, moving the clamp outward, so the clamp pushes against the inside of the frame an is pushing the leg outwards. A slow steady pressure from the clamp as you turn it will pop the corner, usually really clean, especially if it hasn't been nailed yet. :)
 
With Corner Weld you will need to lean on the frame with one corner on the floor. Do it gently but it takes a lot of pressure. You may find that pieces of the opposing rails wood is stuck to it. If you have a corner sander you can smooth it or on a saw you can shave it ever so slightly. If you end up with missing pices of wood on the end of the miter you can just use enough glue to be sure it fills the gap and rest assured that the corner weld will be as strong or stronger than the wood.
 
I use UMS brand yellow glue. Still have a gigantic container of it. Is corner weld better for joining wood or something?
 
If there is ANY gap, take a Japaneese saw...or whatever they are called. Its those paper thin bendable fine tooth saws you can buy.
 
Thanks

Good ideas all - wish I could bookmark this tread for future reference. After revisiting the liner it is just a smidge off so I think I will try the sanding the edges option this time....

Who knows next time.

thanks all
 
The way I like to break the corner joints is a variation on what Jeff said. (this is for breaking all the corner joints. If you want to only break one, there is a way to do it, but I won't get into that for now)

Put the frame standing on the floor, holding the top rail with your hand. Depending on how big the frame is (dimension as well as frame width), you may gently put your foot on the bottom rail that is on the floor for stability. Then you just rack the frame side to side, gently at first and build up using more pressure if you need to. Again, depending on the size of the frame, it may move side to side a good bit without being broken. You'll know the corner joints have broke when you hear it crack. You may have to keep going back and forth until you hear or see all 4 joints broken.
 
cjmst3k said:
I use UMS brand yellow glue. Still have a gigantic container of it. Is corner weld better for joining wood or something?
Click to expand...

Any of the Tite Bond variations would be OK, and you can buy them at any hardware store, but CornerWeld and Maxim are the two brands I prefer. Both of them readily available from framing suppliers, and they are both formulated for framing. That is, their chemistry is good for the grain structure of most wood mouldings, and their "open" times are predictable and long enough to accommodate the whole joining process. Maxim offers a choice of fast or slow "open" time, which is sometimes very handy.

Any modern PVA or polyaliphatic resin glue would make a bond stronger than the wood fibers themselves if the miters are perfectly mated with no gaps; and if both miters are free of dust, skin oil, marker ink, or other matter; and if the joint is tightly clamped until the glue sets up. That's a lot of "ifs".

That said, you can break the glue joints on nearly any moulding without destroying the miters, if you are careful.
 
I have had succes using fishing wire to saw through a corner piece that I didnt want to risk breaking. I dont know if that will work with corner weld, thats not the glue I use.
 
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