wheat starch paste hinging problems

Rebecca

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Framers aren't the only ones who can have difficulties with wheat starch paste hinges! This is from the Conservation Distribution List, and I thought some of you might find it interesting!

"Date: 19 Feb 2004
From: Sharon Connell <s.a.connell@leeds.ac.uk>
Subject: Lithograph on cigarette paper

Jayne Girod Holt <girodj@rcn.com> writes

I have a 20 x 30 inch lithograph on cigarette paper that needs to be mounted for exhibition. I've been experimenting with different methods of hinging and so far haven't found anything that doesn't cause cockling (my experiments have been on a sheet of buffered tissue, which is a similar weight and feel to the cigarette paper).

I've tried using both thick and regular tengujo hinges, methylcellulose and wheat starch paste adhesives, etc. I've tried working as dry as possible. The print is too large for photo corners or edge supports.

--------------------------------------------

Have you tried using hinges with serrated edges and attaching the points of the serrated edge to the print?

What about matting without hinges e.g.using a polyester sling or
encapsulating in polyester?

These methods are described in the AIC BPG Paper Conservation Catalog, 5th edition, May 1988. Let me know if you want me to send you the details.

Sharon Connell
Conservation Officer
Leeds University Library
+44 113 343 6375

------------------------------

Date: 19 Feb 2004
From: Daria Keynan <dkeynan@aol.com>
Subject: Lithograph on cigarette paper


I would try using the Micro-dot hinging technique and quick drying them with a heated spatula. In case you have not come across it.
Micro-dot hinging was a poster by Katsuhiko Matsuda at IIC Baltimore. It is a great technique for water sensitive or slightly
transparent papers. I use it with paste, methyl cellulose, combination adhesives and even as a remoistenable hinge system.

Daria Keynan

------------------------------


In order to attach japon hinges to delicate japon papers without getting bulges: I humidify the entire piece in felted Gore-tex and damp blotters. When there is just enough vapor humidity in the paper I apply the hinges and then press the entire piece in Hollytex, dry heavyweight cotton blotters, and plexiglas sheet with a minimal amount of weight. Sometimes just an extra sheet of plexiglas or two is enough.

Linda Shaffer

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I would suggest in such case to use heat set techniques for the hinges. You can consider using a very thin Japanese paper pre
prepared with dilute Plextol / Movilit or even Paraloid B-72. Naturally you`ll have to make some experiments for best results.

Michael Maggen,
Head of Paper Conservation Laboratory
The Israel Museum Jerusalem"

This last one won't make sense to most of you, but similar results (and I think superior) can be had with Lascaux HV360 acrylic emulsion on Japanese paper. The emulsion dries tacky, and can be used to make a reversible pressure sentitive tape. The technique does require some experimentation, and won't work for everything.

Rebecca
 
I've done some experiments with making hinges for very lightweight papers using filmoplast R, Filmoplast R is not the P90 tape most of us know of, but a lightweight silkspan like paper that tears with long fibers and has a heat sensitive adhesive side like a drymount tissue but on one side only. You tear it into small hinges and attach it to fine paper without any shrinkage problems. If not heated to the edges it can be removed. I use this rarely by it has saved the day a time or two. In a strict CP job I would do it more conventional.


I throw this out because it fits the thread as an alternative.

Rebecca
Are you familiar with this product?


framer

[ 02-25-2004, 12:15 PM: Message edited by: framer tg: ]
 
Hi Framer,

No, but I'd be interested in adding it to my list of experiments. I'll get some next round of ordering and try it out, and also see if I can find out anything on it's aging properties. Thanks for the heads up.

Rebecca
 
So you know how I attached it. I heated the hinge carefully using a variable temp soldering iron that was set to just set the adhesive. I would tack it down in a 1/8 wide by 3/8 long area. Watch out for too much pressure.

I only Z or T hinge.

framer
 
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