What type of adhesive...

Create a Post
Lets see, FG and FGII are taken so you'll just have to be FG3.
FG3,
Heat reactivated PolyVinylAcetate glue (PVA). Known by several trade names as "fabric adhesive", "mighty muck", "miracle muck" depending on from who(m) you purchase it.

There are tutorials available from each of the suppliers on how to best use the glue.
 
The acrylic gloss medium that artists use can
be painted on the window and allowed to dry. Thin
fabrics such as silk can be ironed onto the acylic
which will function as a thermoplastic adhesive
with a low potential for penetrating the fabric.
The advantage of this material is that it is
formulated to be stable and non-reactive.
If a heavier fabric such as linen is to be bonded,
the layer of acrylic medium should be more thickly
applied.

Hugh
 
Hugh,while we're on glues, ever heard of adding ammonia to pva glue to make acid free glue. This idea has just been brought up at our shop and sounds pretty horific to me. The idea came from a tutor at an art school so I had better find out in a hurry.

Regards Alan
 
Originally posted by Alan Beitz CPF MPFQ:
[QBever heard of adding ammonia to pva glue to make acid free glue. Regards Alan [/QB]
Click to expand...
Alan,
Adding Ammonia to PVA will more likely solidify it than anything else. Most latex glues are little balls of polymer that are suspended in the base. The glue may already be slightly basic to start with. Addition of strong base can cause the droplets to rupture and turn it into putty. Take any glue like Elmers and add 20 muleteam Borax in solution (Just a few drops) and stir....Instant silly putty.
 
I should've mentioned that I am wrapping a heavy linen on probably an 8-ply mat. I am trying to get nice crisp corners. Thank you for all your information.
 
Calcium carbonate (chalk) is a much better additive for making PVA acid-free over the long
run. It is already in most conservation quality
mat boards, so it will not be a change in the
chemistry of the mat package. Fortunately, University Products has just brought this product
out and they can be reached at 800-628-1912. Since
it is new, some of the staff may not be fully
aware of it, but John Dunphy can help you get some.

Hugh
 
FG3, If you have the use of a vacuum/heat press you can put the fallout back on the fabric covered mat and use it to deboss the fabric to the bevel and corners. If the fabric is really thick you may have to shave a bit of the fallout off to use this technique.
 
I attempted to order fabric adhesive from United but they cannot deliver the product in cold weather. I tried the dry mounting technique last time but did not get the crisp corners I am wanting to see.
 
I think I am correct in saying that most framers reverse the bevel on fabric mats particullarly on those to be used with fillets. I don't know if Falcon has a site for their fabric adhesive, but go ahead and order it. Get the small size and do a few mats for practice. You will not be sorry. Email me when you get it, or call me at the shop any day but Thursday and I'll helpl you with it - 817-738-7328. You will need a small foam (the disposable type) paint roller.

I like the look of covered bevels, but the fusion method is tricky. If the fallout moves even a 64th of an inch it looks awful.
 
Hi Gal,
You don't want to order the PVA glue in cold weather. Wait a month or so. (wishful thinking, eh?)

But it is a simple matter to just get to your neighborhood art or craft supply store and pick up a bottle of Acrylic Gloss Medium that Hugh mentioned. This stuff has the added benefit of being C/P. You could also get some SOBO glue (aka PVA glue) to play with.

Are you doing 4 ply or 8 ply wrapped mats? On 4 ply mats I use either white dry mount tissue or the medium and use the heat to bond and then I roll the fabric around (very precisely and prissily and tightly) to the back and stick it down with ATG. If the corners look a bit "floofy" (thanks Jan!!) I cut in very cautiously with a blade to the corner, then I put a touch of PVA glue (Sobo works great) on the tip of an awl and roll it into the corner and around to the back. This will discourage any ravelley-thread business in the corner.

Jo, sometime just to be contrary, I will put a fillet on a regular bevel- it really looks kind of neat- sculptural and dimensional, perhaps? Try it and let me know!

Okay, Gal, I just saw your mention of 8 ply. I use 8 ply rag (a friend of mine uses fomecore and fusion) and either white dry mount tissue or the medium. Either way, I go back after I have applied whichever stickum to the surface of the mat and brush on a bit of either PVA glue or medium to the bevel and then let it dry. Like Hugh mentioned, let the thickness and weight of the fabric dictate how thickly you apply the glue to the bevel. I mount the fabric in my heat press and let the fabric "flop" a bit over the fallout- in other words, I don't pull it tight. (The trick is knowing how much to let it "flop.") Then when I wrap it around, I have a bit to work with in the corners. I do use the fallout back in the opening on the second go-round in the press to neaten up the corners, but the real crispness comes when I use the tacking iron on the bevel and in the corners. I also glom a tiny bit of PVA or medium in the corners like I mentioned above.

My friend who uses the FC and Fusion has a looser looking corner. She has perfected it so that it looks like it is supposed to be that way.

Let us know what worked for you.

edie the allwrappedup goddess
 
When we use fusion 4000 we usually do reverse bevels... but ypu can use it for bevel side up also.. We have a very "small" travel iron that we use in the corners to get a tight fit. . Just use beveled tip of iron in the corner with a small piece of adhesive release paper . Iron it in tight. Use a little fabric glue on the back of the corners where it is folded back to hold any frays. It is easy fast not messy and looks wonderful.

Judy
 
I've ordered my Mighty Muck from Falcon..yay! One thing I've done to combat the fraying of fabric is using a no-fray/STOP fray product from Michael's. (I'm home now so don't have the exact product info.) I just brush this on lightly where I am going to be cutting. Works well for the cut made into the corner of the fabric. As I've mentioned, my problem is getting the fabric to adhere into the corners on the mat and I hope to accomplish better corders usind this Mighty Muck.
 
I do not understand why one would want to mess around re-inveting the wheel - playing with additives sounds to me like a lot of unnecessary work.

"Good Glue", a water soluble, acid-free glue, available from LJ and most other reputable suppliers can be applied in any appropriate thickness, left to dry and activated by heat in the manner outlined by Hugh earlier in this thread.

A flat even surface can be prepared by applying the glue by roller.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top