Question What thread to use when Mounting a Hockey Jersey

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Hi all. I am new to this site. Wish I would have known it existed when I first started framing.

ANyway I have a signed hockey jersey to mount and I am unsure what type of thread you should use for the sewing aspect of the mounting. Any suggestions/recommnedations?
 
When I am attaching a jersey, I start off by making a foamcore form to fit inside the shirt. This gives the shirt much more support than just stitching it down. Also if you just stitch it, over time the shirt with "tent" were the fabric will sag every where that wasn't stitched and it will look like a circus tent with points where it is stitched.

As to what thread, I use a double duty thread when I have to stitch, but 99% of the time I use a tagging gun similar to what Attach-Ez sells.
 
i too cut a foam board the shape of the shirt (to put inside the shirt) and use the Attach EZ system!
Attach EZ makes quick work of it!
If you buy an Attach EZ kit, it comes with a DVD that steps you through the How to.




Z
 
Nowadays I use a hybrid approach, using the AttachEZ to attach the jersey around the form, and then stitching to affix that to the substrate. I feel more secure about having SOME stitches, strategically placed.
:cool: Rick
 
I have framed hundreds of hockey jerseys, and I always used cotton quilting thread because it's designed to be pulled. I found that the plastic hang tag thingies never worked for me.
 
I am brand new to this game - what is a EZ kit and where can you get it
 
Scott - Thank you. I wasn't sure of the thread type. I would prefer the thread of the the EZ tag thing as I am looking at the conservation aspect.

Thank you for all the responses.
 
What difference conservation wise does thread vz tagging gun make? I never really understood the logic that one is better than the other. Both are easily reversible without damage to the fabric. Tagging guns are used by the manufacture to attach the price tag and other information cards to the garment.

Someone above mentioned not trusting the tags and that they might fail or pull out if the item is shocked. Isn't that the reason that you want a weak hinge when attaching a piece of art so that the hinge tears before the art? In any case, with a proper form inside the jersey this is never going to be a big issue because the weight of the jersey hanging from the form and the form is hanging from the tags.
 
I do not quite understand your last sentence. "the weight of the jersey hanging from the form and the form is hanging from the tags". Isn't the jersey covering the form on both side? Do you tag the form through the jersey to the mount vice the jersey to the mount? I think now that I wrtoe it out again I am starting to see what you meant.
 
I certainly do not mean to step on any toes with my comments, but I just stumbled across this thread after a conversation I had with a customer this morning. We do framing for the Lebron James Family Foundation and do a fair amount of jersey framing. I have always used Trilene 4 lb. fishing line to sew down jerseys of any kind. This morning one of the gals from the foundation came in to pick up a frame project and complimented us on the fact that we do NOT use the EZ attach system. I have never heard a comment like before and have used the other products from the line with great success and happy results.

You may want to consider the fact that some customers do not want to see the plastic tags on their product. I am also a fan of heavy cotton thread depending on the project.

Lori
 
Lori, the way I do it, the tags are all under the top layer of the fabric through the form, the back layer of fabric and then the mat backing. None of the tags show from the front at all.

I have seen others just going through the front of the fabric but that is pretty shotty work IMO.
 
www.attach-ez.com

Most of the time the tags are hidden behind the fabric. If I ever have to have any shown, I use the markers to color the tag and it's so well hidden that you have to look hard to find it.
 
I certainly do not mean to step on any toes with my comments, but I just stumbled across this thread after a conversation I had with a customer this morning. We do framing for the Lebron James Family Foundation and do a fair amount of jersey framing. I have always used Trilene 4 lb. fishing line to sew down jerseys of any kind. This morning one of the gals from the foundation came in to pick up a frame project and complimented us on the fact that we do NOT use the EZ attach system. I have never heard a comment like before and have used the other products from the line with great success and happy results.

You may want to consider the fact that some customers do not want to see the plastic tags on their product. I am also a fan of heavy cotton thread depending on the project.

Lori
Lori, I don't mean to put down your methods of attaching Jersey's but you seem to have been given some misinformation on the tagging gun system. From what I have seen, the difference between fishing line and nylon fasteners is pretty clear. Fishing line biodegrades over time and 4 lb line is sharp, as well as strong enough in the beginning that a catastrophic fall from the wall could really do damage to the shirt. The line will cut the shirt, rather than break. On the other hand, the nylon fasteners will pull through the holes of the backing board without doing harm to the shirt.

I introduced the tagging gun system to the industry 12 years ago and in that time millions of shirts have been attached using my method. There are also lot's of shirts out there that have been attached by people who say they are using tools similar to Attach-EZ, which says that they are doing their own thing. Anytime someone says that they don't like to see the fasteners, it tells me that they aren't using my methods and probably have never seen a demonstration on how to correctly fasten down a shirt with a tagging tool. The fact that the LJFF people even knew the difference is surprising because they wouldn't even know how the shirt was attached if it was done with a tagging tool and correctly installed according to my instructions.

I have seen first hand the damage that can be done when a shirt is attached with thread that doesn't break in a catastrophic fall. I have also had many production houses that frame 1000's of jerseys a year call to ask how they can attach a shirt that won't let go during shipping. I will ask them," was there damage done to the shirt?" and the answer is always, no.

When a package is dropped 10 ft off a truck or conveyer belt during shipping,
it is a good thing when the fasteners pull through the holes during that kind of a hard fall. I've got 20+ years of framing experience and 12 years of first hand data that dispells a lot of the misconseptions about the use of tagging tools to mount jersey's. The fasteners are nylon and don't biodegrade, the needles are ball point and won't cut the fabric. To be considered archival the shirt must not be harmed by the attaching system and break away without harm during a fall. There are millions of jersey's out there and thousands of framers who use my methods and can attest to the fact that the system saves countless hours of labor and does no harm. So, you didn't step on my toes, you gave me the oppertunity to dispell the misinformation that rears it's ugly head at least once a year. And for that I thank you.

Note: If you really want to be archival, you should check out my newest method for mounting all types of clothing. It's sewless and fastenless, with no piercing of the fabric.
 
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