What kind of tape do you use for sealing the framing package?

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Randy Jordan

Randy Jordan

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Oct 4, 2008
Posts
596
Loc
Hays, Kansas,
I was finishing a job today. As I was sealing the framing package, like I always do, I noticed that I'm about out of the tape I use for the seal. I started wondering what anyone else uses, (I'm not a big masking tape fan) So, if you use a certain, type, brand, width, or color. I be interested in finding out what you use. Randy J.
 
I rarely do it but when I do I use J-Lar. This should not be near the artwork so if there is plenty of mat from the edge to the art the tape works great.
 
I don't tape the framing package and I really resent having to remove the tape when re-framing! Please stop doing this!!!! I charge extra to remove the art because it is so time consuming. If the customer asks to re-use the glass and it turns out to be too hard a task, I just cut another piece instead; my time is too valuable to be picking 20 year old masking tape off.
 
I've been using 3M 810 tape for dust-sealing for 22 years. It peels neatly off, even 22 years later, as nicely as the day I put it on. I have yet to have a piece of artwork slip and come anywhere near the tape.

edie the tryityoulllikeit goddess
 
I also use Magic Tape for sealing the edge of the glass/mat/backing package. Because, as Edie sez, it comes off again easily. J-Lar is a bear and has to be scraped off in an application like this.

For sealing a dust-cover, there is no tape I have ever found that does the job - we need a water-activated 2" wide tape like the Brits use only we need it to be acid-free (like the self-adhesive Lineco which I have found rarely sticks to anything other than matboard).
 
Baer Charlton said:
Wow... there is an American that still does that? :eek:

I thought only emerging countries and England did that..... :party:
Click to expand...

OH dear... We seal our framing packages with Scotch tape as a general rule. We do a lot of framing with acrylic and would go insane if we did not.

So.. being from an 'emerging country:icon19: does this mean we should stop this practise now?
 
We use 3M Scotch brand 850 polyester film tape. The best price I know (and it still ain't cheap) is at uline.com. It comes in clear, silver, black and red.

Conservators debate the merits of the sealed frame package. We do it as the default. Sometimes we will seal it all except for to short slits at the bottom corners, to allow a certain amount of humidity exchange.
 
05 said:
Conservators debate the merits of the sealed frame package.
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You have mentioned this a couple of times before. Like you, we tightly close frames as a general rule. My understanding is that tightly closing the frame package slows the rate of change inside.

Maybe there is a semantic problem with the terms "sealing" and "tightly closing". The use of masking tape or plastic tape around the perimeter of the frame package would not provide a seal, since air and moisture could transfer through those tapes, as well as through paperboard backings and typical acrylic glazing.

I am unfamiliar with conservators' reasoning against tightly closing or fully sealing the frame package. Could you please share it? I suspect their concerns may not be the same as ours.
 
I rarely seal the package... usually only after refitting an item fifteen times and deciding to seal in utter frustration. :icon45: When I do I generally use 3M 810 tape also.

I seal maybe 1/10th of 1% of my jobs.
 
Tape for tape sealing

Check out this free atricle on tape sealng on the FrameTek web pages: http://www.frametek.com/HTML/Articles/dust.html

THis method will save you a lot more time than it takes and slow down any rapid changes in humidity inside the frame package - better for the art.

I wouldn't bother removing any previous framers tape job, just slit through with a razor - clean etc. and tape over it.
 
I have been taping the glass/mat/backing package for 11 years now. I started when I first participated in the art-circuit with ~ 35-40 shows per year. Since I moved framed items from show to show, I was really bothered by debris (bugs, splinters ...) migrating from the edge of the frame onto my white mats, especially when I was making a pitch to a customer, and a splinter of wood on the mat would be staring me in the face! I learned the technique of taping (I use United acid free tape) and cutting the excess with a hand held razor blade. leaving 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch on the top surface, which is hidden under the lip of the frame. Taping takes about 1 minute per side. The debris migration problem went away. I just got into the habit and will continue to do so. If you have a suggestion for a better tape, I am open to it.
 
05 said:
We use 3M Scotch brand 850 polyester film tape. The best price I know (and it still ain't cheap) is at uline.com. It comes in clear, silver, black and red.

Conservators debate the merits of the sealed frame package. We do it as the default. Sometimes we will seal it all except for to short slits at the bottom corners, to allow a certain amount of humidity exchange.
Click to expand...

We switched to that after Jayme suggested it, but just for conservation items. Otherwise we just use the 3M 810, but I heard they discontinued it so I purchased a 4 month supply 3 months ago. I hope it's still around.

Off topic, I sent a customer there several days ago who had what she descibed as a gold leaf closed corner standing mirror water damaged at the bottom. I hope you guys can help her.
 
I hardly ever seal a frame package. When I do, it's usually because the customer tells me they are going to hang it in a bathroom (or sometimes a kitchen). The only other case is when I get frustrated with a particularly flaky moulding that keeps spitting little flecks onto white or suede mats. I have used both jlar and regular scotch tape, although I'd be open to trying something else. The trick with that is, once the piece goes home with someone, unless they bring it back for some reason, I have no idea how well it has held up.
 
Wait a sec.......... you guys do this for every single frame package?

WOW! I've only EVER done it on super duper conservation pieces......
This is very very very interesting............... :confused: :confused:
 
I only tape packages if they are a PIA. And I only use scotch tape, magic tape.
J-Lar, no way!
 
My method is similar to Greg's corner-taping technique, except I use tabs of 3/4" 811 tape along the edges of the package. Depending on the overall size, I typically use 2 to 3 on the long sides and 1 to 2 on the short sides. With the package face up, I apply the tape perpendicular to the edge, overlapping onto the face by about 3/32", then cut to form a tab long enough to go around to the back, and press it in place. This uses about 3/4 of an inch of tape per tab, is very quick to do, and you can constantly re-inspect for debris as you proceed. The thing I like about this method is that if you do discover a last-minute speck or two it is easy to peel back the tabs closest to them and fish the specks out. Then the tabs can be flipped back up and re-burnished.
:cool: Rick
 
blackiris said:
Wait a sec.......... you guys do this for every single frame package?

WOW! I've only EVER done it on super duper conservation pieces......
This is very very very interesting............... :confused: :confused:
Click to expand...

Yep for 11 years. It has just become a habit. Occasionally, I'll skip an 8x10, but I feel guilty about it.
 
Wow, there seems to be a lot of different ways we do things. That's why I love this forum! Anyway, I have always sealed the package (glass,mat, backing), I thought that everyone did this to prevent little critters and humidity, and Dust, from entering the package. When I heard the word dust, I figured I should seal every piece I framed. The reason? One word, KANSAS! I don't think many of you have seen the sky turn a hazy brown from the blowing dust, but I happens often here in Western Kansas. In fact, you can dust the dining room table in the morning, and when you get home from work, you can write your name on the table. I have sent some work out without sealing the package, but have nightmares about it. :nuts: I don't think it takes long once you've done a few million times. I also think it looks neater and more "professional":D I appreciate all the input and hadn't thought of 810, which sounds like it would solve the problem of being the "next" guy to open it up. Well, I've enjoyed reading all the posts. For all of you reading this while you're at the WCAF, brdtrrrhaflj[ppp!! (that's the rasberries in text,) (yeah, I know, I'm OLD!) Randy J.
 
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