Help What Glue BU?

Create a Post
Dave

Dave

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Posts
13,355
Loc
Edwardsburg, MI
The attachments below are pictures of a Station of the Cross that were removed and are part of an installation I'm doing for a hospital job.

I would like to remove the old glue from the back of the fourteen Stations and wondered if anyone has any idea what glue might have been used. I am looking for suggestions on how to remove it.

The pictures below show the front and back of the cast metal plaque and the glue residue on the old wall paper they were mounted on. Of course the old wallpaper will just be discarded.

I appreciate any suggestions!
 

Attachments

  • AUT_2349.JPG
    AUT_2349.JPG
    85.5 KB · Views: 69
  • AUT_2350.JPG
    AUT_2350.JPG
    105.9 KB · Views: 54
  • AUT_2351.JPG
    AUT_2351.JPG
    114.1 KB · Views: 55
I'm trusting that you could have smelt silicon. :D

Is this glass hard like 5 minute epoxy would be?

Jeri beat me to it......
 
Yes, adhesive is very hard. Acetone doesn't even seem to do much to it.

:icon9:

To aid in removing the wall paper backing I placed them on my heat press and turned it up to 300 degrees. Helped just a little bit to release the backer but not much.

:shrug:
 
construction epoxy. Try tapping with a hammer.... but I think you're actually looking at some belt sander time.
enjoy.

sucks to be you right now.
 
Heck... since removing the old adhesive was not part of my proposal and therefore they ain't payin' me for it, I think I'll just leave it.

These are going on a curved tile wall in the chapel so the backs won't touch except for the edges. My plan is to use the existing rods, drill holes and use 5 minute epoxy to mount. A little duct tape could hold these puppies until they dry.

:kaffeetrinker_2:
 
Dave said:
These are going on a curved tile wall in the chapel so the backs won't touch except for the edges. My plan is to use the existing rods, drill holes and use 5 minute epoxy to mount. A little duct tape could hold these puppies until they dry.

:kaffeetrinker_2:
Click to expand...

My only two thoughts on this are

(1) I've not had much luck drilling tile... keeping the bit from wandering until it bites is a nightmare, and I've cracked about one out of three tiles I've tried to drill. Good luck to you!

(2) Re-attaching them with epoxy definitely pays the grief forward... what's going to happen 20 years down the line when the NEXT framer gets called to move these things again? :) I'm not sure I have any good answers, and epoxy might be the least bad solution available, but still...
 
Dave, when drilling the tile, use a sharp new masonary bit. Don't push too hard, let the bit do the work. A little masking tape on the tile will help with drifting of the bit. Spray bit once in a while with lubricant. Go slow and easy. (Oh, and tap on the tile to make sure it is on a solid backing and adhered well, if it is hollow sounding and you push while drilling most likely will crack it. )
 
I'm actually going to use a diamond tipped bit, masking tape and lots of water to cool the bit. Since these are on a vertical surface I'll also need to go very slow and allow the bit to cool. After the diamond bit goes through the tile it'll be necessary to use another bit to drill into the drywall or backer behind the tile. Bron will be doing this with me and he'll need to be my water boy! ;) Constant cooling.

28 holes... need extra bits just in case.

What have I gotten myself into???
 
A simple ceramic bit is all you should be using. The tip is shaped like a spade in a deck of cards. Tape to prevent skidding. No water necessary.

My brother's business is granite, marble and ceramic installation.
 
Dave,

What have you gotten yourself into? Deep stuff, very deep, especially when you told me a "committee" was doing the placement of some of the items.

The usual response to a curatorial request to move a heavy painting hanging from two hangers on a brick wall, was OK, we'll have it done after lunch, do nothing, and after lunch, ask how they liked it. I'll take that over a committee any day.

Your humble helper, former museum minion. ;)
 
I'm liking the carbide tip thing. No cooling necessary.

I'm afraid they have carpeting down and the thought of trying to cool the bit with tens of gallons of water while drilling on a vertical surface kept me up half the night last night.
 
Dave Scotch makes a double sided Indoor/Outdoor tape, its "Super Heavy Duty" used for mounting signs and stuff. You could use it to hold your pieces in place while your glue dries. Its a gray tape with red release coating.
 
Good suggestion, Randy.

I appreciate everyone's help on this "why-in-the-####-did-I-agree-to-do-this-project".

:shutup:
 
Dave, that mounting foam tape Randy mentioned is also used to mount bathroom fixtures to tile...and it works.
 
I'm not sure if I mentioned this, but the wall is a curved tile wall and the Stations of the Cross are flat backed...

The curve is slight, but...

Monday is D-Day so I'll report back.
 
I've lost some sleep over this and have learned quite a bit both from you folks and also from my own research.

Alleluia!

I found out this morning that the "curved tile wall" is actually dry wall with a faux finish on it and an acrylic coating to make it look like tile.

I will sleep much better tonight...

DancingLeprachaun.gif
 
Create a Post
Back
Top