What are you 3D printing today?!?

News update for the tourniquet clips project. The manufacturer of the printers is donating 10 spools of their Onyx® filament. I will be receiving one of these rolls to continue the project. This time it will be the batons that are used to twist the fabric band and
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lock it tight.
 
While helping a client load his frame into the trunk of his car, my client saw a box of his old car radio. He took the radio off his car several months ago and forgot that it was in his trunk. I ask him if he could remove the box from the trunk (he had a large jersey frame) and temporarily put it inside the car. He said he thought he threw the radio away a long time ago. I mentioned to him that the radio in my 21 year old truck was beginning to develop a few problems. He then said "the radio still works fine, I just wanted a new one with the features I like. You can have it. See if it fits your truck, if it doesn't, give it to someone else or just throw it away". Last weekend, I did some research on the web and found out that the radio has long been discontinued and I needed to get a wire harness to make it work with my truck. I found a used wire harness on ebay and I installed it in my truck. After installing, the radio didn't fit exactly. There was a gap around the sides
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I could not find an adaptor face plate on ebay, Crutchfield, etc. So I decided to see if I can 3D print it. I took some measurements and did a quick design on Tinkercad and printed this red prototype
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After making a few design adjustments, I printed this black one, sanded the edges for easy installation and installed it
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Here's a few more photos
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While helping a client load his frame into the trunk of his car, my client saw a box of his old car radio. He took the radio off his car several months ago and forgot that it was in his trunk. I ask him if he could remove the box from the trunk (he had a large jersey frame) and temporarily put it inside the car. He said he thought he threw the radio away a long time ago. I mentioned to him that the radio in my 21 year old truck was beginning to develop a few problems. He then said "the radio still works fine, I just wanted a new one with the features I like. You can have it. See if it fits your truck, if it doesn't, give it to someone else or just throw it away". Last weekend, I did some research on the web and found out that the radio has long been discontinued and I needed to get a wire harness to make it work with my truck. I found a used wire harness on ebay and I installed it in my truck. After installing, the radio didn't fit exactly. There was a gap around the sidesView attachment 41979
I could not find an adaptor face plate on ebay, Crutchfield, etc. So I decided to see if I can 3D print it. I took some measurements and did a quick design on Tinkercad and printed this red prototype View attachment 41980
After making a few design adjustments, I printed this black one, sanded the edges for easy installation and installed it View attachment 41981
Here's a few more photos View attachment 41982View attachment 41983View attachment 41984
Wow, that looks super!
Nobody would know it wasn't a manufactured part if you didn't tell them.
Good job 👍
 
Love the radio bracket!

This is our current project. A lot of stl files (over 100) and a month of printing. We used 4 FDM printers, and 1 resin printer (for some of the really small details that are only 1/4" high each)
It is partially glued together, ready for final prep and painting (By Andy!)

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Love the radio bracket!

This is our current project. A lot of stl files (over 100) and a month of printing. We used 4 FDM printers, and 1 resin printer (for some of the really small details that are only 1/4" high each)
It is partially glued together, ready for final prep and painting (By Andy!)

View attachment 41987
So when is the SS Labbe going to set sail?
 
Love the radio bracket!

This is our current project. A lot of stl files (over 100) and a month of printing. We used 4 FDM printers, and 1 resin printer (for some of the really small details that are only 1/4" high each)
It is partially glued together, ready for final prep and painting (By Andy!)

View attachment 41987
That is incredible!
Can't wait to see it painted. :popc:
 
sooo......I didn't look at the estimated print time when I rendered a new model earlier today.
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😲

Oh My Gosh Hello GIF by kate spade new york
Cabin Fever Reaction GIF
.....:sleepz:
 

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I'm surprised you didnt put Jyers firmware on your E3 v2 :)
 
Actually, I would wait. There is a new version of Jyers firmare for the Ender 3 V2 coming very soon.
 
Actually, I would wait. There is a new version of Jyers firmare for the Ender 3 V2 coming very soon.
It's on my list of things to do.
I just haven't taken the time yet.

I have noticed that the Time Remaining counter is almost always wrong.
After a few hours, the Time Remaining had been adjusted to 60something hours.
It's been printing all night and when I woke up, it was down to 40something hours remaining.
Seems weird to me.
Should print time be a calculation with known parameters; print speed, filament usage, etc.
Why doesn't it display an accurate print time from the start?
Will the time counter be fixed with that Jyers firmware update?
 
Yea the default (Creality) firmware has a lot of quirks, doesn't save settings to the board (saves it to the sdcard), doesn't show long filenames or much info on the print screen, etc.

The new version (from a second developer) is up since 3 days ago, but only in an uncompiled format. Hopefully they have pre compiled versions posted soon :)

Calculating completion time is not an exact science, either. It likely averages the future layers on the past time, based on # of layers left. But sometimes the higher layers may have less material to print, so it may take less time.

The time estimated by Cura (or the slicer of choice) is what I usually go by, and it is usually fairly close.
 
sooo......I didn't look at the estimated print time when I rendered a new model earlier today.
View attachment 42053 😲

Oh My Gosh Hello GIF by kate spade new york
Cabin Fever Reaction GIF
.....:sleepz:
Well it "only" took 17hours 26mins.
This is the largest volume and longest print time I have done yet.
It came out extremely well.
It is a desk organizer/pen holder/ business card holder.
I slightly modified the original model from Thingiverse.
I added the two extra individual holes on left and right sides.
Those are for my two very favouritest pencils.
I'll probably put candy in the bucket instead of writing sticks. 😋

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I also finished this today...
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5-6 hours of printing all the components.
Another hour with a Dremel to add dimpling and wear marks.
Another 2+/- hours of painting.
Installed it at my front door just now.
The white semi-opaque handle parts glow in the dark!
 
Well it "only" took 17hours 26mins.
This is the largest volume and longest print time I have done yet.
It came out extremely well.
It is a desk organizer/pen holder/ business card holder.
I slightly modified the original model from Thingiverse.
I added the two extra individual holes on left and right sides.
Those are for my two very favouritest pencils.
I'll probably put candy in the bucket instead of writing sticks. 😋

View attachment 42071 View attachment 42072

That would be great on the design counter for the frame shop!
 
That would be great on the design counter for the frame shop!
Yeah, I'm already planning to print a few more to scatter around the store and shop areas.
Next I'll try it with different filament colours.
I think it would look great printed with multicolour filament like this:
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I love the rainbow silk filament (I use Sunlu brand, but same idea) The only downside is that the color changes take a while, and will only show like the picture there if you are printing a bunch of them at once.
 
I love the rainbow silk filament (I use Sunlu brand, but same idea) The only downside is that the color changes take a while, and will only show like the picture there if you are printing a bunch of them at once.
I think I see what you mean.
The colour transition would be fewer variations per vertical inch if a print were extruding less filament per layer.
Fairly small prints (or tall but thin prints) would have relatively fewer colour transitions than a large or "high volume" print.
Unless I were to print several items simultaneously in order to layout much more filament per layer.
Did I get that right?
 
I also made this recently:
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It's a 5:1 ratio measuring cup for making small batches of starch paste.
I made it from scratch using TinkerCad.
The volumes of the cups are not precisely calculated, but close enough for my application.
I figured I didn't need actual precise units of measure, only the 5:1 ratio matters.
I'm going to say it is 5 metric Grumbs of distilled water to 1 metric Grumb of powdered starch. 🤓

I used it IRL just this morning. The mixture was perfect!
It makes enough paste for hinging several small to medium-sized items, or a few larger items.
Much less waste of starch powder over mixing far more than I need for only a day or two of hinging.
 
I think I see what you mean.
The colour transition would be fewer variations per vertical inch if a print were extruding less filament per layer.
Fairly small prints (or tall but thin prints) would have relatively fewer colour transitions than a large or "high volume" print.
Unless I were to print several items simultaneously in order to layout much more filament per layer.
Did I get that right?
Exactly!
 
Well it "only" took 17hours 26mins.
This is the largest volume and longest print time I have done yet.
It came out extremely well.
It is a desk organizer/pen holder/ business card holder.
I slightly modified the original model from Thingiverse.
I added the two extra individual holes on left and right sides.
Those are for my two very favouritest pencils.
I'll probably put candy in the bucket instead of writing sticks. 😋

View attachment 42071 View attachment 42072
20220506_162824.jpg

Here it is at my design counter.
I've printed a second one for my office desk.
 
I have 4 of the printers going now to print Grumble giveaway swag for Framecon. (facemask earguards, stamp coil dispensers, etc)
It will be in limited supply, from the support team at the show. Stop by and say hi!


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(yea I realize THE is missing. oops!)
 
I made a template for a framing project to mount 8 wooden eggs.
I made this template to make marking the holes I will cut in a layer of foam board to make cradles.
(I know this would probably be easier with a CMC)
I don't have a CMC, but I do have a spiffy 3D robut. 🤖
Later, I will post details of the project as I construct it.
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I've been trying to learn Fusion 360 on and off for several months now and have been struggling with it so I keep going back to Tinkercad. I designed one using Tinkercad (first photo) but I wanted to round the corners off and it was difficult to do. So I ask my son, who learned to use Fusion 360 in his Engineering class in Highschool, to design it on Fusion360. It took him less than five minutes to create the design in Fusion 360(second photo). Here's the printed result. The printer had several hickups that made the filament clump up but it was still usable. What are possible causes of the filament clumps?
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I taught myself Autodesk's Fusion 360 about 4-5 years ago with their Free version. It was rather easy for me to get the basic down. I think Tinkercad is a product of Autodesk so the logic should be similar. I never liked the Googles CAD program Sketchup. I dropped it for my lack of ability to det a handle on it.
 
I struggle with Fusion 360 as well, but have used it a few times for some simple designs (and putting logos on things)

That print almost looks like a partially clogged nozzle, loose belt, loose carriage, or a temperature problem. The quality should be much smoother, IMO. Is that at 0.12 resolution?
 
I've been trying to learn Fusion 360 on and off for several months now and have been struggling with it so I keep going back to Tinkercad. I designed one using Tinkercad (first photo) but I wanted to round the corners off and it was difficult to do. So I ask my son, who learned to use Fusion 360 in his Engineering class in Highschool, to design it on Fusion360. It took him less than five minutes to create the design in Fusion 360(second photo). Here's the printed result. The printer had several hickups that made the filament clump up but it was still usable. What are possible causes of the filament clumps? View attachment 42302View attachment 42303View attachment 42304View attachment 42305
Nice build, very useful tool holder. :thumbsup:
I just tackled your problem of creating rounded corners in TinkerCad.

TK has a control for "radius" of square objects.
But it rounds all sides, you can't limit what parts are rounded that way.

Here's my solution:

1- Use an half-circle to cut a hole in a square, this will create an arc "cut out" shape.
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2- Place the "arc cut-out" at the corners of a slab, turn them into "holes", and merge all the shapes. This will give you rounded corners.
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3- Duplicate the arced slab, rotate and align.
TK08.png
 
I struggle with Fusion 360 as well, but have used it a few times for some simple designs (and putting logos on things)

That print almost looks like a partially clogged nozzle, loose belt, loose carriage, or a temperature problem. The quality should be much smoother, IMO. Is that at 0.12 resolution?
I used 0.18
 
With a 0.4 nozzle? Usually they suggest 0.12 (high quality), 0.16 (dynamic quality), 0.20 (std quality), 0.28 (low quality) But the suggestions could vary, depending on the machine and stepper motors ability.

Are you hearing any clicking/slipping from the extruder while printing?
 
I think we probably printed enough stuff to give out at the Grumble's Framecon booth. Stop by if you would like one, and to say HI to the team! G stamp dispensers (they hold coils of stamps), and face mask ear relief guards will be free of charge, while supplies last. With the show and city of Worcester asking attendees to wear a mask(but not mandatory), these will probably be popular!

G Tees will also be for sale, while supplies last, at the vendor show.

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Mike, I got inspired by you and Andy's
(yours and Andy's? ) (Andy's and yourses??) *Stupid English* 🙄 awsome 3D prints.

First your Baba Yaga house, then your giant pirate ship inspired me to attempt another big print.
My lil' robut was working almost continuously for 30+ hours to make this:
 

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We have that one, too. Andy had me print about 20 houses like that, but he ended up making all of his own for a game he was running. (From the pink or green foam stuff)

This is a small sampling from just one of his setups. (NOT 3d printed)


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Prime first or it'll bleed
 
0.4 is fine but yea its more abrasive. nozzles are cheap about 0.75 each.

I use a lot of the Sunlu brand.
 
Yea the default (Creality) firmware has a lot of quirks, doesn't save settings to the board (saves it to the sdcard), doesn't show long filenames or much info on the print screen, etc.

The new version (from a second developer) is up since 3 days ago, but only in an uncompiled format. Hopefully they have pre compiled versions posted soon :)

Calculating completion time is not an exact science, either. It likely averages the future layers on the past time, based on # of layers left. But sometimes the higher layers may have less material to print, so it may take less time.

The time estimated by Cura (or the slicer of choice) is what I usually go by, and it is usually fairly close.
Mike, I'm in the process of preparing to install JyersUI firmware update.
Do you recommend Default, ManualMesh or UBLNoProbe?
What should I know about the grid size?
 
I use the default version, and I do not have an ABL on my machine.
 
It is good as it is. it just improves the amount of information on the screen, and saves the settings to the motherboard instead of to the SD card. It fixes several quirks and bugs in the factory firmware, including the ability to display long file names.
 
Mike, I got inspired by you and Andy's
(yours and Andy's? ) (Andy's and yourses??) *Stupid English* 🙄 awsome 3D prints.

First your Baba Yaga house, then your giant pirate ship inspired me to attempt another big print.
My lil' robut was working almost continuously for 30+ hours to make this:

I made a teeny tiny house to practice with before painting the big house I printed a few weeks ago.
I need to work on my detailing.
The little one is about 1-1/4", the bigger one is just over 4".
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A vendor sent me a new product for evaluation and review. It's a new type of filament that has 2 colors combined within the entire roll. The color combination follows right through the nozzle, and has an interesting result. One side of your print will have one color, the other side will have the other. They are now selling it in several color combinations, and here is my initial test print:

Eryone matte blue/purple PLA Filament

Design is a 44 inch long articulated long-tailed lizard from PA1MAKER bought from Cults3d

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A vendor sent me a new product for evaluation and review. It's a new type of filament that has 2 colors combined within the entire roll. The color combination follows right through the nozzle, and has an interesting result. One side of your print will have one color, the other side will have the other. They are now selling it in several color combinations, and here is my initial test print:

Eryone matte blue/purple PLA Filament

Design is a 44 inch long articulated long-tailed lizard from PA1MAKER bought from Cults3d

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That is interesting.
I suppose if one knows really well how the print pattern will be mapped, one could create designs that use this split filament to great effect.
 
It's good for things like vases, with a deeper section and a surface section.
 
I ran a print overnight using the new JyersUI install.
It worked extremely well.
I'll post a photo later this evening.
I wish I had thought to do a "before and after" print for comparison.
 
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