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What are you 3D printing today?!?

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Mike Labbe

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Ah they got wise and raised the printer price to $214. I'd still go with Comgrow for $223 if buying today.

If shopping on an Amazon Business account, you may also be able to stack coupon code OPENFIFTY to take $50 off $150 minimum order. (valid June 21 and 22 only)

If you pay the above with a DISCOVER card, Discover is giving an additional $40 off $100 (as a statement cash back credit) (or 6% cash back/credit with Amazon card)

So it could possibly be $223 on sale, less $50, less $40 or a final of $133. ha (if the above works)
 

Nikodeumus

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Prime day insane deal. Ender 3 v2 (newest version), for cheaper than the original. Almost too good to be true at $168 shipped. ha

Manufacturer also has them on sale today, for $228, but it may take a month from China.
Comgrow has them on sale for $223 through Amazon, which is a vendor I trust - where I got mine 3 years ago.
Getting this stuff through Amazon makes sense because it comes in a day or two, and is fully returnable. When you have to return something like this to China, the postage is about $240 (more than the product costs)

View attachment 38665
From Haosegd $168 Amazon product

From Comgrow $223 Amazon product
That same printer from practically every vendor on Amazon.ca is $400CAN :shrug:
 

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I heard that Canada canceled Amazon Prime Day, due to Covid concerns? I thought that was an April Fools joke when I read the story. Can you confirm?
 
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Nikodeumus

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I heard that Canada canceled Amazon Prime Day, due to Covid concerns? I thought that was an April Fools joke when I read the story. Can you confirm?
 

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It looks like you have it dialed in very well!
 

Nikodeumus

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Thanks, I'm getting the hang of it.

Models that are continuous through an entire layer are working pretty well.
I'm getting a little bit of "elephant foot" on some prints, I need to make adjustments to prevent that.

Models that have lots of gaps on a single layer are stringing quite badly.
I still need to make adjustments to the retraction settings to eliminate that...
RPG mini.jpg

I might paint this mini just as it is. Paint the strings white to make it look like she has been captured by a spider creature. :D
 
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The stringing might be due to the temperature being a few degrees too hot, or even a filament quality issue. If you changed retraction in the past, it may be dialed up a bit too much to be pushing extra filament through - which then strings out of the nozzle when it moves on.

I havent touched the default retraction or other settings, except the E steps when I put the new direct drive assembly on.

Humidity IS a problem for PLA, but I've never experienced it personally. Some of my PLA is almost 3 years old. If it gets too much humidity you'll see bubbles in certain areas, from the moisture hitting the heat.

I have a few rolls sitting around (dining room floor. ha), but I dont open the new ones until I need to. The new ones come vacuum sealed with dessicant, and stay dry.

pla1.png
 
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Nikodeumus

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The stringing might be due to the temperature being a few degrees too hot, or even a filament quality issue. If you changed retraction in the past, it may be dialed up a bit too much to be pushing extra filament through - which then strings out of the nozzle when it moves on.

I havent touched the default retraction or other settings, except the E steps when I put the new direct drive assembly on.

Humidity IS a problem for PLA, but I've never experienced it personally. Some of my PLA is almost 3 years old. If it gets too much humidity you'll see bubbles in certain areas, from the moisture hitting the heat.

I have a few rolls sitting around (dining room floor. ha), but I dont open the new ones until I need to. The new ones come vacuum sealed with dessicant, and stay dry.

View attachment 38808
A few rolls! o_O
I have been resisting the urge to buy every kind of filament available.
But....now that I see what you've got, maybe "just a couple more rolls" is OK for me.
What kind of self-respecting 3D printer would I be if I didn't have a slew of different filaments, right? ;)

Thanks for the tips.
I haven't tried anything to address stringing yet.
I'll try dropping the nozzle temp a couple of degrees first.
Then I'll switch to my second roll of filament, to see if it performs any differently.
Besides, everything I've done so far has been with "BLAH grey".
It's time to have fun with colours! :D
 

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Vendors keep sending me free or almost free samples. I'm not going to say no! haha

I've been asked to test and review extruders, spool holders, hot ends, a belt tensioner, bed clips, nozzles and hot end socks, a uv curing box for our resin 3d printer, resin, a whole lot of filament rolls, fans, cctv cameras, thermal printers, and some other stuff. I must be on some kind of list, because I keep getting emails asking me to do so. They usually refund the cost, regardless of the review. (I wouldnt do this if I couldn't say what I wanted/the truth) In any case, that's where the small pile mostly came from. ha

What temp are you using? I cook at 208/55 for most stuff. But every printer is a bit unique in what it likes.

I've probably used a dozen rolls of grey or more, because Andy was painting the items. One vendor sent me a bunch of white, so i'm using that for things he paints now.
 

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What temp are you using?
While I was having trouble with successful prints I was trying 208/55 for some things and 210/60 for others.
After trying all sorts of different things I got my bed level dialed in pretty good (still not perfect), I have been sticking with 210/60 for almost all my latest successes.
I will go back to 208/55 to see if that helps control the "elephant feet" and stringing problems.

I must be on some kind of list, because I keep getting emails asking me to do so.
That's awesome you get to try out all that stuff. How do I get on that list???😄

I had to stop printing during the heatwave we have had.
Even during normal weather, the temp in the small room I print in increases by a few degrees while the printer is running.
During elevated temps that room became an unbearable oven while printing.
Now that outdoor temps are more comfortable I can fire it up in the evenings and indoor temps aren't so bad.
 
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That additional heat could actually be the issue.

I could get you in to get some buy one get one free or discounted filament deals if you want. You have to work in Chinese time (12 hours apart from NY time) to talk with them, but theyre pretty good about it. There are insider promotions every couple days. Sometimes buy 1 get one, sometimes $10 or $12 for a roll, etc.
 

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Tinkercad-SnapShot-WoodturningChipDeflector.jpg

Designing a woodturning chip deflector so wood chips won't go flying into my face. Even though I wear a face shield, it still makes me flinch when chips flies towards my face.
I'm using Tinkercad to design. Images in the superimposed red boxes are inspirations I found on the web. Images in the superimposed blue boxes are the first 3D printed prototype with a scrap plexi shield dry fitted. I'm redesigning it to round the corners and to slant the groove that holds the plexiglass shield. The orange and red shapes on the upper left corner or the design platform are different design iterations. I kept a few small scraps of Optium Museum plexi that I think may be ideal because of its scratch resistant, non-glare & anti-static properties.
 

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View attachment 39006

Designing a woodturning chip deflector so wood chips won't go flying into my face. Even though I wear a face shield, it still makes me flinch when chips flies towards my face.
I'm using Tinkercad to design. Images in the superimposed red boxes are inspirations I found on the web. Images in the superimposed blue boxes are the first 3D printed prototype with a scrap plexi shield dry fitted. I'm redesigning it to round the corners and to slant the groove that holds the plexiglass shield. The orange and red shapes on the upper left corner or the design platform are different design iterations. I kept a few small scraps of Optium Museum plexi that I think may be ideal because of its scratch resistant, non-glare & anti-static properties.
That's very clever. Nice designs.
 

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This is the design/shape I decided to keep. I made one for a 10mm square shaft (black) and one for a 12mm round shaft (red) View attachment 39079 View attachment 39080
I noticed from your previous screen shot you were using TinkerCad.
I just downloaded it and played around a little.
It's really easy to use.
I even figured out how to import my own SVG files to convert to STL files, and then imported that file into Cura and saved it as gcode ready to print.
Literally only took 15-20 minutes to learn how to do that.
Seeing your chip deflectors come out so well has me excited to make my own creations.
 
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Yesterday I bought a second 3D printer: Amazon product

Creality 3D Printer CR 6 SE Leveling-Free, Silent Motherboard, Meanwell Power Supply, Tempered Glass Plate and Dual Z-axis 235 x 235 x 250 mm​


I haven't finished the kit for the first one I bought but as will be explained in the next post, I have to print some parts for it before I can finish. Amazon tells me it will be here on Monday but it hasn't marled it as shipped yet so that may be iffy.
61qonDdD2uL._SL1000_.jpg
 

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Adventures in 3D Printing - Kit Version. A review and status report.

I purchased a Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit last September.

original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.jpg


Pesky customers that keep ordering frames have kept me from finishing it. I originally said I wanted to have down for Christmas. I should have specified which Christmas. Long story short, I finished the assembly and have had to take it all apart. The adventure is described below.

First a note on kit quality.

The kit comes with a very complete printed color manual. There is also a complete manual online with large pictures of everything. You can see the complete manual here: Prusa Knowledgebase https://help.prusa3d.com/en/tag/mk3s-2/

One thing nice about the online manual is that you can leave comments. This is very nice when you run into a roadblock and can read how others have overcome it. After a while I learned to read the comments before reading the instructions for a section or reading them together. One of the bad things is that there are difference between the printed manual and the online manual. Sometimes the steps are in a different order. Other times the procedures differ. It doesn't seem like the online is the latest version. Sometimes I had to interpret between the two versions to get things done.

Bottom line - would I recommend the kit to others just based on the assembly. That depends. For a rank newbie; probably not. For an experienced maker, it depends. Read some of my comments here and decide for yourself.

A few negative comments to start.

1. There are a few cases where screws are screwed directly into plastic. Just a few but if you have to redo it, that screw may not hold a second time.

2. Most of the screws do have a nut on the end but in most cases the nut sits inside a nut sized depression inside a printed part like this one.

bca92bfa02e707fc.jpg


Sometimes the nut doesn't fit and you have to do a bit of carving to get it in. If you try to tighten it too much it will tear out the plastic holding the nut in place. If you every want to remove it you will be SOL.

3. The procedure/hardware to tension the belts for the y and z axis seem flaky. For the X-Axis, the part below has a tensioning screw (shown in the manual but not in the online manual). It is on the top of this piece at a 45 degree angle and you screw it in to provide tension with the circled screws below being loose. The first time I did it, it broke open the part. I currently have the part super glued together, but will be printing a new part when I get my new printer.

9aa9fd9680f97962_painted.jpeg



4. The x-Carriage shown below busted and the bottom screw doesn't have a nut to hold it in place for tightening.

1fe6cf8e9962b7a3_painted.jpeg


I got the entire printer assembled and went to start the testing when I realized that I had installed the extruder assembly backwards. In the pic below it isn't obvious which way it goes and I did it a$$backwards. The second pic is how it should be but that pic wasn't in the instruction section for the extruder so I got it wrong.

DSC_5359.jpg

DSC_5406-1.jpg


So I have had to take the entire (almost) thing apart. When I get the new printer, I will print the two parts that are bad and reassemble the entire mess, hopefully right this time.

Bottom line, would I buy the kit again? I think so. A dead technocrat once said "The journey is the reward". I sure know a bunch about my printer and hopefully the journey will have been worth it. Another report will be coming. There are probably some other hiccups but I have bored you all enough for now.

BTW, all the printed parts are available as STL files. Handy since I have to re-print two parts.
 

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Wow that is one of the ones I'm considering, from Creality. I'd like something with a larger bed.
 

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I noticed from your previous screen shot you were using TinkerCad.
I just downloaded it and played around a little.
It's really easy to use.
I even figured out how to import my own SVG files to convert to STL files, and then imported that file into Cura and saved it as gcode ready to print.
Literally only took 15-20 minutes to learn how to do that.
Seeing your chip deflectors come out so well has me excited to make my own creations.
Tinkercad is one of the easier ones to learn & use. It's requires a different mindset in terms of design process than the other softwares I've tried. I use it like I'm playing with Lego blocks but with the ability to slice off parts or "merge" blocks together. It's great for relatively simple shapes.
 
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Many of those towers dont come with the code built in to actually change the temperature. Usually you see a big difference in quality from one end to the other. Did you notice if it ramped the temperature down at each section?
 

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Today, I'm fiddling around printing some chameleon penholders.
20210806_191924.jpg

Earlier in the week it was some gaming dice holders....

20210801_093045.jpg

..and groot
20210731_063401.jpg

Groot isnt perfect. I'm having a hard time getting the microswiss tuned in with the quality I had before, but getting better with the pen holder. I'm still working on it
 

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Today's picture is from our "other" 3d printer, which is a RESIN printer (Anycubic Photon S). Andy mostly uses it. He made a new dragon, which is about a foot wide and had to be printed in about 5 pieces. It's pictured on top of one of our resin curing boxes, which uses UV light to "cure" the resin. There is a regular miniature included, printed at the same time, to show perspective in size. He will be painting all of these.

(picture taken on top of blackstone griddle outside, but we use it indoors!) hah

1628430981858.png
 

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When you print a cube 20x20x20 mm programmed, what do you measure then to see the tolerances?
Peter, can you clarify the question?
Do you mean, when a 20x20x20 cube is printed, how close does the actually printed object measure to the programmed size?
I've never done a test of this, but I am quite new to 3D printing.
Mike is our resident expert, he will likely have useful information about this.
I assume it will depend on a number of factors; accuracy and resolution of print settings, how well tuned the printer is, different kinds of filament types vs. resin printing, etc.
 

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I use a caliper and its usually dead on accurate

1628542467286.png
 
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I'm hunting to add a new 3d printer to the family, and get these printers a sibling with a larger print area.

The Ouyang TwoTrees Bluer Plus is one that I'm looking at. It has the larger bed size of 300x300x400mm, auto leveling, filament out sensor, dual gear extruder, twin cooling fans, belt tensioners, PEI build plate, silent controller, and a 4.3" color touch screen. It has a lot of features built in, and is a brand I have not yet tried.

Amazon product

I hope to order a new printer this week!

Mike
 

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I'm hunting to add a new 3d printer to the family, and get these printers a sibling with a larger print area.

The Ouyang TwoTrees Bluer Plus is one that I'm looking at. It has the larger bed size of 300x300x400mm, auto leveling, filament out sensor, dual gear extruder, twin cooling fans, belt tensioners, PEI build plate, silent controller, and a 4.3" color touch screen. It has a lot of features built in, and is a brand I have not yet tried.

Amazon product

I hope to order a new printer this week!

Mike
That's a nice rig. How many 3D printers do you have now? Are you collecting the whole set?😆
 

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This will only be our third, at the house. The Creality Ender 3 primary will be turning 3 years old this week, and has served 24/7 faithfully. (and will continue doing so) We also have an Anycubic Photon S (Resin printer) This new one looks like it has all the bells and whistles, and will keep itself level. It looks to be very comparable to the Creality CR-10S Pro, but with some extras - and a better price.

I need to set up a dedicated room for these printers, because 3 years in the dining room has outstayed it's welcome for the Ender 3 :) I can convert my home office/spare bedroom and put some tables in for the printers.
 

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This will only be our third, at the house. The Creality Ender 3 primary will be turning 3 years old this week, and has served 24/7 faithfully. (and will continue doing so) We also have an Anycubic Photon S (Resin printer) This new one looks like it has all the bells and whistles, and will keep itself level. It looks to be very comparable to the Creality CR-10S Pro, but with some extras - and a better price.

I need to set up a dedicated room for these printers, because 3 years in the dining room has outstayed it's welcome for the Ender 3 :) I can convert my home office/spare bedroom and put some tables in for the printers.
If you sell a few printed pieces at work you could claim the space on your business tax right? :p
Miracle On 34Th Street Christmas Movies GIF by filmeditor
 
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A trivial 14 minute print but one that's important to me. A Drill Stop.

I have a dedicated drill with a 5/32" bit for pre-drilling screw holes in narrow mouldings. My present setup as show below is the typical tape on the drill bit. Its more of a suggestion than an actual stop as the tape moves. I printed just one of the set; the 4mm which is very close to 5/32". Sizes are available from 4mm (5/32" ) to 13mm (1/2").

PrusaPrinters https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/68442-quick-setup-drill-depth-stop-no-tools-required

drillStop1.jpg

drillStop2.jpg

drillStop3.jpg

Drill-Depth-Stop.jpg
 

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A trivial 14 minute print but one that's important to me. A Drill Stop.

I have a dedicated drill with a 5/32" bit for pre-drilling screw holes in narrow mouldings. My present setup as show below is the typical tape on the drill bit. Its more of a suggestion than an actual stop as the tape moves. I printed just one of the set; the 4mm which is very close to 5/32". Sizes are available from 4mm (5/32" ) to 13mm (1/2").

PrusaPrinters https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/68442-quick-setup-drill-depth-stop-no-tools-required

View attachment 39306

View attachment 39307

View attachment 39308

Drill-Depth-Stop.jpg
That's such a great idea!
I'm adding that to my build list.
 

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We have a new family member for the printer farm, as of a couple hours ago! ha She just printed her first test print, and it came out great. The printers need a dedicated room, and this new one doesn't fit in the usual spot. Don't mind the MESS! :)

It literally took only about 10 minutes to assemble, and came about 90% assembled. This Two Trees Bluer Pro has a lot of built in features, like auto levelling bed, magnetic PEI printing surface (which I've never worked with before), belt tensioners, filament out sensor, dual gear extruder, dual fans on print head, ethernet wiring connections, large color touch screen, etc. I'll finally be able to print some of the larger items that I couldn't do before.

I'll have to give it something "real" to print overnight, instead of just a test cube.

Mike

1628903219457.png
 
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Wow, that's not a mess...
For me, that's organized.:cool:

We do everything but 3D.
Large format printing, laser cutting, large format mounting and laminating, framing and design of course and some installations.
Sitting on over 500 frame jobs right now......:shutup: (not actually "sitting" on them....:icon11:)

The 3D looks very cool and I hope you have fun with it.
Keep posting pictures.:thumbsup:
 
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And Mike can always grab a glass of wine if his printing goes wrong... 😁
Wine, spline. To heck with the glass. Given the speed that these things print, better grab the box of whine.

some-day-my-prints-will-come.jpg
 

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It's not quite "dialed in" yet, but this was my first print (while I was sleeping) I since changed the retraction settings, to make it smoother.

1628965492611.png
 
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