What are you 3D printing today?!?

[Nikodeumus]

Oh its easy. Just pick ENDER 3 for the profile (all Ender 3's are essentially the same printer). 208 is a good temperature for the nozzle, and 55 or 60 for the glass bed. 0.2 is a decent print quality (or 0.12 if you want it to be best/slower quality). Whether or not you want SUPPORTS is the only question. Most things you download will give instructions for supports, resolution, and the recommended density/infill. For most things I have the density at 13.

The adafruit I believe is just a USB driver, if you wanted to connect it to a PC. Not needed. I run mine with a small linux server (Raspberry Pi with Octoprint), but a small memory card will work well too.

Thanks Mike!
I made adjustments you suggested, and watched a CURA setup Youtube vid with a few more tweaks.
Here's the improved print resolution comparison.
First print on left (very noticeable banding), improved resolution on right.

 

[Mike Labbe]

This morning's print. This is a charger to hold my watch, when sleeping. I have an inductive charging pad coming in today (amazon), that will side inside the wrist, to charge the watch.

 

[Nikodeumus]

Well, I've had a little more success with printing some basic items.
However, I am a bit frustrated at how finicky the machine is at starting a print job.
I will complete a print, then clean the surface and set up for a new print, and it simply won't run it.
I stop the command, fiddle with settings, check the bed level, etc.
Still won't print the item that was successful just minutes ago.
I get frustrated turn it all off, cool it down, clean and level it again.
Program a different model to print, and off it goes no problem.
But then the bed adhesion is bad, and I have to start all over again!
I'm at about 8 successful prints out of at least 20 attempts.
I am learning a little bit each try, and am happy with results so far.
It just seems very random whether the items will print or not.
I've learned about using glue sticks to get better adhesion and tried that, but it's a pain to clean it off every time.
I have not installed the upgraded leveling knobs and springs, nor the upgraded metal filament nozzle.
Maybe those will help?

 

[Mike Labbe]

If it wont move, it could be a bad memory card. A bad memory card can cause all kinds of issues and the one they provide is probably worth $2

Once you get that resolved, and how to level the bed properly, EVERY print will be fine. I re-level every 10 or so prints. I also mist it with a small amount of aquanet hair spray, which helps keep it on and lets it release well too. I've never tried glue sticks.

I dont suggest ANY upgrades until you learn to use it. What it comes with will work fine, for at least the first year. Yours came with almost all important upgrades included. (Mine did not, but now is equal)

 

[Nikodeumus]

If it wont move, it could be a bad memory card. A bad memory card can cause all kinds of issues and the one they provide is probably worth $2

Once you get that resolved, and how to level the bed properly, EVERY print will be fine. I re-level every 10 or so prints. I also mist it with a small amount of aquanet hair spray, which helps keep it on and lets it release well too. I've never tried glue sticks.

I dont suggest ANY upgrades until you learn to use it. What it comes with will work fine, for at least the first year. Yours came with almost all important upgrades included. (Mine did not, but now is equal)

A bad card never came up when I was researching this problem.
Thanks for the tip!
I'll get a new memory card ASAP.

Do you level by sliding a sheet of paper under the nozzle?
I got a file to run that moves the head around to several locations around the bed.

Creality Leveling Cycle GCodes by psdesign

Here are my files to run an automated cycle for leveling, just run gcode as a print and the nozzle will home then touch the bed at all 4 corners then center stopping for a few seconds, then repeat speeding up each time. If you want to learn how I use these for perfect bed leveling see...

www.thingiverse.com

It lowers the nozzle to the set z-axis, then holds position for a few seconds.
Then you can do the paper slip trick, wait for the nozzle to move to the next position and so on.
The program runs this pattern several times, giving plenty of opportunities to tweak the bed level really well.

I read about the hairspray trick too.
I didn't want to spray stinky chemicals right beside my computer/entertainment area.
My printer is literally about 3 feet from my Lazy-boy chair I sit at while computering/streaming/gaming.
If I removed the glass to spray it, then I'd probably have to level it each time?
The glue seems to work OK. Although some print attempts failed even with glue, and some worked fine with a completely clean bed, so...
I also read that some people lightly sand the bed surface to make it more grippy.
Not sure I want to do that unless I got an extra one to experiment with.
If I can't get reliable adhesion I'll try the hairspray trick too.

 

[Mike Labbe]

A bad card never came up when I was researching this problem.
Thanks for the tip!
I'll get a new memory card ASAP.

Do you level by sliding a sheet of paper under the nozzle?
I got a file to run that moves the head around to several locations around the bed.

Creality Leveling Cycle GCodes by psdesign

Here are my files to run an automated cycle for leveling, just run gcode as a print and the nozzle will home then touch the bed at all 4 corners then center stopping for a few seconds, then repeat speeding up each time. If you want to learn how I use these for perfect bed leveling see...

www.thingiverse.com

It lowers the nozzle to the set z-axis, then holds position for a few seconds.
Then you can do the paper slip trick, wait for the nozzle to move to the next position and so on.
The program runs this pattern several times, giving plenty of opportunities to tweak the bed level really well.

I read about the hairspray trick too.
I didn't want to spray stinky chemicals right beside my computer/entertainment area.
My printer is literally about 3 feet from my Lazy-boy chair I sit at while computering/streaming/gaming.
If I removed the glass to spray it, then I'd probably have to level it each time?
The glue seems to work OK. Although some print attempts failed even with glue, and some worked fine with a completely clean bed, so...
I also read that some people lightly sand the bed surface to make it more grippy.
Not sure I want to do that unless I got an extra one to experiment with.
If I can't get reliable adhesion I'll try the hairspray trick too.

I usually remove the glass to spray it (lightly), and also to wash it with hot water in the sink every 10 or so prints.

I used to do it with paper at first, and a similar file to yours that moved it to 5 places. These days, I just do it by eye. (but often use a test pattern and adjust as it is printing)

I use a file within this project, called LEVEL ONLY ENDER 3

Ender 3 Refined Bed Level Test & Calibration by cyron52

Refined Bed Leveling & Calibration These GCODE files are my go-to for bed leveling. I expanded on elmerohueso code by adding a number of features to make leveling more accurate and pain free. Put these files on your SD card and use to test and refine your bed level, especially before major...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Mike Labbe]

Printed a larger Steampunk Octopus today, this time using purple silk filament.

Printed in place as one piece, all joints move.

 

[Mike Labbe]

Well, I've had a little more success with printing some basic items.
However, I am a bit frustrated at how finicky the machine is at starting a print job.
I will complete a print, then clean the surface and set up for a new print, and it simply won't run it.
I stop the command, fiddle with settings, check the bed level, etc.
Still won't print the item that was successful just minutes ago.
I get frustrated turn it all off, cool it down, clean and level it again.
Program a different model to print, and off it goes no problem.
But then the bed adhesion is bad, and I have to start all over again!
I'm at about 8 successful prints out of at least 20 attempts.
I am learning a little bit each try, and am happy with results so far.
It just seems very random whether the items will print or not.
I've learned about using glue sticks to get better adhesion and tried that, but it's a pain to clean it off every time.
I have not installed the upgraded leveling knobs and springs, nor the upgraded metal filament nozzle.
Maybe those will help?

I'm just following up to see how you are making out with the printer, and with the issue you had?

I know you said that you wanted to do something similar with yours that I am doing, with the minis and tabletop scenery. If you want any of the ones I posted pics of, let me know.

 

[Mike Labbe]

Follow-up to the skull 3d dice tower print that I posted last week, after Andy did some faux finishing.

 

[Nikodeumus]

I'm just following up to see how you are making out with the printer, and with the issue you had?

I know you said that you wanted to do something similar with yours that I am doing, with the minis and tabletop scenery. If you want any of the ones I posted pics of, let me know.

Not much progress this week.
I fired up the beastie yesterday morning.

I tried to run the advanced leveling file you directed me to. Won't run the file with or without print.
It did run a different leveling file I have, one that just moves the head, not any actual extrusion. That works OK.

I tried to print other files I have had success with before. Won't print.
The manual controls for moving the head work fine, the auto home functions works fine.

The machine appears to function mechanically.
The hot filament will extrude when I feed it by hand. No clogs.
It did successfully print about 8 times, so I don't think the Z-axis is out of whack terribly.

Is there some vital step I am neglecting?

I am going to try a new memory card as you suggested previously.
I haven't gone down the interwebs rabbit hole to trouble shoot this.
If the memory cards don't' help, then I'll do more research.
It may need a call to tech support?

 

[Mike Labbe]

It could be that, or a problem with the slicer program settings. (such as the wrong printer profile).

If there are any of my pics/posts above that you want to try, let me know, and I'll send you the file I used through my setup. Even though I have an original Ender 3, and you have the new 2021 model, they're essentially the same machine. The files should work fine, and may shed some light if it is the slicer settings - or a physical hardware problem.

 

[Mike Labbe]

I emailed you a test file.

 

[David Waldmann]

I should probably start a new thread, but are there any people on here doing laser engraving?

 

[Mike Labbe]

Today's prints...

DARTH VADER pen holder using PLA+ material

Rainbow silk stamp coil dispenser

 

[Larry Peterson]

So when are one of yous going to 3d print a picture frame?

Or a picture frame stand

Or something else framing related?

 

[Larry Peterson]

If any of you are looking for some 3d picture frame inspiration, here are a bunch: "picture frame" 3D Models to Print - yeggi https://www.yeggi.com/q/picture+frame/

And some more: Picture frame 3D Printing Models | CGTrader https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/picture-frame

 

[Nikodeumus]

Today's prints...

DARTH VADER pen holder using PLA+ material
View attachment 38525


Rainbow silk stamp coil dispenser
View attachment 38526

HA! I have that Darth Vader figure saved to my list of projects on Thingiverse.

 

[Nikodeumus]

If any of you are looking for some 3d picture frame inspiration, here are a bunch: "picture frame" 3D Models to Print - yeggi https://www.yeggi.com/q/picture+frame/

And some more: Picture frame 3D Printing Models | CGTrader https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/picture-frame

Thanks, those look like alot of fun. Will try some out.

 

[Larry Peterson]

If I ever get mine finished, I will try some of those. Pesky customers keep ordering carp so progress has been slow. Currently about 50-60% done.

 

[Mike Labbe]

HA! I have that Darth Vader figure saved to my list of projects on Thingiverse.

I don't suggest the PLA+ type filament. It's twice as sturdy, but was a difficult print. Regular PLA works best, IMO. I have a roll of red PETG coming Monday for evaluation by the vendor, which is supposed to be very difficult to deal with. I haven't tried it in the past, but it is even stronger than PLA+. (I believe it is actual plastic, not a cornstarch based product - like PLA) Darth Vader is actually holding a Lifesaver Software pen, in that pic! (from WCAF)

The stamp dispenser is a prototype future gift from the grumble, for those who sponsor/donate in the future. It has our name on the side you cant see. It needs more work, because the text isn't great, but I'll keep at it.

 

[Larry Peterson]

I just checked on Etsy and there are a few folk selling 3d printed frames. Most are a bit crude but a couple are nice. Here is one of the nicer ones.

And some of the simpler ones,

 

[Mike Labbe]

If I ever get mine finished, I will try some of those. Pesky customers keep ordering carp so progress has been slow. Currently about 50-60% done.

View attachment 38529

Nice! Dual stepper motors. I'm considering a third printer, also, that will do much larger prints. That may not happen until black Friday, but it will. I need to dedicate a spare bedroom in the house for these printers, because having one in the dining room (with so many spools of evaluation filaments and bought filaments) is getting old really fast.

 

[David Waldmann]

Got my Ender 3 Max today and am having trouble leveling the bed. All the searching I've found does not address my issue.

With the bed adjusted to the absolute highest positing (springs completely extended and leveling wheel spins freely) there is still about 1/16" space between nozzle and bed.

I found a couple places suggest moving the Z-Axis limit switch, but mine is not adjustable. I guess I could use a Dremel and elongate the holes but I really don't want to do that.

Am I missing something simple?

Here's a pic of it with the leveling knob at about halfway. Is it possible the nozzle isn't screwed in all the way?

 

[Mike Labbe]

Is there a HOME button on your control panel? It will go down and touch the limit switch, to determine the low point, and then sit in the correct position. Yours isnt the same as mine, and I don't recall what the original was like. (I replaced my controller, and my screen with a color touch screen. I also control it remotely with Octopi/Octoprint, via web browser and phone app)

You could also calibrate the z steps, but it doesn't sound like she's in the correct "home" resting position.

I would suggest taking the glass OFF the first time you do this, in case it is so tight that it would break the glass.

 

[David Waldmann]

Yes, there is a Home position. That's where it stops. It's on the limit switch and won't let me manually move the Z-Axis negative.

 

[Mike Labbe]

Yes, there is a Home position. That's where it stops. It's on the limit switch and won't let me manually move the Z-Axis negative.

You may want to check with tech support. Those Z switches usually have some play where you could lock it in at a higher or lower position. Can it move down to the lowest point and be re tightened? Does the limit switch itself look bent, where it is up too high and sensing prematurely? If unsure, send me a pic and i can tell from that.

There may also be a Z step or Z calibration setting in the menu where you can adjust the home position default. (change the off set amount) It should ultimately be so the springs are about half way tightened, once you get it dialed in. That SHOULD have been done already at the factory.

 

[Mike Labbe]

Some potentially helpful info, to adjust this:



Once you get the Z and springs calibrated.....

Any video from CHEP is also very educational. This is the way I used to do it when I started, and I just do it by eye now.

 

[David Waldmann]

You may want to check with tech support. Those Z switches usually have some play where you could lock it in at a higher or lower position. Can it move down to the lowest point and be re tightened? Does the limit switch itself look bent, where it is up too high and sensing prematurely? If unsure, send me a pic and i can tell from that.

There is virtually no play in the limit switch, and no other position to mount it without drilling and tapping new holes.

 

[Mike Labbe]

You can def adjust the z-offset from the console. Don't drill any holes!

First video is great.

 

[David Waldmann]

Some potentially helpful info, to adjust this:



Once you get the Z and springs calibrated.....

Any video from CHEP is also very educational. This is the way I used to do it when I started, and I just do it by eye now.

I'll take a look at these when I have some time maybe tonight. Thanks,

 

[Rick Granick]

Shayla posted this on another thread, but I thought it might be appropriate here too:

 

[Mike Labbe]

Today's prototype. Grumble stamp dispenser

 

[Mike Labbe]

I've been wanting to try this new Copper Silk PLA Filament, and they sent me a roll to evaluate. I like it a lot!

I also ordered a direct drive print extruder assembly today, from Micro Swiss. It puts the filament feed motor right on the print head, so it will be more accurate. I should have it next week. That company has a 35% off sale today only, and I've wanted to do this for a while.

 

[Jim Miller]

Hey Mike, have you made any 3D-printed object mounts, such as for plates or coins, perhaps? I'm thinking that they could be shaped something like the prefabricated Mighty Mounts, except custom-fitted and in colors to coordinate with the object.

Can you speculate about whether the 3D-printed mounts would be as strong or stronger than the clear plastic ones that fatigue over time?

 

[Mike Labbe]

I heard about those being discontinued.

I haven't yet, but it is doable with the right software and material. What I normally use (PLA) is corn starch based and probably not best or strongest for such a thing. There are other printable materials, like ABS, that are much stronger. They are also available in clear.

I'm upgrading the printer this week with a Micro Swiss direct drive extruder/hot end assembly, so it can do a better job of some other materials like the (finicky) flexible filament. (think: cell phone cases, soap molds, etc)

 

[JFeig]

Jim, that could be done; however the alignment of the layers can be tricky for FFF printers for maximum strength. I have a spool of PP (polypropylene) that is more flexible, but have not been very successful in printing yet.

Do you have a design in mind? I also have a SLA resin printer to work with.

Mike, that Micro Swiss head is a champ.

 

[Jim Miller]

...Do you have a design in mind? I also have a SLA resin printer to work with.

Well, not exactly, but how about something like this?

 

[Nikodeumus]

I have to say, the learning curve on getting this 3D printer working well is steeper than I had hoped.
I am making improvements each time though.
Here's one of todays better prints:

Qapla'

 

[Nikodeumus]

These Mini Mjolnir are about 40mm (1.5 inches) tall.
Printed the two heads and the the two handles as separate items in one gcode.
My first successful multi item print!
They are a little crunchy around the edges, but nothing a little sand paper can't clean up.

 

[JFeig]

like these test samples? They are not sanded smooth.
I think the bent piano wire (round, square of rectangle - steel or brass) is a better alternative.

 

[Mike Labbe]

It looks like you're getting the hang of it! Having a level bed is a major step, and then laying the things out to be efficient, to reduce the need for support.

I'm printing another fantasy scenery house for Andy, currently, which will take just about 4 days. (Finishing the last piece, the roof, now)

The Micro Swiss assembly is out for delivery today. This will eliminate the bowden tube, and move the filament extruder motor right to the print head. (Improving accuracy, and any flex from the bowden tube). Hopefully some night this week, I can swap it out and see if it makes any difference! Supposedly this is better for TPU Flexible filament, which is something I want to experiment with. (branded soap molds for a friend who has a soap company, cell phone cases, etc)

Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers

Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder is a drop in system for CR10 / Ender Printers No modification required, simple plug and play No printed brackets or sandwiches Features: Dual-drive train Hardened tool steel, CNC precision cut gears Adjustable filament grip Easy filament loading Short, highly...

store.micro-swiss.com

 

[Jim Miller]

like these test samples? They are not sanded smooth.
I think the bent piano wire (round, square of rectangle - steel or brass) is a better alternative.

Yes!
And yes, the wire probably would be better for mosr jobs.

 

[Rick Granick]

Well, not exactly, but how about something like this?


View attachment 38598

Great idea, Jim. I can see the pegboard principal working well for the bottom-most mounts, but I think the top ones would have to be shaped differently, with the curled end facing the opposite way.
What do you think?

 

[JFeig]

With 3D printing, once you have the settings set up, all you do is insert the program and press "start" and then walk away. With CAD design, there is a little more to consider.

Remember that this was a test.

 

[Jim Miller]

Great idea, Jim. I can see the pegboard principal working well for the bottom-most mounts, but I think the top ones would have to be shaped differently, with the curled end facing the opposite way.
What do you think?

That was a quickly-drawn example, but the "pegboard principle" works well when the load is against the peg as planned. I believe even the top mounts on an object could be placed under tension to impose the load that way, but I have not actually done it with plastic mounts. Formed rods are anchored similarly, though.

 

[Mike Labbe]

I installed the MicroSwiss today. A test print is running now.

 

[Nikodeumus]

Mike, how many clips does your glass bed have?
My Ender came with only two, one in the center along the front and back edges.
I noticed in that last photo you have a clip closer to the corner.
Do you have one in each corner?
I wondered if having clips in each corner might ensure my bed is more level?
I am having better success with prints that are mainly in the center, but less success with prints that extend to the edges (like the test gcode you sent me).

 

[Mike Labbe]

Mine came with the kind you get at an office supply store (4). I bought some replacement clips, like the ones included with new printers (4). I only have 2 of those on so far, with 2 old ones in the back. While the new ones are smaller, theyre a pain to remove. The cheaper office supply binder clips squeeze and come right out easily. I keep them front and back, about an inch in from the corners. it seems like the best place not to get in the way of the initial head priming (line) or any designs that are round and may need the center. Glass should always be level, but adjusting the 4 dials is what makes it plum.

 

[Mike Labbe]

Prime day insane deal. Ender 3 v2 (newest version), for cheaper than the original. Almost too good to be true at $168 shipped. ha

Manufacturer also has them on sale today, for $228, but it may take a month from China.
Comgrow has them on sale for $223 through Amazon, which is a vendor I trust - where I got mine 3 years ago.
Getting this stuff through Amazon makes sense because it comes in a day or two, and is fully returnable. When you have to return something like this to China, the postage is about $240 (more than the product costs)

From Haosegd $168 Amazon product


From Comgrow $223 Amazon product

 

[Mike Labbe]

Prime Day Filament Deal. This is the brand I most often use.

$14.24 shipped for White PLA from Jayo

Amazon product