What a sneaky trick, you wouldn't believe

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tobogon

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Posts
13
Loc
Bristol, PA
So no one told me untill now that if you cut a staple in half and put it in the back of a metal frame that you would close the gaps on the front of the frame! Why aren't people just talking about this all the time!? I still am!

If you don't know this trick, sit down. :popc:
If you notice gross gaps, cut a paper stapler's staple in half so you have a little corner. Loosen the screws on the back of the offending corner, hold the frame closed and place the staple piece under the inside lip of the channel. Then tighten the screws again and observe your glorious join!
 
Interesting.

I’m assuming that you mean the staple should go between the channel and the back plate?

If so, I can see how that might work.

Next time I have a problem I'll try it.
 
Welcome Tobogon. I'm glad you've learned a trick you can make use of. But, I guess my question is why are you getting these gaps to begin with?
 
OMG!!! O M G!! You found out and then wrote this on the INTERNET!?! :eek:

The Framing Secrets Police will be along any time now to take away your dues card and wipe your brain of any knowledge of the "half staple trick" and how to do the secret handshake.

Oh, the shame of it all.

Next she will be revealing how to demand a better chop from her supplier...:faintthud:

did you also find out about sticking one of your business cards just under the leading rail when you chop the metal, it will do the same thing? :icon11:

Both are the same thing.... either you are receiving bad chops, or there is something stinky in the rail alignment of your saw. Cure the cause, not bandage the problem. THAT is the real secret. :thumbsup:
 
When i have a problem, i put the plate with the heads of the two screws faced down on a scrap piece of wood and hit the inside of the "L" with a hammer. It works. ;)
 
I used to buy tapped corners and back plates from a local supplier and at one point they were coming in with a slight bend in the tapped corners. I do my own chops and they fit together quite nicely thank you, but when I tighten these bent corners the back of the frame kicks open. I switched sources and got flat ones again. Now the ones from that source are bent and cause the same problem. It bothers me to use the top of my underpinner for an anvil. Who supplies tapped corners without the bend????
 
I will have to agree that the hardware sometimes is to blame, and not how it is cut.
 
Thank you for the tip. Hopefully I'll never need it, but if I do I'll have the knowledge, freely given.

So why didn't anyone mention the sander from United to "fix" bad corners? Yes, if the supplier gives you bad corners complain, but when customer comes in for a rush, HAS to have it no ifs ands or buts, then this tip will be useful!
 
ahohen1 said:
When i have a problem, i put the plate with the heads of the two screws faced down on a scrap piece of wood and hit the inside of the "L" with a hammer. It works. ;)
Click to expand...

I was just about to post that little gem of wisdom.;)
There aren't many problems that can't be solved with a hammer.
 
ahohen1 said:
When i have a problem, i put the plate with the heads of the two screws faced down on a scrap piece of wood and hit the inside of the "L" with a hammer. It works. ;)
Click to expand...

Sounds similar to the method used to squaring a carpenter's square. Only I use a nail set and smack it on the side needed to open or close the two legs of the square. Never tried it with a backing plate, just carpenter squares!
 
Hi, Tobogon. Welcome to the Grumble!
Thank you for sharing this idea with us.
 
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