Wavy diploma

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framinzfun

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Aug 28, 2002
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893
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eastern pa
As a rule, I do not drymount diplomas. However, I have one in now that is one of the waviest pieces of paper I have ever seen. I kept it flat for a while, but it still looks horrific. I know if I ask the customer, they will default to whatever I recommend. Is there any other option I have to make this thing look flatter without drymounting it? It just looks terrible as it is.
 
I've tried using minimal heat in the press and letting it cool flat. I hesitate to dampen it, since I'm afraid of the moisture reacting weird with the ink or something. Is there a way to use moisture without risk to the paper and ink?
 
How about .............a HOT STEAMY SHOWER??

You know.....take it in the bathroom......get it really hot and steamed up...then press itbetween release paper and glass......:shrug: :D

Works to get wrinkles out of dress..........and shirts......;)
 
What about mounting with Artcare Restore?
 
framinzfun said:
I've tried using minimal heat in the press and letting it cool flat. I hesitate to dampen it, since I'm afraid of the moisture reacting weird with the ink or something. Is there a way to use moisture without risk to the paper and ink?
Click to expand...

Hmmm... what is minimal heat?

What kind of paper is it? Are you sure its not sheepskin?

Are you weighting it?

How old is it?
 
Jan- good call re: sheepskin possibility.

We have a real vellum in the shop right now from a University in Cypress. It will wave unless mounted but I would prefer to frame in a way that will minimize the waviness.

When I started framing, a significant proportion of the diplomas we framed were on vellum. Mounting vellum is an acquired skill. It is not something to practice on with a customer piece. Also, since mounting vellum is a wet mounting process, the friability of the inks used in the printing and signing of the diploma needs to be determined before starting.

The most important thing to know about vellum is DO NOT APPLY HEAT OF ANY KIND. You may permanently distort the shape of the paper. Vellum and a heated dry mount or vacuum press should never meet. An iron is worse.

Practicing "conservation" or attempting "conservation processes" on a customer piece without prior experience has significant risks. There are ways to transfer moisture to a piece of vellum without "dampening it" and the transfer of moisture needs to be a very slow, controlled process. Nonetheless, you also run the risk of having inks "bloom" because they absorbed the moisture as well and swelled causing a "fuzzy" edge on the lettering.

There is a book out by Plenderleith and Werner that might be a good place to start if you want to know about the handling of vellum.

http://www.amazon.com/Conservation-Antiquities-Works-Art-Restoration/dp/0192129600 There is someone selling this book used for $14.99. This book new is at least $50 and I have seen it for far more. I believe it was first printed in 1971 and while the information and processes were state of the art at the time, some practicing conservators may find that some of the techniques and methods are a bit dated as newer materials and practices may have been developed.
 
And Rob's dead on about the vellum.

The best thing to do (if they're still around) is call the institution that the diploma or degree originated and find out exactly what it is you're holding.

Heat on sheepskin is a huge no-no, too.
 
Well, someone grabbed the $14 and the $17 copies. Was it a grumbler? There is still a used copy @$25.
 
Permanent mounting is an option if you and the customer are willing to take the risk. If you know what you're doing, the risk may be minimal, but there is always risk in permanent mounting.

A DCO (direct contact overlay) mount may be a better choice, unless the document has heavy texture, thermal engraving, or 3-D features that could be damaged by direct contact. Pressing the document between acrylic (Museum Optium Acrylic preferred) and a padded/spring-loaded mounting substrate would keep it flat and avoid changing it in any way. It is an easy mount to make, fairly economical, completely reversible, and more visually attractive than most alternatives.

DCO instructions are in the Grumble archives, or you are welcome to contact me directly at artframe@att.net.

If you like the concept, keep in mind that glass should never be used in direct contact, unless a secondary insulating glazing layer is provided.
 
janetj1968 said:
I dunno why. I always think of vellum as goatskin or calfskin...because I call sheepskin, sheepskin :) ... where vellum can be any type.

(I guess this is where my line of thinking came from)...
http://www.statemaster.com/encyclopedia/Vellum

So sheepskins are all vellums, but all vellums aren't sheepskins ;)

In my experience, I've seen sheepskin wave worse than calfskin.
Click to expand...

I wonder if one could make vellum out of snake skin? It might be great for the diplomas of some of the attorneys out there.:D
 
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