WALLBUDDIES - just LOVE them!

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Sherry Lee

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jun 25, 2002
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2,228
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Phoenix, Az.
As I was framing away last night, I put my Wallbuddies on my last big metal frame and muttered to myself, "GOSH, I LOVE THESE THINGS!"

And then I made a note to be sure to share this with TG & HH's because it is so easy to 'bash' a product. Well, I want to 'praise' a product!

I've never had customers whom used Wallbuddies complain - actually a couple have mentioned how easy the hanging process was for them.

Not only does it make sense that the stress on frame corners is greatly reduced, but it makes quick work of finishing a project! Personally, I like not having to deal with the "correct" hangers and messing with wire.

Thank you Daryl for coming up with this great product!!
 
I second that comment. Wall buddies are automatic on a work order. If they want wire it is extra. In 5 yrs I have never had a piece come back or customer complain about wall buddies.
 
"never had customers whom used Wallbuddies complain"

I've had 2 come back & want "good 'ol" wire(both 'older' guys) & 1 who claimed she couldn't get the frame to level(never could figure THAT one!)!---makes that about 1 every 1.5 yrs. so they got wire & I resold the wb's to some who could 'figure it out'!!!!!:shrug:
 
OK, so I have a question for you wallbuddies aficionados....when you finish a piece with wallbuddies, do you give the customers two sets of courtesy hangers?
 
Most of our customers "Love 'em" too. Only a handful have returned for wires because they have log homes where walls are not flat, they have silk wallpaper and only want a single hole and some are just too lazy to use 2 hangers.

Courtesy hangers don't work with wallbuddies. You must use the set of 2 hangers provided or wallanchors with screws as illustrated on the dustcover label. At least the courtesy hangers that we use will not work with them.

We also point out the installation instructions on the dust cover. We had one customer make a 45 mile oneway trip because they couldnt figure out from which direction to put the nail into the hanger.
 
I've never used wallbuddies...sorry. But I do have a question for those that use them exclusively......Do you use them on artist works, especially works to be shown in a gallery or a show that states "wire only, no saw tooth type hangers"?
 
PaulSF said:
OK, so I have a question for you wallbuddies aficionados....when you finish a piece with wallbuddies, do you give the customers two sets of courtesy hangers?
Click to expand...

Special wall hooks come with every set of WallBuddies. And if you buy them in packaged sets, screws are included, too. I suggest buying them in bulk, which saves money.

By the way, PPFA guidelines and the FACTS standard for hanging both say that a wired frame should hang from two points on the wall, not by one hook. There's a current thread about that somewhere around here.
 
I've also found that the brass hangers with the hardened steel nails work well with WallBuddies, but the cheap silver courtesy hangers are too flimsy and weak.

I wire most of my work, but WallBuddies are absolutely wonderful with certain types of work and for hanging in certain environments.

- Large pieces such as Jersey Boxes or anything over 24X30 or so.

- Horizontal long pieces.

- Anything hanging in an area with lots of traffic which could knock the frame out of kilter.

- Hallways where a wire hanger allows the top to arc out from the wall a bit. WallBuddies hang the work flat against the wall and prevent accidental knocking out of level.

Also, for those unaware, WallBuddies are available for metal or wood frames.
 
Ah, thanks for all the info. I haven't used wallbuddies yet, but I've been meaning to order some and try them out. Maybe this is the time.
 
Paul ...be aware that when you order the WallBuddies in bulk, they do not come with the little wood screws you need to attach them to the frame but do come with hangers. I generally use a 3/8" #4 either flathead or wood screw ...either one works since the aluminum WallBuddies conform easily to the screw head.

1/4" #4 would work too.

I always put the directions which come with them on the back of the piece and measure the distance between the two arrows on the hangers and write the distance on the directions to make it easier for the customer. Hardened steel nail hangers with brass hooks or WallBuddies hooks are always included no charge.

In case anyone wonders, I charge $ 1.70 for a saw tooth, $ 2.00 and up for screw eyes and wire depending on size, $ 5.00 for strap hangers and wire, and $ 10.00 for WallBuddies installed.

I always use the maximum amount of screws on WallBuddies and justify the higher price due to the additional time it takes to install them, put directions on the back, measure and instruct the customer in their use. The actual installation of the hangers isn't difficult, but I have to chase those little screws around!
 
mik said:
I've never used wallbuddies...sorry. But I do have a question for those that use them exclusively......Do you use them on artist works, especially works to be shown in a gallery or a show that states "wire only, no saw tooth type hangers"?
Click to expand...

You should try WallBuddies, Mik. They are beloved by customers and frame fitters alike. They cost more, but have a lower installed cost than wire & screw eyes. You can check your own labor savings with WallBuddies vs. wire by a quick time study . In my shop, the three of us averaged a labor savings of about 1.5 minutes per frame using WallBuddies. At $1 per minute that adds up in a hurry, in favor of WallBuddies.

I don't think any particular hanging system is suitable for use "exclusively", but WallBuddies are standard; our choice unless there is a reason to use something else -- such as an art exhibition's rules.

There are previous threads on hanging hardware in the archives, and you would surely find useful information about all kinds of hangers -- including WallBuddies -- there.
 
I love them but am the only shop in North America who's customers hate them with extream prejudice.

I also know of only one piece that that I have framed and has ever fallen off a wall. It was hung with wallbuddies and the customer moves his pieces often and had long lost the hanger I gave him.

I still use them when there just isn't a good alternative like really wide narrow pieces. Also some bigger heavier things get Wallbuddies. I'd say I use them 5% of the time.
 
We love wallbuddies and use them on almost all large pieces. Only had one returned for wire, because they already had one screw in a brick wall above a fireplace. However, I do think the hook is not the greatest design. Seems to confuse some customers, even when they are given proper instructions.
 
To learn more about WallBuddies.....

http://www.wallbuddies.com/

I always discuss using them with the customer during the design process, showing them an example. That way, for the occassional 1% of my customers that are just not mechanical at all, they can insist on wire - saving me from having to change out hardware at a later date.
 
I love Wallbuddies, too. I use 'em in my shop at least 75% of the time, usually on any frame size that's 20 x 24 and up. I have also had a few customers come in with large framed mirrors for re-wiring, and when I show them the Wallbuddies system, they enthusiastically agree. Ten dollars and 5 minutes later, they are smiling as they walk out the door carrying their mirror, all ready to be safely and securely re-hung. I buy and stock the smaller Wallbuddies in bulk, and I keep a few sets of the larger ones in the individual retail packs. Cost me 1.75 a set, and I charge 5.00, plus 5.00 dollars labor for the mirror repair. Folks are happy to pay it.

The only complaint I have about Wallbuddies is if you tend to move the art around a lot, as we do with in-house framed art in our gallery, is if you are not careful when re-hanging,the wall hanger can rip right through the backer paper. This has happened on numerous occasions. I have resorted to adding some acid free framers tape over the backer paper just below the Wallbuddies, as a paper reinforcement. I carefully trim the tape, and apply it neatly. I wish the Wallbuddies manufacturer would supply a ready made reinforcement patch or something, so the job doesn't look jury rigged. I explain to my customers what the tape is for, so they don't think I'm selling them some sloppy workmanship fixed with tape.

Anyone else have trouble with the paper backer ripping? Maybe I'm just not being gentle enough when hanging the art .....:confused:
 
You could cut a triangle of matboard under the WallBuddies and just attach it with the screws as a unit.
 
I sometimes have the same problem, Keith. I've found the best remedy is to make sure the frame package is filled out so that there is little or no gap between the backer board and the dustcover.

Often I will also put a double dustcover on work if the job warrants it or a long patch of the same black kraft I usually use for a dustcover to reinforce the area where the hooks could puncture. I attach the patch strip with either #M Photomount spray or roll on some of Frank's Fabric Adhesive and iron.
 
I've had a number of customers not happy with Wallbuddies - they move their art around and just want one nail in each hanging place. Wallbuddies would be fine if all their frames were the same width - no going to happen.

I tried them in the gallery and had the same problem - the art gets moved all the time.

Don't mix up the nails - small WallBuddie nails don't work with big WallBuddies and big WallBuddie nails don't work with small WallBuddies.
 
Keith J said:
...The only complaint I have about Wallbuddies is if you tend to move the art around a lot...is if you are not careful when re-hanging,the wall hanger can rip right through the backer paper....
Click to expand...

That can happen with wire and other hanging systems, so it is not a WallBuddies problem, it is a dustcover problem.

I suggest filling the frame, so there is no air space under the dustcover paper. Also, we use Lineco's blue alphacellulose paper, which is much heavier and more durable than typical Kraft paper. I've not experienced the problem.

In lieu of using something better for the dustcover, you could place pieces of matboard under the WallBuddies, as Ron suggested, or just apply pieces of 2" wide plastic packing tape at those spots on the paper.
 
Another hanging idea for those of you who do installations for hotels, restaurants etc.

Wallbuddies + 3M Dual-Lock tape (no.3540, heavy version)

Attach 3-6cm strips of Dual-Lock in the lower corners of the frame. The frame is easy to uninstall if you know the technique but it's still secure. This has been our default security hanging system for two years and there are no reported thefts so far. Dual-Lock is very strong, do not use too long strips since it will be too difficult to open if needed.

Using Wallbuddies volume hanging is much more convenient as with AMS security hangers. With wallbuddies you don't have to be so precise when drilling. If you drill 3-5mm away from the intended spot - no problem. Also two holes instead of three is 33% less work.

- H a n n u -
Wallbuddies Fanclub Finland
 
Jim Miller said:
That can happen with wire and other hanging systems, so it is not a WallBuddies problem, it is a dustcover problem.

I suggest filling the frame, so there is no air space under the dustcover paper. Also, we use Lineco's blue alphacellulose paper, which is much heavier and more durable than typical Kraft paper. I've not experienced the problem.

In lieu of using something better for the dustcover, you could place pieces of matboard under the WallBuddies, as Ron suggested, or just apply pieces of 2" wide plastic packing tape at those spots on the paper.
Click to expand...

Jim, I use the blue Lineco paper as well. Where the problem stems from is human error ....when I first started using Wallbuddies, I wasn't trusting that I had properly secured the sawteeth on the hangers, so I was constantly reshifting the frame, lifting it up and slipping it down onto the hangers, and many times I would lift too high, then the hanger would rip through the backer as I brought the frame down. I took Ron's advice and used a small piece of matboard underneath the Wallbuddies, then I screw the whole package together .....it looks good, and works great! Thanks to all of you for your advice!:beer:
 
Wow, a fellow Finn on the Grumble! Hello, Hannu! My last name is Jokinen, which is pretty common in Finland ....my father's parents were both born in Helsinki, and came to the USA in the very early 1900's. My grandfather was a carpenter and furniture builder, and built a beautiful free standing little building to house his sauna in his back yard on Long Island, New York. Neighbors would look on with puzzled faces as he would walk out of his house in his swim trunks in the dead of winter, and proceed to his sauna house! I have fond memories of that place!

Someday I hope to come to Finland to visit, to see my family heritage. Maybe I'll sell some Helsinki travel posters in my frame shop!:D
 
Just when you think you've seen it all...

Hannu, thanks for sharing your suggestion about using 3M Dual Lock with WallBuddies for security hanging. Quick, easy, cheap, and effective -- what a great idea!

This is another worthy example of what I call "security by deception". That is, anyboby who knows how could remove the frame from the wall. But without knowing the hanging method, it would take a bit of time and perhaps luck to figure out how to do it without taking a chunk of wall with it. Some of my shadowbox constructions work that way, as well.
 
Jim Miller said:
Hannu, thanks for sharing your suggestion about using 3M Dual Lock with WallBuddies for security hanging. Quick, easy, cheap, and effective -- what a great idea!
Click to expand...

You're welcome Jim. Another tip: staple down the Dual Lock piece that is attached to the frame. Wood frames are porous and the adhesive of Dual Lock may let go over time. To the wall it usually sticks like ####, especially painted walls and smooth surfaces, vinyl wallpapers may some occasions be a different story.

AMS wall brackets and metal security brackets can also be used instead of Wallbuddies. That's how we started using Dual Lock in installations: according to the specifications of Aker Yards and Carnival Cruise Line in their cruise ships. If you think this method is too "un-secure", try to steal a cabin picture in your next Caribbean cruise ;)
 
Keith J said:
Wow, a fellow Finn on the Grumble! Hello, Hannu!
Someday I hope to come to Finland to visit, to see my family heritage. Maybe I'll sell some Helsinki travel posters in my frame shop!:D
Click to expand...

Good to meet you Keith! Remember to visit my sauna when you come to Finland. You're invited.
 
Hannu, you mentioned that the Dual Lock sticks like #### to wall surfaces, and that got me thinking ...

It seems that the Dual Lock fastener may be stronger than some wall surfaces. Is that an issue, or not? How do you get the patches of Dual Lock in the bottom corners unfastened, leaving the Dual Lock on the wall, without taking a chunk of wall instead?
 
Jim Miller said:
Hannu, you mentioned that the Dual Lock sticks like #### to wall surfaces, and that got me thinking ...

It seems that the Dual Lock fastener may be stronger than some wall surfaces. Is that an issue, or not? How do you get the patches of Dual Lock in the bottom corners unfastened, leaving the Dual Lock on the wall, without taking a chunk of wall instead?
Click to expand...

Your observation is right. Dual Lock fasteners offer five times the strength of standard hook and loop and especially wallpapers may tear if you try to pull frame bottom directry off the wall. The secret is using a wide flat-end screwdriver. Stick it between the patches of Dual Lock, turn 90 degrees or twist a little upwards and it’s released. Dual Lock is constructed of polyolefin stems with mushroom shaped tops and this style of unfastening doesn’t usually damage these stems at all. Always remember not to use too long pieces of Dual Lock. If you use SJ-3540 (width 25mm), 4-5cm piece is enough even with large mirrors. Another version we use is SJ-457D (or SJ-4570). It's clear, less agressive and thinner than 3540.
 
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