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v-grooves with a Fletcher 2100


Grumbler in Training
May 10, 2005
North West England
I am a new boy around here although I have been a "watcher" for some time. Please can anyone explain in simple terms how to cut a V-groove with a Fletcher 2100? Apologies if this is sooooo basic but I have not had any success at all! New to the framing game too - well 8 months new - and building up a small business which is going slowly but surely so far.
I am new to the Fletcher - got it second hand - but all seems fine so far.
Thanks in advance,
There is a universal attachment for the fletcher to cut vgrooves - check with your supplies vendor to see if they have them available for sale.

good luck and welcome to the grumble

Thank you Elaine - that has saved me a lot of time! I have been trying all sorts of ideas but with no success - now that I know that there is an "add on", I will start along another path. I haven't seen anything advertised anywhere though - neither by suppliers in the UK not by Fletcher themselves. Do you know if this attachment is shown on any websites?
Following Elaine's post, I did some GOOGLING and found articles on the Fletcher site, universal v-groovers - a stack of stuff. I didn't realise how much there was. Now to find a supplier in the UK - but don't reckon that will take long now!
Thanks again, Alan

Hopefully you found my article on this subject on the Fletcher-Terry Learning Center website. Here I wrote the article entitled, "A Closer Look at the V-groove". There is not an obvious link to this area from the main Fletcher website, but it is there, nonetheless. It illustrates several techniques as cut on an F-2200, but would obviously also apply to the F-2100, F-2000 as well.


Some people like the surface V-groove attachments, as they have been offered by a few different companies over the years. However I don't think you can beat the appearance of a well executed V-groove done on a properly adjusted machine, in the hands of competent framer.


Have fun and practice!

You don't need any attachment to do V-grooves on the 2100. Mark the mat to assure realignment of the dropout. Cut an opening. turn the dropout upside down and put the edge against the guide. then slice of about half of the bevel. Repeat for the other three sides. You can set the innermost pin stop on the guide, with a little experimentation, to give an easily repeatable position setting for the guide. Make sure the guide is parallel to the bar. When you have completed all four sides, tape the dropout back into the mat. Sounds complicated, but it is quite easy with a little practice. I did a lot of these on the 2100 before I got my Wizard.

Pat :D
I strongly agree with John's comments. After reading his excellent article, I used a couple of pieces of scrap to try his surface technique. I then asked a number of people if they prefered the surface grooves or deeper grooves produced using the cutout method. They almost universally voted for the deeper grooves.

I would also add that John's technique for surface grooves eliminates the need to purchase a universal groover and in my opionion is easier to use and produces better results (if you prefer the surface grooves). I have found the universal groovers difficult to calibrate.

The one thing which I am finding difficult - sorry - rephrase that - requires skill and technique - is not pushing the cutter all the way down. Surely, unless you are absolutely spot on, the depth of the cutter during the final slicing stage, will vary and produce an obvious error in the final result.


The angle of entry doesn't change, regardless of the pressure you apply hence your greatest risk is simply penetrating the mat all of the way. When using a very sharp blade, I have found little or no variation in the width of the groove using the surface technique although I was carefull about trying to be consistent with the pressure. I will say I could not achieve as clean a look as the drop out method.

I find the single edged blades give the cleanest cuts.

I learned how to make deep v-grooves from John years ago and his instructions work beautifully with practice. I've never tried the surface ones. I just don't like the look as well. If your mat cutter is well maintained and aligned, you can get good v-grooves every time. I check the alignment everytime I change settings. It's amazing how quickly it can get even just a little off an require adjusting.