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Can any one explain how to v-cut mats properly or point me in the direction of a site showing how to. I have been in the framing business for nearly two years and still have problems with it. So much as I don't do them if i can get out of it.
Any help would be appreciated.
4/ edges of mat blank free of "rag" from dull blade?
4/ machine square?
5/ remove slip sheet
5/ mat right against guide bar
6/ proper posture at foot of cutter
7/ piece of mat-scrap (same thickness)at the top of the mat blank? This allows blade deflection to occur before it enters the mat blank as you draw the head - eliminates hooks
Agreement with above except I do use a slipsheet. At least on my cutter, it works better. Only thing to add to Orton's seven points is seven more, and they all begin with "Practice".
Bryan ;
Orton's suggestions are correct no matter what method you use and I do them with the exception of I like MM use a slip sheet .I also use an alterative method taught by Bryan Wolf when doing any equidistant V-groove.
What you do is to make the cuts from the rear and tape each before proceeding to the next until you have made and taped all cuts. Then turn the mat over without changing the guide and cut the other half of the V .Make sure to start your cut at or just below the intersection of other cuts and don't press all the way down when making these cuts but just enough to complete the V(don't fret this will get easier with time).
It may be necessary to remove a very small square in the corners with an exacto knife but I think you will find that this method gives you a almost perfectly even groove since you don't need to reinstall the drop which can cause a very slight but noticable variance.
Bryan Wolf also strongly advocates that you check the straightness of your guide bar. There are various metods but what you need to do is place a mat at the btm. of the cutter and score it with the blade or mark it with a pencil against the cutting bar and then slide the same mat to the top of the cutter and repeat the process .The cuts/marks should match exactly or you will get a poor V.Another thing to check is if there is any play in the cutter head (Does it wobble as it slides). If there is then you can't be sure that the blade will go back at the same angle when ever you make another cut.
BUDDY
[This message has been edited by BUDDY (edited 04-10-2000).]
[This message has been edited by BUDDY (edited 04-10-2000).]
[This message has been edited by BUDDY (edited 04-10-2000).]
The Brian Wolf method that Buddy described is the one I have been using for about five years now. In addition to being easy, once mastered, it allows you to do almost any straight-line pattern your imagination can dream up. I myself do about 20 designs using this method (and a slip-sheet )
If you want a few of these designs, please e-mail me, and I'll send you a JPEG of a few of those designs.
Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
The "Brian Wolf" method is actually referred to as the Surface V-groove technique as opposed to the traditional V-groove technique.
As Buddy pointed out, your guide must be parallel for good mat cutting in general. To execute the "Surface V-groove", your guide has to be absolutely SPOT on (Means maybe better than normal). The Surface V-groove is actually the test you conduct to determine if your guide is aligned accurately enough to execute a Surface V-groove for a customer's mat.
The "Surface V-groove always runs exactly 1/2 the thickness of the mat, which also makes it a desireable technique.
Out of interest, the "Tradional V-groove" credit is usually given to Sean Hunt (Vermont) for pioneering this design element in the late 1970's, early 1980's.
John
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______________________________________ The Frame Workshop of Appleton, Inc. www.theframeworkshop.com
Appleton, Wisconsin jerserwi@aol.com
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From time to time when I had to cut mat without a good matcutter and when I want a smaller v-cut I would glue a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to a 10" x 3" x 3/4" flat piece of wood and sand the edges of the cutout and replace and tape in. This gives a fine line look.
Just another way to pet the cat...
[This message has been edited by framer (edited May 09, 2000).]
Very creative Framer! When executing a surface V-Groove I rarely use the guide and do it by eye, it is actually quite easy and you can easily vary the width of your groove to suit the job.
Ditto Lance, I was lucky enough to get my hands on an old Keeton mat cutter about 15 years ago, and with the accuracy of that machine, I usually don't use the guide, althogh, Brian Wolf told me at this year's Frame-O-Rama in NY that he prefers to use a (painstakingly accurate) guide. The guide DOES make the whole process easier, and if you're willing to take the time to calibrate it (and why wouldn't you anyway
) V-groove cutting can be both easy and fun!
---Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
PS: If anyone has a 60" Keeton they want to unload, I'd be very willing to buy it. I'm using a Fletcher for my 60" and I HATE HATE HATE it!
[This message has been edited by Bogframe (edited May 23, 2000).]
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