using Jyden chopper

CAframer

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Nov 19, 2003
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Orange County, CA
To remove blades take out the center bolt last ... this allows you to pivot the blade so that you can handle it more safely.

When installing new blade insert center bolt first for the same reason.

Use sharp blades ... have several sets.

Do not chop profiles with scoop backs ... they will almost always chip.

Forget MDF.

Some profiles that chip out at the back badly can be coerced to chop better by taping the back of the moulding with 3M Magic tape (or similar).

Chipping is less of a problem with newly sharpened blades.

Chop in small increments when moulding is hard.

For VERY hard moulding make sure the adjustment lever does not "jump" out of its final notch by holding up the adjustment levr with you right knee (hard to do but its a knack you can learn) or get someone to hold it for you.

Make sure rabbet supports are correctly adjusted throughout the chopping process (they will sometimes loosen and fail to support the rabbet).

Make sure moulding is held square to fence especially on the final "money" cut.

Make sure the pedal is adjusted so that blade travels fully ... after blades have been sharpened many times they will be narrower and therefore the cutting edge will not travel will stop higher than a new blade.

Hope this helps ...
 

Baer Charlton

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
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Andrew, why forget MDF?? :confused:

We have no problen with MDF. It's the HDF that give me the heebie jeebies and caniption fits.
fire.gif
 

diogenes

Grumbler in Training
Thread starter
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Aug 31, 2005
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From
Knoxville, TN
Thanks for the quick and helpful responses. I should add that it's actually a Hansen choppoer. My supplier's catalog listed it as a "Hansen Jyden" - but it's really a Hansen 8161. I concur with some earlier posts that the instructions for assembly are essentially useless..
 
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