Using Flash with Intergrated Framer

j Paul

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Posts
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Loc
Toledo,Ohio
Have any been able to succesfully use camera flash while using IF. I thought for sure that when we set it up in Jan that our flash worked thru IF. It doesn't now (will with other programs) Called IF tech support and we're told that the IF software doesn't support flash at this point and that you really don't want flash because of glare. Has anybody figured out a way around that.

My color rendering was much better when we first strated. I usually keep it set on florecent but white mats have a decidedly blue/grey tinge. Did adjust the compensation and seems better but still looking for improvement. Any suggestions, keep it simple I am not a techie.
shrug.gif
 
What kind of camera are you using and if it is a cannon then put your white balance on cloudy and try your exposure on 1+ . You can turn all the lights off and still get a good picture with the right combination of these two adjustments. Is youir distortion showing up in the print out or the monitor?.....
 
Using the camera's on-board flash will cause glare on most subjects which would render them unsuitable for visualisation. However, it is not too dificult to rig up a couple of studio flash units which will overcome this problem.

camerasetup1.jpg


If your camera has the necessary socket, you can use a flash-sync cable to fire the remote units, otherwise set the on-board flash to be permanently on and tape a piece of silver paper in front of the camera's flash which prevents direct illumination of the subject while allowing enough light to escape in the direction of one of the remote units to trigger its sensor.

This setup works fine with Pre-View which remotely controlls just about all the camera's functions, including flash. But I am guessing that it will work with any system that does not prevent you from manually setting the flash to be permanently on.
 
Originally posted by Est-I-Mate:
...If your camera has the necessary socket, you can use a flash-sync cable to fire the remote units.........
John,

I'm getting adequate results using the florescent camera settings currently, but have contemplated adding a dual flash setup as you illustrated. I'm assuming that the flashes are over riding any ambient light from the ceiling florescent units.

I like the small size of your units - what type of light output do they produce? Do you mind sharing brand and approximate costs.

I'm assuming that you have these wired - plugged into your 220v power. What about switching the on-off power? Please describe your setup.

Thanks,

John
 
We have found that taking pictures of the art, mat and moulding separately seem to work well.
If you have a darker piece of art the camera will focus on that and the surrounding mat will be darker. The same goes for the mouldings, if you have several light ones and 1 or 2 dark ones photo them separately.
 
John,

My flash units are branded Dynasun and were bought on eBay for approximately $60 each.

They are way too powerful for the purpose and, because these cheap units have no adjustment for intensity, I have had to blank out about 75% of each lens with a piece of card. Even so, the camera's lens has to be stopped down to almost its smallest aperture in order to produce the correct exposure. At this setting the ambient (fluorescent) light has little or no effect on either exposure or colour balance.

The units are plugged into the mains, and in the last six months have not been switched off. I have assumed that it is OK to operate them in this way as they are always cold regardless of how long they have been on standby.

Next time you are in England, pop over to Belfast, I would be happy to give you a demonstration.

I have just checked eBay and do not see the same units for sale at the moment, however there is a Chinese one for about the same price which has an intensity adjustment, and even a 150w modeling light.


dougj,

Have you considered coming off automatic and setting the exposure manually? Providing your lighting remains constant (not too close to a window), you may find that you can achieve better results in this way, and that you will be able to include all the frame elements in a single shot.
 
Est-I-Mate
Yes we have tried manual but we do have a window issue. We have found this to be the easiest way around it.
Thanks Dougj
 
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