United's Disc Sander...

[Julie-Tulie]

I just recieved United's Superior brand disc sander, and with a little help from Cliff, it is up and running...and it is FANTASTIC!
I know I sound a bit excited, but the corners that I have sanded and joined so far are absolutely PERFECT...I think that I will just touch-up sand every chop I get from now on...just to save time in the long run.
So far, I would recommend this to everyone who doesn't have one and wants beautifully joined corners...worth the money, really worth it!

 

[Cliff Wilson]

Yeah, before sander --- putty probably half my corners -- after sander -- MAYBE 0ne corner out of 100 frames and then only when dealing with a real warp problem!

 

[Bill Henry-]

Julie and Cliff,

Just curious, do you use a chopper or a saw for your wood miters?

 

[Cliff Wilson]

I use a saw. why?

But, I cut only about 2/3 of my frames.

I keep about 36 profiles in stock, order straight cut from AMPF and Studio, and buy short length if the order requires more than 10 feet, otherwise I buy chop.

Although I've gotten in the habit of sanding all miters, the original drive for the sander was due to sloppy chops from a couple of suppliers. Even normally very good vendors seemed to get a little careless during the rush at holiday time. Exactly when I couldn't afford to reorder! Sander elliminates that problem.

 

[Julie-Tulie]

I order all of mine chopped...sometimes they are good, but more times than not they are bad or could be better. Complaining doesn't seem to work too well, but this sander is great. Should have had one a long time ago.

 

[Bill Henry-]

Just curious, that’s all.

Everyone who has a sander seems to swear by it. I just wonder if it is the use of a saw that creates a need for the sander.

Perhaps, 80% of our wood moulding (and much less for metal) are chopped, too. When we first opened, I was disappointed at the quality of every vendor’s miters, but not so much at the lack of a true 45º, but, rather, with the slight “burr” on the leading surface that occurs when it was cut with a saw.

Because of that, we began to order (and continue to order) our chops 1/2” longer than needed and re-miter each rail with a chopper. That seems to get rid of the finish blemishes and trues up the miters.

Way back when, I was unaware that there were such things as a hand operated, miter sander. I am just trying to figure out if I would benefit by grabbing one since I am pretty happy with the miters (and the joins) that I now produce. Everything can be improved, of course, but I am trying to figure out if a miter sander would make my corners significantly better enough to justify the cost.

 

[Tillman]

Is it strong enough to smooth/true up the metal frames? I do a lot with them & they are not often cut clean enough.

 

[Jim Miller]

Originally posted by Tillman:
Is it strong enough to smooth/true up the metal frames?

The machine will sand metal as easily as it does wood, but you should use a silicone carbide sanding disk. Otherwise, sanding metal would wear out your sandpaper more quickly than wood would.

 

[Julie-Tulie]

Good to know, thanks

 

[Steven6095]

I think United may be getting some of my money when I get home

I am in the ordering chop boat too and just need a few positive reviews to buy one

 

[Jana]

How much is this sander? (I don't have the catalog here.)

 

[j Paul]

Originally posted by Bill Henry:
[QB] Just curious, that’s all.


Because of that, we began to order (and continue to order) our chops 1/2” longer than needed and re-miter each rail with a chopper. That seems to get rid of the finish blemishes and trues up the miters.

Bill, if you are ordering "Chop" and rechopping, if you get truck delievery why don't don't you order length and then chop? Even with waste it would seem to me that would save you money. We primarly chop our own, and unless I have most of a stick left it is always cheaper, if you are going to the labor of chopping yourself anyhow. Just a thought, but whatever works, right.

 

[Bill Henry-]

Bill, if you are ordering "Chop" and rechopping, if you get truck delievery why don't don't you order length and then chop? Even with waste it would seem to me that would save you money. We primarly chop our own, and unless I have most of a stick left it is always cheaper, if you are going to the labor of chopping yourself anyhow. Just a thought, but whatever works, right.

I agree with you wholeheartedly. I generally order length if I can. But, roughly 40% of our moulding comes from Larson-Juhl, and <u>they won’t deliver</u>, even though their truck whizzes by our door every Thursday. I made the mistake of telling their rep that I couldn’t make them my primary distributor because their prices on such things as glass, foam board, and mats were considerably higher than my other vendors. As a result of my complaints, on each and every invoice are the scarlet letters <font color=purple>“No Larson Delivery UPS only”</font>.

 

[Pat Murphey]

Bill,

If you do use Larson-Juhl for 40% of your moulding, I would suggest that you have a long conversation with the Distribution Center's manager. Truck delivery only to shops that make LJ their "primary" supplier is NOT LJ policy. That rep should be fired. My rep has instructions to only send new "Ponzio" samples, and I have shown her and her predecessor why much of my sales and profits are coming from other suppliers i.e. Munn Frameworks. I use them for some of my supplies, but not all. There has never been an issue about loyalty to LJ for truck deliveries. My view is that I allow them to compete for sales using part of my walls and that is all. They do pretty well, but they are not number one.

Pat

 

[Sister]

Originally posted by Bill Henry:

. . . their prices on such things as glass, foam board, and mats were considerably higher than my other vendors. . .

Their Artique line of mats are considerably cheaper, not higher than other paper mats. They cut smoothly and clean up nicely of smudges/scratches.