UNEVEN V-GROOVE

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J

Jason

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Posts
198
Location
Iowa
I am using a Fletcher 2100 to place a v-groove on a mat. My mat cutter is in full alignment. When placing the fallout back in the mat and taping it in place, I am noticing that my v-groove is not the same width in all places. Some parts look perfect while other parts look thinner. Any ideas? I am using cheater strips and pulling the cutting head back in one motion. I seem to be following all the tricks, yet the groove is not 100%. Any ideas appreciated!
 
Originally posted by Julie-Tulie:
Can I ask what it is you are calling "cheater strips"?
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Julie,

"Cheater Strips" are used when cutting a V-groove in a mat using the conventional method. By placing a small piece of matboard at the beginning of the cut where you trim the small slice from the face of the fallout, this helps retain the blade in a straight direction and keeps it from deflecting when it makes contact with the fallout.

Jason,

If the width variation is tapered from one end of the V-groove to the other, then this could be caused by a couple of things...

1) The guide is still not perfectly parallel to the clamp. The best way to check is using cuts for comparison (rather than pencil marks or measuring.)

2) You might be placing the fallout (when you trim the face), too close to the end of the clamp nearest you, where the clamp is slightly lifting on you causing this variation. Place the fallout towards the middle of the clamp when trimming where it is the flattest.

3) Your cutter head has some play in it either in the bearing adjustments, or the pivot assembly....check both.

If the width variation fluctuates within the middle of your V-groove, then it is more than likely the last item - number 3.

Regards,

John
 
You also have to remember to lock your wrist from the moment you plunge the blade into the mat till you take it out at the end of the cut. When you cut an opening or a v-groove, all movement should come from your elbow and shoulder. Your wrist should be locked into position and immobile. This eliminates the shimmy you sometimes get from a wobbly mat cutter head.
 
4) Consistent pressure on the guide bar.

There is a natural tendency to rock back slightly as you continue the cut toward you. This reduces pressure on the guide bar, so your cut is not the same from beginning to end.
 
I would agree with all of the above things mentioned...you have to be VERY consistant in EVERYTHING when and where V-grooves are concerned. Let us know how they turn out with the advice given...please?
 
Thanks for all of the advice. I will try the suggestions above and let you know how it goes.
 
I tried John's suggestion above and placed the board further up the mat guide and this seemed to resolve the issue. One other question, does it matter which type of Fletcher blades are used to achieve the best v-groove? .12, .15, etc. Which type of blade is best to use?
 
Originally posted by Jason:
...One other question, does it matter which type of Fletcher blades are used to achieve the best v-groove? .12, .15, etc. Which type of blade is best to use?
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For mat cutting in general or for creating V-grooves, this question will draw folks into different camps of opinion....thick, thin, double honed edge, single honed edge, etc. You'll find lots of debate in the archives...

One thing to remember, is that the Mat cutter manufacturers have blades outsourced and they offer them in a variety of styles to suit all of these opinions.

Give me a Fletcher 05-012, double honed, .012 thickness everytime! :D

Happy New Year Everyone,

John
 
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