Trimming FC/Gator without ridges

Create a Post
Richard Darling

Richard Darling

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Feb 24, 2006
Posts
1,540
Loc
Bozeman, Montana
There must be some trick that I don't know about. Whenever I need to trim a photo or something mounted to foamcore or gator, I get a ridge along the edge from the blade pushing material up as it goes in. Is there a trick I don't know about? There's got to be a way to make the edge flat.

I use a utility knife and a metal straight edge to make my cut. I use a fresh blade, and score first, usually planning on 3-4 passes to finish the cut, depending on the material.
 
I look forward to any good solutions that are posted here.
It's a pain for me to cut gatorboard with really perfect edges.
It wants to be more rigid and breakier.
 
I always end up having to sand the edges so I make up matboard sanding sticks with sandpaper and ATG - and try to sand them quickly before I slice my hands to ribbons. Nothing cuts worse than raggedy ole' Gator board.
 
Don't know how to reduce the ridges when cutting, but for the sanding sticks I skip all the labour of making my own and stock up on packages of emery boards at the dollar store. Usually sold in packs of 25.
 
The foam core is easy. Use a very new blade and hold the utility knife at a low angle. Cut all the way through in one cut. You need to dig into the underlayment. The gator is harder but again do your best to get through it in one pass. You usually need a second pass. The trick is to lower the butt of the handle so the leading edge of the blade is cutting the top layer befor the tip cuts through the bottom.

If you use a Fletcher mat cutter you will get pretty clean cuts with the straight cutting blade.
 
The other thing you have to do is watch the humidity; foamcore boards can soak up moisture which gums up the cut. I figured this out when I found an old offcut in a box from the previous shop. I had mounted a brand-new blade in the wall cutter but the cuts still grabbed and tore. Grabbed a brand-new matboard out of the box, clean as a whistle.
 
Foam center board up to 3/16" cuts easily on a matcutter or wall cutter with a fresh blade. Gatorfoam does OK, as well, but it is harder to cut. Be sure to use a good slipsheet. Boards thicker than 1/4" are more troublesome.

If you cut thicker boards routinely, consider buying a tool more suitable for the purpose, similar to the machines used throughout the graphics industry. When I demonstrate Fletcher-Terry FSC machines at trade shows and distributor events, framers are amazed at how well they cut all kinds of boards up to 1/2" thick.
http://www.fletcherviscom.com/viscom/fsc/FSC_Main.shtml
 
Been looking for a good solution as well which is why I came to this thread. I'm trying to cut 3/16 foam core with a 350 gsm paper mounted on it. Still trying to get the technique down but the best results I've gotten so far have been to use a fresh X-Acto knife to score the print and then to use a fresh utility knife on a second pass to cut through the board in one go.

One of the issues I ran into was constant slipping with my straight edge. Cutting through gator requires a little bit of brute force and I found that the blade was easily pushing the edge off the mark. I ended up using a piece of clean Lexan as my straight edge. It's transparent, straight and flat. While cutting I can put an arm on the Lexan and distributes my weight. Even if the board slips, the edge stays aligned. It's not perfect but... getting close. I think I kneed to find a utility knife that is a little thinner than your typical utility knife but still durable enough to take the pressure without warping.
 
My method diverges from the framing gods here...

I have been cutting FC for a long time (even before my current gig). Instead of cutting in one pass, I use a straightedge to cut a small groove then I remove the straightedge and do a second pass. I found that it keeps from nicking up the blade and (me) from shaving splinters of aluminum off the straightedge.

However, I do utilize a low angle and a nice sharp blade. Results in pretty clean cuts. I have still yet to settle on a favorite utility knife though...
 
It is really tricky cutting with a knife and straight edge and getting a good edge. I found that a fresh blade and multiple passes was a good solution for me. If you have a steady enough hand to master Jeff's technique, you are golden. If not, one pass through the top surface into the foam a second through the foam and the last pass all the way through. It became less of an issue once I got a good straight line mat cutter, but I continued with this technique even on that.

Now I have a Fletcher wall cutter, and it is pretty much a non-issue. Except when the operator slips up...this is why I am always out shaking hands during an election year. Not only does it drum up business, I amass quite a collection of free emery boards.
 
Careful cutting solves the problem with foamboard. Cutting through in one pass with a perfect setup gives the best results.

Lose the gator and switch to Mighty Core from Bienfang. You will get smoother edges and save money besides.
 
I also do as Jeff does, but it may look funny or feel odd but I try to keep my arm straight all through the cut by moving my body down not bending my elbow and keep the blade low and use the center not the tip.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top