Treating moldy paper?

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jim_p

jim_p

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Apr 8, 2007
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Natick, MA
I'm not asking for how-to advice here, more like some enlightenment on general approaches:

We recently received a consignment of posters from an estate. They were wrapped in plastic but had evidently been stored in damp conditions: when we unwrapped them they had a strong musty odor and some showed signs of actual mold. Does anybody know what the usual treatment is for paper in this condition?
 
Unroll, weighting edges as necessary, and let dry in less than 60% RH environment. Soft brush loose mold into raised vacuum nozzle (HEPA is best) if medium is stable to this. Keep in less than 60% RH environment. No chemical treatments are necessary, just keep the humidity down.
 
Yep, Rebecca is correct. I did exactly that for a couple of days last week.

A HEPA vacuum has a fine enough filter t trap the spores, rather than disperse them into the air through the exhaust of the vacuum. You really don't want to be breathing them in any more than you have to
(there are always spores in the air, you don't need to in crease the concentration). A third hand to hold the vacuum nozzle is sometimes useful. The idea is to brush the debris into the vacuum, not put the nozzle right up to the paper.

Rinse the brush (and the vacuum nozzle if you like) with alcohol (any kind). Do NOT rinse the posters or attempt any other kind of treatment. Most are deleterious and useless.
 
As others have said …….. and brush away from yourself.

The National Archives in Ireland suggest this brush 869-BR364 as very good, use with a suitable HEPA Vacuum http://www.universityproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=106
http://www.ote.ie/dusting-brush

Use a suitable face mask also, it serves two purposes one to protect you from mould and two it hopefully will protect the work should you sneeze.

Make up a 3 sided (about 6” high sides) tray bigger than the posters from old board to place the work in that you are cleaning, this will help keep the mould from going all over the place.
 
All these treatments are sound, but it is my understanding that this only removes the appearance of the mold. Keeping a Stable environment will keep the mold from growing much further. However once the proper conditions are meant it will flourish, unless the paper is fumigated to kill the mold present within the paper itself.
 
Mold

If one reads Rebecca's post carefully, one sees the important factors = relative humidity below 60% at 70 degrees F/ or 20 degrees C and no chemicals added. Mold spores are everywhere and trying to kill them with chemicals will harm other materials. Keeping the spores too dry to grow is the answer.


Hugh
 
jim_p said:
I'm not asking for how-to advice here, more like some enlightenment on general approaches:

We recently received a consignment of posters from an estate. They were wrapped in plastic but had evidently been stored in damp conditions: when we unwrapped them they had a strong musty odor and some showed signs of actual mold. Does anybody know what the usual treatment is for paper in this condition?

[To dry the art and air in a bag, Silica Gel dessicant powder, as used for drying cut flowers - used during the humid summer months (at 59% r.h. this week and climbing). For conserving art materials, 2 sheets of glass for viewing the front and back can be sealed at the edges with aluminized mylar tape. The dessicant can be placed in a spacer channel at the bottom, then a sewn microfiber fabric sleeve or heat sealed perforated plastic sleeve to contain the dessicant during transport and hanging. This is similar to an insulated glass window assembly that uses a slotted aluminum or stainless steel channel filled with dessicant on all 4 sides, and neutral cure silicone around the edges for sealing.

Ken Bender
Click to expand...
 
I just came back from our local conservation group meeting and Mary Lou Florian - THE expert on fungus and mold - shared her latest research on the subject. Long story short, if you feel that you must disinfect, 7:3 (70%) ethanol:deionized water is the most effective solution to use, but that it is not necessary. Because as soon as you clean off the surface, new spores are deposited. The only effective way is, as we knew ;), to keep the RH down.

That being said, ethanol can be used to "buy time" so that mold doesn't grow while you are drying things out. A Japanese company has developed an ethanol sachet that can be included in short term packaging of moist items (for example cakes being shipped) - they are tailor made according to air volume etc. :)

And, on a related note, one Italian research institute has been researching the use of calcium proprionate in the treatment of paper items, as it has mold prevention properties (it is used in the baking industry, the reason commercial bread does not go moldy). I've been using it for "at risk" items (materials that have been treated for foxing).
 
Mold needs particular conditions to thrive. These are as follows:

A suitable mold friendly source of nutrition, warm and damp atmosphere, acidic environment and a relatively low level of exposure to light.

So a good starting point to to create the wrong conditions for mould to grow.

Alkaline buffered framing materials will help to impede mould growth, as mold does not thrive in an alkaline environment.

Bumpers on the backs of frames will assist air flow behind the frame, which will help to reduce condensation problems and the temperature gradients which cause condensation.

Don't hang, or store the framed artwork anywhere damp, or close to or above sources of heat, capable of creating condesation, either in the frame or on the back of the frame.

Where appropiate I often remove loose mold spores with a product called Groom Stick.

http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/6_groom_stick.htm

Check out the link. It's easy to use and does not release spores into the air for you to breathe in and adversely affect your health.
 
Groom Stick...

Not your average framer said:
Mold needs particular conditions to thrive. These are as follows:

A suitable mold friendly source of nutrition, warm and damp atmosphere, acidic environment and a relatively low level of exposure to light.

So a good starting point to to create the wrong conditions for mould to grow.

Alkaline buffered framing materials will help to impede mould growth, as mold does not thrive in an alkaline environment.

Bumpers on the backs of frames will assist air flow behind the frame, which will help to reduce condensation problems and the temperature gradients which cause condensation.

Don't hang, or store the framed artwork anywhere damp, or close to or above sources of heat, capable of creating condesation, either in the frame or on the back of the frame.

Where appropiate I often remove loose mold spores with a product called Groom Stick.

http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/6_groom_stick.htm

Check out the link. It's easy to use and does not release spores into the air for you to breathe in and adversely affect your health.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah! We have a similar product in the US. It's called Silly Putty!
;)

seriously though...very interesting product - thanks for the info!
 
It appears Goom/Stick is similar to a kneadable eraser available at any art supply store.
 
This is the Groom/Stick we have on this side of the pond, it is specifically designed for use in the conservation field, with careful attention to how it is manufactured and what is used to manufacture the product, the company who produce it have a long history of serving the conservation market.

The UK Manufacturer: http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/6_groom_stick.htm

I stock and sell it in Ireland: http://www.ote.ie/groom-stick

University Products have it in the US http://www.universityproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=751
 
Framing: said:
This is the Groom/Stick we have on this side of the pond, it is specifically designed for use in the conservation field, with careful attention to how it is manufactured and what is used to manufacture the product, the company who produce it have a long history of serving the conservation market.

The UK Manufacturer: http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/6_groom_stick.htm

I stock and sell it in Ireland: http://www.ote.ie/groom-stick

University Products have it in the US http://www.universityproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=751
Click to expand...

Very interesting. Do you happen to know whether or not this can be used to clean minor smudges from photographs?
 
The best way I have found is to wait for a beautiful sunny day, cover an outside table with a clean sheet, lay the smelly items on the sheet, cover with another sheet or light weight spunbond polyester, weight the edges of the sheet so things don't blow away and leave for a few hours. Keeping an eye on them of course.
 
GreenTea said:
Very interesting. Do you happen to know whether or not this can be used to clean minor smudges from photographs?
Click to expand...

Sorry I don’t know if GroomStick would work for your photo application.

I will drop the manufacture an email and ask them.

To get rid of the smell on the posters, if Rebecca’s outdoor solution is not an option, perhaps this product form University Products might work…….. Book Deodorizer http://www.universityproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=1630

This is a product I just put in stock for the Irish market http://www.ote.ie/book-deodoriser ........ hopefully I will find there is a market for it :shrug:
 
If anyone does try it, I'd love to hear how it works. I've tried lava rocks, and microchamber paper, both of which have the zeolites that are supposed to help, but - they didn't. With luck, this product will :)
 
GreenTea said:
Very interesting. Do you happen to know whether or not this can be used to clean minor smudges from photographs?
Click to expand...

The manufacturers of Groom/Stick have given the following advice.

You should break off a tiny piece of Groom/Stick and very gently test it in a discreet area. They have suggested that there should not be any problem, it should do the job well.

However good conservation practice dictates you should do some testing first.
 
Framing: said:
The manufacturers of Groom/Stick have given the following advice.

You should break off a tiny piece of Groom/Stick and very gently test it in a discreet area. They have suggested that there should not be any problem, it should do the job well.

However good conservation practice dictates you should do some testing first.
Click to expand...

Thank you for taking the time to answer my question! I love the Grumble, and especially the international aspects of it.

:icon21:
 
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