Steve Beswick
True Grumbler
I have 3 hard maple shadow box frames to join. My vnailer does not seem to be up to the challenge. Has anyone used a brad nailer to join such a beast, or will I need to hand nail them?
To join a shadow box
- Thread starter Steve Beswick
- Start date
I would go with the brad nailer. It should work fine, and will maker smaller, less noticeable holes to fill.
Rick
Rick
DLB
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
If you use any type of pneumatic nailer, make sure you are pointing it straight on. Otherwise, the nail will shoot out the side.
I can't imagine how I would know something like this.
dave.
I can't imagine how I would know something like this.
dave.
Baer Charlton
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
actually run a bastard-file across the tips of the nails to dull them. If they are too sharp they will follow the grain....
the smaller the better, let the glue do the work and the brads just hold till it drys. A band clamp is good too.
Which has nothing to do with a certain red headed girl who used to blow the obo.
the smaller the better, let the glue do the work and the brads just hold till it drys. A band clamp is good too.
Which has nothing to do with a certain red headed girl who used to blow the obo.
DLB
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
OMG. You never cease to stupefy me. And you didn't even make a pun about the bastard file!
Following the grain of the wood -- Maybe that's what happened to....umm, "my friend" when I -- er, HE -- shot the nails through the side of the moulding.
dave.
I have had this prob with deep oak/ash mouldings. If the frame is smallish, I put a shallow v-nail in each corner (<7mm), well away from the outer edge. Then throw a band clamp around and cinch it up tight. The v-nails just serve to hold the corners in alignment. The glue does the work. On bigger frames, a couple of brads in each corner may be prudent. You can sometimes get the brads in while the clamp is on. If you really want the belt'n'braces approach, use two-part epoxy glue, which has great strength if the joint is tightly clamped. But use the slow-setting variety (2hrs+ working time). It does mean leaving the frame clamped for at least overnight before unclamping. If the wood is very dense with no discernable pores in the end grain (like maple
) you can make a few holes in the joint face with a tiny drill (*Dremel with fine engraving bit is good) to give the epoxy something to key into.
* Also great for fake woodworm holes.
) you can make a few holes in the joint face with a tiny drill (*Dremel with fine engraving bit is good) to give the epoxy something to key into. * Also great for fake woodworm holes.
Dave
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
This is where the old tried and true method of glue, drill, brads and hammer shine. Nothing like hand manipulation to give you the perfect join every time. Sanding the miters carefully prior to joining is imperative to alleviating any problems with gaps.
I'm with Dave...its not brain surgery. Get out your trusty vice, brads, drill, glue and hammer. Nothing wrong with gold old tradition treatments.
(Dave, I checked...I still haven't gotten that special bottle of GOOSE you were going to send.)
(Dave, I checked...I still haven't gotten that special bottle of GOOSE you were going to send.)
Underpinners can't shoot fasteners more than about 1" into the wood without risk of deflecting and protruding.
I usually use my good 'ole Stanley miter vices and glue, then shoot 28-gauge, 1-1/8" long pins in the corners using my Omer pneumatic pinner, purchased from AMS.
What a great tool that is -- the pins are so small that the holes are barely visible in smooth-grained wood and nearly invisible in coarse-grained woods. If the moulding is deep, strap-clamping might overcome a slight warp. I would put on the strap while the corners are still in the vices, and let the whole thing dry overnight under tension of the clamps.
I usually use my good 'ole Stanley miter vices and glue, then shoot 28-gauge, 1-1/8" long pins in the corners using my Omer pneumatic pinner, purchased from AMS.
What a great tool that is -- the pins are so small that the holes are barely visible in smooth-grained wood and nearly invisible in coarse-grained woods. If the moulding is deep, strap-clamping might overcome a slight warp. I would put on the strap while the corners are still in the vices, and let the whole thing dry overnight under tension of the clamps.
Val
PFG, Picture Framing God
What'd I do now?
.
.
Heck, that's how I joined everything for years....only way I knew how...no underpinners, back then.
.
.
And that's oboe, Baerfriend.
Steve Beswick
True Grumbler
Thanks everyone for the quick response. As it turns out my nailer is MIA, so it looks like it's hand nailing for me.
Bogframe
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I seem to remember M*********p making a shadowbox clamp that worked very well. There's a few threads on them.
Maple, ash and oak are typically very hard woods and will spilt easily, I use a good old fashion hand drill and brads, I cut the head off of a brad and use that as my drill bit, trust me it works. Then I cut the tip of the brad off, for two reasons, one as stated above, if it's pointy it will follow the grain and split the wood, two I trim it so the brad length is the same as the pilot hole that I drilled, other wise if it is longer, and going into the maple it will bend or the brad itself will get mushed.