Question To hang a large mirror

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leighdouglasjohnson

leighdouglasjohnson

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I need to know the recommended method(s) of hanging a larger mirror for a bathroom. We do not wish to glue it on to the wall.
Will a masonite backing be a problem with the moist air in the bath?
What is the best hardware to use? (sizes are 4 x4' and 4 x 2.5').
Thanks
 
More info please, is it framed? or is it just the mirror and backing. Masonite as you suggest might not be the best backing, maybe coroplast in a bathroom would be better.

Also try using the "search" button at the top of the page there are lots of threads on the subject.
 
Yes, sorry to be vague. the mirror would be in a 3" wooden frame from Studio mldg. The intention now is to use Wall Buddies to hang it to the wall. The backing panel would ideally be set into the frame rabbett so it is flush to the back of the frame. To do this and have the panel acually strengthen the frame, I thought to glue wood spacer strips to the sides of the rabbett behind the mirror, then screw the panel to the spacer strips. If the client chooses a frame with a rabbett too shallow to do this, then the panel would have to be screwed to the back face of the frame. Does anyone have experience with this.?
Thanks, leigh
 
I would definitly direct them to a frame deep enough to accomodate the backing board. The rest of your plan seems sound.
 
My view FWIW:
  1. 48x48 and 48x30 are not huge mirrors
  2. I prefer Z-bar to Wallbuddies on mirrors for the following reasons:
    1. More anchor points in both frame and especially wall
    2. Better interlock
    3. For big mirrors a second strip can be used on the bottom rail for increased support
  3. Most bathrooms are really not all that steamy but if that is an issue (real or perceived) then you might want to employ all or some of the following:
    1. Seal the edges of the mirror with Gunther Seal-Kwik Mirror Edge Sealer (http://www.gunthermirrormastics.com/SealKwik_app_ins.htm)
    2. If the frame is wood, seal the rabbet with aluminized tape to prevent that area from absorbing and releasing moisture.
    3. Cut an ArtSorb panel pre-conditioned to 35% or less to fit the back of the mirror (www.universityproducts.com carries the ArtSorb line of desiccants and humectants). Then seal the margins of the ArtSorb tightly against the rabbet with aluminized tape.
    4. Use polyflute (Coroplast) as backing board, again sealed with the aluminized tape.
 
Sounds like you need a strainer to support the framing, such as a canvas strecher built to go into the back of the frame then screwed into the back. This will reinforce the framing and make it incredibly solid. Wall buddies, d ring hangers, Z bar, or Hangman products will all do the job fine. Of all the products wall buddies will make it stand away from the wall the most and would be the least desirable, IMO. I would use 75lb hangers and D ring hooks, or the Z bar.

You mentioned the frame is 3" wide, but the customer hasn't picked one out yet?:confused: How deep is the frame? ALso what kind of mirror are you using, thickeness ect...

sample of a strainer, depth is adjustable.
100.jpg
 
Randy,
I like your idea of using a canvas stretcher but the problem is the depth of rabbet not being deep enough, hence my idea to attach the spacer to the frame and the backing to the spacer. The z bar seems the best hanger.
Thanks !!
Leigh
 
Andrew,
Thanks so much for your advice. Z bars and coroplast backing with the Artsorb inside and seal it all up.
much appreciated!
Leigh
 
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