Tips for Fitting Very Large Pictures??



Can anyone give me advice on fitting very large pictues with plex and fillets, we do alot of them. The problem is with the frame bowing plex falling out, carnage everywhere. We are down one fitter, so I the lowly matcutter am filling in, we tried wiring, but it is hard to do. Any help will be appreciated!!!!!
If you have room in the rabbet, you could use strainer bars like you would on a large canvas. You cut the 1x2, or whatever you choose, to fit just inside the width or length, then use the little metal attach-its. Art supply stores--or probably United--sells them. Also, there's a product called Framestrap, I believe. It's a pretty nifty little thing and is in the United Catalog also. 'Course, you can hot glue it all around. (Let's see who howls at that!)
The first thing to remember with large peices is that the less the plexi is touched the better. Not at all is the best. First I give the work table a new kraft paper top. Then while the cover paper is still on the plexi give it a wiping with a damp rag with lots of attention to the edges. Peel one side a fold it into the frame with two people. Then I make a platform out of scraps of fome core that fills the depth from front of the plexi to the table. This will solve your drooping problem. I also rip wood spacers the dimentions I need and seal them with gesso all the way around. Then they can be painted. The last thing I use is a strainer of hopefully at least 5/8" thick. If you drill holes from the inside verticle face of the strainer and counter sink them you can use a dry wall screw that is just a little longer than the width of the strainer. This will pin the strainer into the frame and pull it straight especially if there is a center brace in the strainer. If I follow these steps I very rarely need to ever touch the inside of the plexi at all, just a shot of comressed air to blow any dust. Also I try not include wire on any thing over 40x60. I just put d-rings oriented straight up the verticle legs of the strainer.
hey beezor, I've found the most simple way to strap a frame is- with a wood frame cut a 2 inch strip of mat a quarter inch short of the outer frame size-after everythings secured in the frame staple one end of mat strip top top of frame then pulling the frame tight staple other end to bottom of frame than paper and wire fit. On a metal frame use a hanger on top and bottom (screw type or "eurohanger" work best) tie wire to top hanger and pull tight and fasten to bottom hanger-if you need it tighter slide bottom hanger to one side until tight and fasten hanger.
I got tired of selling under sized frames to folks who would step over a dollar to pick up a dime. We now we boldly tell customers that they need a substantial enough frame. Also, call Falcon East and ask about their liners. Wonderful selection and your clients will love them. Try end wraps for that beautiful tailored look.

There are two inch wide pieces of wood that you can get a special tool to affix them to the frame. Also you can tack a two inch mat board strip accross the weak point. If need be try an 8 ply for more support. You may want to use screw and gromets to attach the mat board strips to the frame, instead of staples. Another alternative, canvas clips can help instead of points, because they grip.

There is also a company that makes an aluminum "U" shaped bar that can be cut and fixed to both wood and metal frames with special hardware. Look in the United Catalog - Albin Frame Supports page 94.

Picture wire sometimes stretches when tension is used.

Hope this helps. Best of all of you.


[This message has been edited by ArtLady (edited 11-15-1999).]

[This message has been edited by ArtLady (edited 11-16-1999).]