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Hoffmann Dovetail Joining System

The struggle to get *perfect* corners on an 8 ply mat on the Fletcher 2100 is real...

FramerKat

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
460
And this just makes me miss my decked out 2100 that I had 20 years ago all the more. My triceps are killing me from just one oversize 8 ply mat...and I need to cut another. I'm definitely getting my mojo back on this thing though...figuring out how to not get overcuts...I have a "cheat sheet" written in pencil on the measuring guide for how far above and below the line I need to have the blade.

Will be looking to get at least the "lifters," and a set of measuring stops for this thing in the future. I was so much faster when I had those running on my old one back in the day.
 

dpframing

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
282
Sounds like you're dealing with the situation at hand.

For every 8-ply mat that I cut, I first do an overcut with the actual mat that I'm going to be cutting a window in. That is, if I need a 3" wide mat, I set my stops and the margin bar to 3 1/2" or 3 3/4" and cut a window or at least a corner. Then I examine if there
were overcuts or undercuts on the start and end cut. Then I adjust my stops accordingly and do the real cut. This is a good way to handle 8-ply mats since they vary GREATLY in thickness from company to company.
This may or may not help since you say that you don't have stops yet and you're doing it by eye. However, you can still do a practice cut on the actual mat by increasing the mat width by 1/4" or 1/2" using pencil lines. :)
 
Last edited:

Prospero

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
19,280
My terminology may differ. How thick is an 8-ply mat?

I call std thick approx 1.5mm matboard 6-ply. The next up 8-ply, about 2mm. The really thick 12-ply - about 3mm. o_O

Anyway, I don't cut a lot of thick board but I have done a few lately.

For 2mm board......

I find doing a quick set-up with a scrap piece helps. First set your blade depth so it goes just into the slip sheet.

The top (furthest away) stop shouldn't need any compensation as the blade is reaching further out and should hit the right spot.

The bottom stop needs about 2mm subtracting. So if the margin is 70mm, set the stop to 68. A bit of jiggling may be needed. This is
where the scrap piece comes in. Any variations in thickness between different brands need a bit of fine-tuning.
Have a twiddle about until the corner is perfect. :D

As for the really thick stuff, the principle is the same but it's best to do multiple cuts increasing the blade depth each pass. But set the stops
as if the blade was fully out.
 

Artistic Framer

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
425
If you don't already have Fletcher .015 SE blades, give them a try. I get the best cuts with the bevel facing away from me (toward the dropout). I mention blade direction because some machines (C&H for one) like the SE bevel to face you (away from the dropout)...and oddly enough it works!? :confused:
 

dpframing

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
282
I get the best cuts with the bevel facing away from me (toward the dropout).
Never heard of this before. Very interesting. I'm gonna try it.
The Grumble at its "trade secret" best.
 
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