table surface

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billyearth

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What do most of you use for a fitting table surface (carpet, plastic laminate, wood, etc.)? I'm in the process of re-doing our work tables and want to trash the carpeted surfaces (even though the nap is short and we vacuum often). Is there any (affordable) solid surface material you can recommend?
 
My work surface consists of one quarter inch thick felt with a layer of calico (muslin) stretched over the top then a layer of interlock fabric over that. After I have sewn up numerous holes in the top layer, (about every year) I stretch another layer of interlock over the top of that.
I use a stiff brush and compressed air to keep the surface clean.
This soft surface means that I can put any frame face down and move it around as much as I like with no chance of any damage.
I use a dark colour interlock as the top surface so that when cleaning glass, any marks or unclean areas are very easily seen and rectified.
 
ok, so I am a cheapskate, but I cover my table with sheets of paper from the glass boxes. There is no dust or glass shards to vacuum,and when it gets dirty I just put another one on. I first put a layer of cardboard down for padding.
 
carpet - carpet - carpet. I get end pieces at the local carpet store- cheap. $10.00 will cover 3 tables, but you have to be careful what kind, I found that the loopy kind works best for me, also I have my 60" mat cutter at the end of the table and I can slide it into any position that I need, then out of the way.
 
Won't the carpet hold things like dirt, saw dust, glass, and points/nails? I understand the need for a surface that is soft, but I can't see having a surface that glass chips will get stuck in.
We have a vinyl counter top. It is easy for clean up. I put down towels, when I need a soft surface.


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Sue May :)
"Everyone is born right-handed, only the greatest can over come it!"
 
We cover our work tables first with x-board and then cover that with kraft paper. The paper gets changed when needed, the x-board (rarely needs to be changed) keeps the table top from being cut and offers a little buffer from the hard top of the table. Like Susan, when necessary we also pull out softer stuff.
Ruth
 
I'm another cheapskate, I use matboard boxes and staple 'em on. Felt and carpet will never again be in my workshop, these are good to work on in general but they do hold small shards of glass that are more likely to result from 2mm glass than other glasses, once you've scratched a sheet of Tru-Vue opinions change quickly.
 
Thre's a little piece of equipment called a "Dirt Devil".I use one for the table, have one connected to my saw, and one connected to my thumbnailer. Worth it's weight in gold and the system works well for my operation.
 
The first table I had was covered in carpeting but after scratching a few things I nixed that idea. I then had a particle board top covered in several layers of paper. It worked OK. Next place I worked had one table covered in carpet for fitting and the other covered with 3X board as we did a lot of trimming and cutting on it. Again, I didn't like the carpet but the 3X board was a keeper. Another place had carpeting but covered that with matboard and several layers of paper. That had the advantage of padding and easy cleaning, but you didn't want to slide the frame across it as the paper would act like sandpaper and rub the high spots off. Right now my worktable is covered with Sintra. I do a lot of cutting on it so that works for me. I just have to be careful not to slam frames down on it as there is no padding and I do have to rotate it and replace it every so often. I don't know if there is a perfect solution unless you can have a different table for every use.
 
All of my tables have a particle board base. On top of that is 1/4" cardboard topped with matboard. I then cover that with brown Kraft. Any blade work is done hanging over the side. I change the Kraft weekly.
 
re table surface. we have 3/4 inch pressboard which we have covered with material that is used by draft people . I think it called core bord .It works very good . easy to keep clean, with steel wool and has some softness to it . I find it the best so far.
 
Our fitting tables can be seen by customers so I like the professional look a carpet surface provides. We recycle paper from glass boxes for carpeted fitting stations as needed. We vaccuum tables religiously everyday with a full size vaccuum cleaner and sometimes a couple of times as needed. Clean padded surface is essential.
Our frame tables are in a seperate room not exposed to the public. They have a plywood top covered with a layer of paper matboard for padding and finally a layer of kraft paper. Paper gets changed a couple of times a week(as needed), the matboard is changed a few times per year. Due to the amount of glue that builds up on a table surface we never considered using masonite.
 
Partical board, I/4 inch Upsom board, Kraft Paper. Upsom board is a solid cardboard wall covering that was used a lot in cheaper structures in lu of Drywall or plaster. It comes 1/4 & 1/8 inch. In the old days it was a popular item in frame shops for mounting and making thick, gesso'd mats, among other things. Foam core pretty much replaced it. Some lumber yards still carry it though.
John
 
We found that the best surface for a fitting table is a dark blanket.This can be drapped over the table when fitting and taken off quickly when not required.Cleaning is easy just take it outside and given a good shake.
The dark colour makes cleaning glass easier .
 
Have tried many surfaces for joining and fitting frames but the best--by far--is a piece of linoleum (Congoleum) laid over the table and stapled on the edges to keep it flat and not move. My color I chose is white but you could choose any color you like. Its easy to keep clean and glue wipes right off and no damage to the frame when I move it around for closing the frame. Good Luck.
 
I'm voting for triple-X board covered with brown paper. Too much padding is annoying. We use mat board scraps for slip sheets when cutting with an Exacto knife. We also use loose sheets of paper from glass boxes for an extra clean surface. They can then be thrown away easily without having to re-paper the whole work table. The frames don't get scuffed. We don't slide them. Just kinda lift them to move them.
 
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