Switching V-Nail Heights

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Shayla

Shayla

WOW Framer
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Do you take the time to switch out v-nail heights if the frame calls for it,
or do you just pick one, even if it's not optimal for all areas, and do that?
 
For the most part I use 10mm v-nails. If the frame is taller, I will stack them. If it is too short for 10mm, I will change it to build that frame and then toss the sample.

Ain-t-Nobody-Got-Time-Fo-Dat-sweet-brown+meme+oh+jesus+it's+a+fire.jpg
 
Yes always choose the most appropriate size. Many profiles require stacking in one spot and a single in another.
 
The moulding tells me what height to use.

Since the moulding is the boss, I don't have a choice so I'm forced to use the height that the moulding tells me.

That being said, I use 15mm most of the time. The order that the moulding tells me to use (in order by frequency) is 15mm, 10mm, 12mm and 7mm.

Its easier to listen to the moulding than to the voices in my head.
 
I switch out too. Use mainly 10 mm but also use 15's and 7's.

My vnailer is an AMP VN 2+1. It can be a pain changing vnails as you have to use the allen key and change the whole thing, so I tend to cut and use the moulding that matches the nails I have in the machine then change and cut all the ones that match the new nail config. Do them in batches according to the nails in other words. I also have found that having a magnet stuck to the front of the vnailer is handy as I don't lose the allen wrench as often now.

Those of you that change vnails what vnailer do you use? I ask because I heard that the Caseese has cartridges and that changing vnails is easier with that machine. I am wondering if ease of operation or ease of changing plays into your decision to switch vnail configs.
 
Larry Peterson said:
The moulding tells me what height to use.

Since the moulding is the boss, I don't have a choice so I'm forced to use the height that the moulding tells me.

That being said, I use 15mm most of the time. The order that the moulding tells me to use (in order by frequency) is 15mm, 10mm, 12mm and 7mm.

Its easier to listen to the moulding than to the voices in my head.
Click to expand...

If, for example, a moulding is 3" wide... 3/4" thick inside and 1/4" thick outside the moulding (or vice-versa), i use 15mm vnails on the inside. NONE on the outside. I see no reason to switch to a shorter vnail for the outside of the moulding. That is why i rarely use any vnails other than 15mm. ☺
 
Bob Doyle said:
I also have found that having a magnet stuck to the front of the vnailer is handy as I don't lose the allen wrench as often now.

Those of you that change vnails what vnailer do you use? I ask because I heard that the Caseese has cartridges and that changing vnails is easier with that machine. I am wondering if ease of operation or ease of changing plays into your decision to switch vnail configs.
Click to expand...

I use the VN42. Changing sizes takes about a minute. I leave the allen wrench on top of vnailer. It falls off occasionally but I always find it.
 
MitchelC said:
If, for example, a moulding is 3" wide... 3/4" thick inside and 1/4" thick outside the moulding (or vice-versa), i use 15mm vnails on the inside. NONE on the outside. I see no reason to switch to a shorter vnail for the outside of the moulding. That is why i rarely use any vnails other than 15mm. ☺
Click to expand...

When I do a moulding like this, most often I size for the shortest size and then stack that size on the thicker portions.
 
I'll change from frame to frame, but never within the same frame.

My thought is the vnails are the clamps while the glue sets, and added strength afterwards. No need to get a vnail on every part of the mitre.
 
Larry Peterson said:
When I do a moulding like this, most often I size for the shortest size and then stack that size on the thicker portions.
Click to expand...

Ditto here.

Larry Peterson said:
I use the VN42. Changing sizes takes about a minute. I leave the allen wrench on top of vnailer. It falls off occasionally but I always find it.
Click to expand...
That is why I use the magnet :) When I would bend down to pick up the wrench I would knock my head on the vnailer or "poke my eye out" on the surrounding clutter. Also I would have to do a lot of back tracking to find the wrench. Did the phone ring, did a customer call, did nature call... Is the wrench anywhere there or in between... When the plastic clips on the bainbridge design tool broke I stole a magnet out of that.
 
Bob Doyle said:
I ask because I heard that the Caseese has cartridges and that changing vnails is easier with that machine. I am wondering if ease of operation or ease of changing plays into your decision to switch vnail configs.
Click to expand...

They do have cartridges but the nails are much more expensive for the Cassese. The replacement for the ITW VN42 is the VN144s and requires no head change for different sizes. The Brevetti that I had 25 years ago used a steel bar under the nails to change the height which was very easy to use. My VN42 only takes a minute to change the head like Larry said.
 
Jeff for me the main delay came in finding where I last left the wrench :) I had heard the Caseese was easier to swap out vnails but the person I bought from had the AMP. I also hear that the Caseese uses higher air pressure and more of it, so the compressor cycles on and off more often. But I have no experience with that. And now that amy compressor is fairly quiet that wouldn't be an issue any longer. Before with the loud HomeDepot compressor I felt like I needed ear protection when joining frames.
 
On my planet the most important position for the nails is on the outside. So I optimise for that. So if I stacked 2 10mms in the back, and the inside was too shallow to do the same but could take two stacked 7s, I would just use a single 10. The inside position is more to level out any slight misalignments due to any slight twisty rails.
 
:popc:
 
Nice and easy, I just program in the different V nail positions and sizes and let the machine GUN fire all different sizes. THE BOSS Alfamacchi.
 
I have a Brevetti V-nailer which uses nails bound by glue into sticks. These sticks sit on a metal slip with a different thickness slip for each size v-nail. To change v-nails you use a magnet on a thin wand to extract the v-nails then a threaded rod to remove the slip.

It sounds a lot worse than it is - I can change over in under 30 seconds. I use every size available in hard and soft and for efficiency I group my mouldings according to the "ammunition" they require.
 
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