Question Super Softstrand hanging wire: Can if be crimped or just twisted?

reidthaler

Grumbler in Training
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Jun 18, 2007
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If just twisted, how do you make it look neat? I like the look of Surflon, but don't want to pay the cost.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Reid
 
If just twisted, how do you make it look neat? I like the look of Surflon, but don't want to pay the cost.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Reid

Hi Reid,

We use both the wires mentioned.. Surflon is definitely worth paying the extra for.. It's quicker and neater IMO and when you work out how much extra you pay per picture, it's not that much...

I don't think softstrand is designed for crimping as the plastic coating is much softer and not as strong... The crimps may squash through too easily.

Just my opinion!
 
Hi Reid,

We use both the wires mentioned.. Surflon is definitely worth paying the extra for.. It's quicker and neater IMO and when you work out how much extra you pay per picture, it's not that much...

I don't think softstrand is designed for crimping as the plastic coating is much softer and not as strong... The crimps may squash through too easily.

Just my opinion!

Thanks for your opinion. I think you're probably right. If I'm going to all the expense I am to make gallery wrapped canvas ink jet prints, then I'm not talking about that much more money.

Reid
 
I used a couple of brands of coated SS wire over the years and I don't think I ever gave it a thought about "making it look neat". It just did. The coated wires are very flexible and can be twisted easily stacking each round of wire up tight next to the previous twist. Maybe you are trying to twist the wire with too short an end to begin with sticking out?? I usually left about 2" or so of wire when I threaded it through the D-ring, that gives you enough on the tag end of the wire to get a good purchase and wrap tightly for a neat appearance. Clip off the remaining tag end after 4 or 5 wraps and it should look good.
 
Twisting the plastic coated wire is very neat when wound tight and trimmed with very sharp sidecutters. It can be crimped well but you must use aluminium crimps and the correct swaging tool. I would suggest it's more cost effective just twitching it.
 
I use SuperSoftstrand. Because the plastic coating has less friction than wire-against-wire, I like to make sure to have enough wraps around the main wire to ensure that it won't slip under weight of gravity, and I also use pliers to make sure it is twisted tightly.
 
If you want to make it uber-neat and finger friendly, regardless of what wire you use, slide a couple pieces of electrical grade shrink tube on the wire and use them to finish off the wire knot.
When I do use wires, and I do try to avoid it, I use the Super-Softstrand brand, and tie a knot on the terminal hardware, winding the tail end tight and close to the knot. It resembles the knot in a hangman's noose or a surgeon's knot for you fisherfolk.
 
I use LJ's brand of coated wire. The 15lb is quite pliable and easy to work with. The 25lb is a bit stiff to tie the knot, but wraps neatly when twisted.
I pull about 6-7" through the D-Ring, tie the loopy knot (can't for the life of me think of the correct term for this type of knot), then twist with fingers so each wrap is snugged up tight to the previous one.
Keep the knot part that is around the hanger loop loose so the knot can freely move.
Snip the end clean, so there isn't that nasty pokey little bit of wire extending out of the plastic covering.
Usually gets around 18-20 wraps. Maybe overkill? But what's the harm? I will do less on very small frames.
I'll go back and give the whole thing an additional twist with fingers or broad nose pliers to really snug it up.
framers knot.jpg


I like Wally's idea of a shrink tube to really make it tidy.

In most cases, I don't think many customers care what the wire/hangers look like.
However, attention to little details like this could improve the impression of the quality of workmanship.

Hah! I just noticed this thread started about10 years ago!
I hope the OP found a solution. 🤣
 
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