Stronger J-Lar alternative
- Thread starter doctor
- Start date
3M #887 is a single-sided, thin-ribbon, 1" wide polyester tape that sticks really well to clear polyester film (Mylar-D, Melinex 516). Have you tried that one?
I'm not sure how it would compare to J-Lar, but the polyester tape seems to have better stretch-resistance and shear-strength than the other tapes I've tried, made of polypropylene, polyethylene, acetate, and other clear plastics.
Your inquiry has aroused my curiosity. Why do you want a stronger tape than J-Lar? If you are using tape in a high-stress application, maybe there's a better approach than tape?
I'm not sure how it would compare to J-Lar, but the polyester tape seems to have better stretch-resistance and shear-strength than the other tapes I've tried, made of polypropylene, polyethylene, acetate, and other clear plastics.
Your inquiry has aroused my curiosity. Why do you want a stronger tape than J-Lar? If you are using tape in a high-stress application, maybe there's a better approach than tape?
David Hewitt
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
On the subject of J-Lar.
After reading the article BIG (9-09 PFM) I butted up two sheets of acrylic & tried to produce the invisible look on the seam by using 3m-887 & a light mist of water, just like described in the article. I never tried this procedure before. Anyway it didn't work well for me . Would the tapes be that different in this case? Or are their tips that would be helpful. Suggestions Please.
After reading the article BIG (9-09 PFM) I butted up two sheets of acrylic & tried to produce the invisible look on the seam by using 3m-887 & a light mist of water, just like described in the article. I never tried this procedure before. Anyway it didn't work well for me . Would the tapes be that different in this case? Or are their tips that would be helpful. Suggestions Please.
Did you also try applying the tape dry? I don't understand how adding a mist of water could help the taping. I believe the water would kill the adhesive's tack, would it not?
David Hewitt
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
I did try it dry, an wet. Dry adhere well, but had air problems. The reason I believe for the wet procedure is to help eliminate air and crease problems. (Sign & window tinters go the wet method to ease the application.)
My question was the adhesive issue also, reading the article my thought was that the J-Lar was compatible with water. ( 3M 877 also?)
When I took apart my test stripes, the glue stuck to the acrylic but released from the tape film. Maybe less of a mist and more setup time? I'll have to experiment more. I must say the wet side of the test was a much cleaner look then the dry side.
Thanks for the response.
My question was the adhesive issue also, reading the article my thought was that the J-Lar was compatible with water. ( 3M 877 also?)
When I took apart my test stripes, the glue stuck to the acrylic but released from the tape film. Maybe less of a mist and more setup time? I'll have to experiment more. I must say the wet side of the test was a much cleaner look then the dry side.
Thanks for the response.
I suggest you contact the makers of the pressure sensitive tapes. Neal Bartlett at ASAP Tapes (818-996-1652) has answered several questions for me, when I was unable to get to the right people at 3M. ASAP Tapes may have just the tape you need.
I suspect that the adhesives on window films are hygroscopic -- designed to be used with water -- and nothing like the pressure-sensitive adhesives on the tapes we use in framing.
If tiny air bubbles in the adhesive are a problem, I'd try heating the tape and/or the acrylic surface with a heat gun, just as the tape is being applied, then burnishing immediately, before the adhesive cools. That would be a two-person procedure, but maybe it could help. Note that too much heat could damage the acrylic.
I don't know about J-Lar, but that seems very odd for 3M #887. In every case I can recall, when the tape was removed, the adhesive came with it and did not remain on a solid surface, such as clear film, acrylic, or glass.
I suspect that the adhesives on window films are hygroscopic -- designed to be used with water -- and nothing like the pressure-sensitive adhesives on the tapes we use in framing.
If tiny air bubbles in the adhesive are a problem, I'd try heating the tape and/or the acrylic surface with a heat gun, just as the tape is being applied, then burnishing immediately, before the adhesive cools. That would be a two-person procedure, but maybe it could help. Note that too much heat could damage the acrylic.
I don't know about J-Lar, but that seems very odd for 3M #887. In every case I can recall, when the tape was removed, the adhesive came with it and did not remain on a solid surface, such as clear film, acrylic, or glass.
I've never used J-Lar specifically, but Specialty Tapes has a product that I think is called Framers Tape which I believe is similar. The adhesive on that does not cling very tenaciously to the carrier, and when that tape is 'removed' from a surface the adhesive tends to stay on the surface. (That's a pretty good reason not to use it for hinging art, eh?)
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick
Jeff Rodier
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Describe the project that you are creating specifically. The manner in which you are butting the plex is creating 3 seams instead of one. You should use the solvent used to fuses the product rather than taping. Acrylic boxes are fused and not glued. The solvent is run in the seam with a dispenser bottle with a syringe like tip. The syringe uses gravity rather than a plunger. You run the seam by tipping the dispenser and moving the tip in the crevice. A butt joint is very difficult to run but can be done very easily by an experienced individual. The 2 edges need to be prepped with a sraping tool or sand paper. The trick to a clear seam is that as the edges are scraped or sanded the edge remains a perfect 90 degrees to the face.
You could check the phone listings in your area for plastic fabricators or retail display fabricators for an individual that will do it very inexpensively. You can learn to do it yourself but would need to practice on dozens to hundreds of pieces before you are proficient with it.
You could check the phone listings in your area for plastic fabricators or retail display fabricators for an individual that will do it very inexpensively. You can learn to do it yourself but would need to practice on dozens to hundreds of pieces before you are proficient with it.
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
For temporary applications, museums have been using J-Lar to seal vertical joints in very large wall cases, for years. The acrylic is buffed at its ends and hung from the top of the case with screws. The clean acrylic is wiped with alcohol and the tape is applied with pressure, to drive out air.
Hugh
Hugh
framah
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
When I worked for the exhibit house in NJ, that is how it was speced out for joining the sheets of acrylic on museum exhibits and that was in the 80's.
Back then, the big thing was the new plastic that didn't scratch!! You could take steel wool to it and no scratch. We all ooooh'd and aaah'd over it.
Back then, the big thing was the new plastic that didn't scratch!! You could take steel wool to it and no scratch. We all ooooh'd and aaah'd over it.
David Hewitt
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Jeff #8
I was trying to duplicate the "Invisible Look,"part of what I read in a article titled BIG in the September 2009 issue of Picture Framing Magazine.Referring to the last sentence in section #4 on page 50.
Thanks to all of you for the advise.
I was trying to duplicate the "Invisible Look,"part of what I read in a article titled BIG in the September 2009 issue of Picture Framing Magazine.Referring to the last sentence in section #4 on page 50.
Thanks to all of you for the advise.
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
The old polyester J Lar was great to work with, but when they switched to polyprolyene, for the carrier, it started sherdding, when pulled off. 3M 850 is one alternative and 371 0 also will become quite transparent, when pressed firmly onto acrylic.
Hugh
Hugh