Stretching Thin Fabric Wall-Hanging

Shayla

WOW Framer
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This customer wants her fabric art stretched and hung on the wall with no frame.


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I told her about the importance of glazing to protect from fading, but she's a quilter
and wants it done as is. It's very lightweight material, but she's appliqued extra
fabric and some beads on the front. I'm familiar with the lacing method and we
also have an Attach-Ez, but I'm not sure what method would be best. At about 33
x 43 inches, it's larger than what we usually stretch, and because it won't go in
a frame, I'm wanting a backer that won't warp once it's on the wall. The things
I've thought of so far are two layers of foam core, mounted together, two layers
of coroplast mounted together (but that would preclude using an Attach-Ez, and
ditto if I tried Gatorboard?). Or, something else that I'm not familiar with. She
said a quilting friend suggested having it stretched on a frame, and but it's too
light for our usual stretcher frames. I'd appreciate any helpful suggestions.

I told her that whatever we do, I'd want to put a thin layer of batting behind it,
and perhaps tack down a number of places in the middle to help keep it from
sagging. She's worked for four years on it, and she said she brought it to me
so it would be done right. One of those jobs that feels scary, and I want it to
be perfect for her.
 
P.S. The rust-colored outer border is about 3 1/2 inches wide, and she
wants it stretched with 2" of that still showing.
 
I would build a frame of 1x2 material slightly smaller than fabric. Cover the top of the frame with coroplast. Put a light amount of batting between the frame and fabric. Stitch the fabric to the coroplast using a curved needle or Pat's Attach-Ez.
 
I'd probably add a muslin backing to it.

I would lay the whole textile on a big piece of unbleached muslin ( I wash mine before I use it) and stitch it down by hand with a running stitch all around. Then I would stretch it over bars with one piece of fome core behind. I would staple through the muslin into the back of the bars and add hangers.

I would charge about $100 for the sewing down alone or a buck a minute whichever comes first. I would also offer to talk her through the stitching down on the muslin if she wanted to do it herself. If she made the textile, she is quite capable of doing this part, I would tell her. She could also stitch it down with a sewing machine, making sure there are no creases or puckers in the muslin. If she does do it herself, it would be great if she tacked it down to the muslin in the heavier areas. She (or you) can add a think layer of batting in between the layers or underneath both, I don't think it would matter.

I would charge her a nominal amount for the muslin or she can certainly get her own or use some utility fabric she may have in her stash.

But I think it does need a backing.

I have done many textile pieces with this muslin technique and they stretch beautifully, no matter the weight on what it is being stretched. It works perfectly on supple, lightweight silk scarves, too, btw.

Shayla, let us know what you do with this.

edie the utilityframer goddess
 
I would make a strainer, cover it with fiberglass or polyester window screening, and cover that with thin quilt batting. Stitch to muslin as the Goddess tells you, and stretch the whole thing over the covered strainer.

But it wouldn't be cheap.
 
I would do almost the same as Ellen, but then I have the screenprinting material right next door. Just build a strainer, staple the screen to it and then sew the fabric to the screen. I'd probably add some batting to it as well. Not sure if at that point the muslin would be overkill.
 
I would make a strainer, cover it with fiberglass or polyester window screening, and cover that with thin quilt batting. Stitch to muslin as the Goddess tells you, and stretch the whole thing over the covered strainer. But it wouldn't be cheap.


Absolutely. I agree with Ellen 100%.
Chris Paschke
 
Thank you for commenting, Chris. I appreciate all the input here.
Do you buy the plastic screening or fiberglass at a local shop, or
from a framing supplier? Also, I'm curious if by 'attach', you mean
you wrap it around the strainer and staple on the back, or if you
only use a piece big enough to fill the 'down in' part of the strainer
(not the part that goes up at the outer edge), and if you attach it
some other way.
 
Thank you for commenting, Chris. I appreciate all the input here. Do you buy the plastic screening or fiberglass at a local shop, or from a framing supplier? Also, I'm curious if by 'attach', you mean you wrap it around the strainer and staple on the back, or if you only use a piece big enough to fill the 'down in' part of the strainer (not the part that goes up at the outer edge), and if you attach it some other way.


Screen is fiberglass window screen from hardware or home improvement store.
I am trying to attach image of a small sampler I use in classes. I wrap it around the bars with padding and cover.
Chris Paschke
 

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