stretcher wedger

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pigeon

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Merritt NC
Does anyone know of a source for "Stretcher Wedgers"? I have found them very useful for stretching canvas in other than 1" increments. I used to get them from United, but can't find them in their new catalog, nor in their on line catalog. If not, any suggestions for stretching an odd sized canvas so it is still adjustable? Thanks for any advise.
 
Those wedgers are pictured on an insert that came with some Mighty Mounts I bought in the past, and I've been trying to track them down too.

This is the number a United person gave me while in Las Vegas, 970-207-1032. I tried it this morning, got a recording, and have had no return call yet.

If you get a response, please let me and other grumblers too, please. They look so easy to use on one's own custom cut stock.
 
Joe,
You can cut stretcher bars that are larger than your canvas down by just cutting it on one end and leave the other end as a normal stretcher end. Cut cross corner ends and join the cut corners as you would any frame and you still have the ability to adjust with stretchers the other corners.

Or you can cut them in the middle of the bars to the correct size rejoin the ends to one another and keep all four corners for adjusting.
 
I think I asked this question elsewhere but don't think there was an answer posted: How much bigger can you go with the wedgers? If you get more than 1/2", it leaves a weird little notch in the outside corners. Isn't it just easier to cut down the regular bar with a diagonal cut, then glue and underpin? Or that deal of leaving two corners movable is pretty good as well.

My, what I learn on this board.
 
Originally posted by jvandy57:

Cut cross corner ends and join the cut corners as you would any frame and you still have the ability to adjust with stretchers the other corners.
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Jerry,

I'm (easily) confused. Does the above instruction result in only two, diagonal corners being stretchable? Or are you joining the two cut ends with only v-nails, then using the cross pieces to stretch them out, while the other two corners are stretched in the usual stretcher manner? (Where is the dumb and dumber graemlin?)(Why is this spelled "Graemlin" instead of "Gremlin"?)
shrug.gif
 
Originally posted by MerpsMom:

How much bigger can you go with the wedgers? Isn't it just easier to cut down the regular bar with a diagonal cut, then glue and underpin?.

Click to expand...
Cool. Now that I've learned the quote thingy, I need to do it again.

MM, don't know the answer to the first question, because I've never been able to get these to use them and haven't found anyone else who has.

As for cutting down a regular stretcher bar, I don't keep a regular saw in my shop and if I understand these things right, it couldn't be done on a chopper. Also, are you able to underpin a straight piece like this? I assumed it would take a mending plate to join after gluing because it wouldn't fit into a v-nailer. Or am I even more in need of that dumb/dumber gremlin?
 
Hiya, Mel: good to see you back
. No, not the dumb/dumber gremlin, but wouldn't that be neat?

You really can't use a double-mitre saw on the bars, but a single one will do if you shim under the bar. As for joining, we glue, then shim and v-nail. But mending plates work faster. The whole thing is a pain to me, actually. I think I like that nifty suggestion about just cutting two ends off and joining them as corners rather than taking a slice out of the middle somewhere.

OR...just tell them "no", you can't have a painting in uneven increments. Tell them it's bad for the canvas...or something equally as fallacious.

Looks like I'm spending my time goofing off today, I've been on this forum so much this afternoon. After finishing a very busy six days of stretching/framing twelve too-big oils, I didn't feel like slaving so hard so I'm doing Internet research on new CPU's for the shop computer. (That's working, isn't it?) And, of course, I have to check TG periodically for updates!

And (yeah!) I just doubled my connection speed from my modem by gritching to my ISP tech on the phone. One little settings change, and bingo. Lordy, those types are smart.

Mel, just saw your other post. I read it as you did: two joined non-movable corners and two movable ones. Jerry?
 
I know I'm slow but could it be that it would be a lot simpler to buy STRAINER stock and cut it to size ( whatever that might be) and join the ends by glueing and nailing? I am really confussed as to why you would want to have a half strainer half stretcher frame for the canvas.
I thought the idea of a stretcher frame was that it had two slots in each corner that allowed a more even tension and cutting corners ( No pun intended)seems to ruin the way it works. Especially since strainers ARE made to work without the keys.
Buddy
 
Thanks for all the input.
The reason I can't use even inch stretcher bars (this is a giclee on canvas) is there is so much detail and a signature very close to the bottom. I will have to leave some of the white border on top of the stretcher, so the signature doesn't get covered with the liner lip. I need an outside deminsion of about 11 3/8 x 16 5/8 for this to work. We also get a lot of Haition painting that are odd sizes.
Stretcher Wedgers are little plastic plates that gets screwed across the miter while the stetcher is in the vise. No glue is used. The stretcher bar has been cut down from an oversize piece of stock so the groved ends are gone. On the bottom of the plate is a small raised wedge positioned at the inside part of the joint. The bars are square from the vise, so no adjusting there, and after the canvas is stretched it can be "keyed" by loosening the four screws on each plate and pushing it so the little wedge forces the stretcher bars apart a bit, as keys would do.
They would probably allow about 1/8 inch gap fully inserted.
The idea of gluing two corners and leaving two with slots sounds interesting. Maybe I will give that a try. Thanks for the tip. Don't think I want to join one in the middle, though.
By the way, the directions in the last pack of wedgers I had said they were made by R & D framing, but no address, number, or any other info. I will try the number posted.
Thanks
 
Originally posted by MerpsMom:
Mel, just saw your other post. I read it as you did: two joined non-movable corners and two movable ones. Jerry?
Click to expand...
Yep thats the ticket, cut the ends off one end of the stretcher and join them leaving the cross diagonal corners as stretchers and the others as joined. Still able to evenly stretch out the canvas.

Buddy,
Strainer is not recommended because it's not adjustable and if the canvas begins to sag you can't remove it with out restretching it. However, I more often than not use Strainer Bar and tell the customer if it sags bring it back and I'll fix it. Haven't had to fix any yet.
 
Joe,

It is R & D Framing. Someone called me this morning at 6:00 am to tell me they don't sell them any more. I had the presence of mind to ask if anyone else did. The answer was that they had "broken" the mold, so "no". I didn't have the presence of mind to ask if it was on purpose. :rolleyes:

Anyway, glad to read these responses. New methods always interest me. Then, unless I get a reason to implement them immediately, I forget them. :rolleyes:
 
OK guys and gals here is how to solve your problem if you want to be able to use the keys in the corners of your canvas stretchers.

Choose the next larger size of stretcher bars for each side. You need a finished size of 11 3/8" X 16 5/8" so you would choose a pair of 12" stretchers and a pair of 17" stretchers.

Determine half the difference between the size you need and the stock stretcher size. (12"-11 3/8")/2 = 5/16". (17"-16 5/8")/2 = 3/16".

Run your stetcher bars through a table saw to reduce the width of the 17" bars by 5/16" and reduce the width of the 12" bars by 3/16". Note that the calculation done on one side determines the amount of reduction for the perpendiclar side. Remember to practice safe sawing, use protective eyeware. :cool:

When you assemble your stretchers you will have a rectangle that measures 11 3/8" X 16 5/8".

You will need to cut about a 1/4" off the pointy end of the wedges so that they do not protrude beyond the stretchers.
 
Bob,

That is a good way to downsize stretcher bars. I would add that, since you are cutting away the shoulder that holds the canvas away from the wooden part of the stretcher along with the bevelled outside edge, you may need to bevel the outside edge of each bar so that the edge doesn't cut through the canvas.

Also, check to make sure that there is still clearance on the inside edge of the stretchers so they don't push on the canvas and show up as a ridge on the art side of the canvas.

Framerguy
 
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