Stretcher Bar

[aaziz58601]

I am placing my first order for inventory and not trying to conquer the world (well at least not yet anyways ) I would like to carry one profile of stretcher bar what kind of recommendations do you have? ( I will be ordering from International Moulding) Thanks!

 

[Mary Beth van der Horst]

I'd say go with the standard SSB from International. Anything smaller is going to be useless most of the time. Anything bigger may be overkill. If needed, you can always beef it up with crossbars or order SBL for the bigguns

 

[wpfay]

You might want to look for a stretcher profile that can be turned on edge for gallery wraps. They are typically the same dimensions as the International SSB, but there is an added bead that allows you to turn the profile on edge. I get it through my local Palmetto Moulding Group distributor, but others handle it.

 

[alacrity8]

You might want to look for a stretcher profile that can be turned on edge for gallery wraps. They are typically the same dimensions as the International SSB, but there is an added bead that allows you to turn the profile on edge. I get it through my local Palmetto Moulding Group distributor, but others handle it.

We stock a .75" x 1.5" reversible Stretcher, but have yet to use it at it's larger size.
We always use 1.5" x 2" or greater for Gallery Wraps.

I second the SSB from International as a good starter stretcher.
I'd also consider getting the SBG2 for Gallery wraps.

 

[Gilder]

I am not sure what you are trying to do. Do you have corner samples of stretcher bars? I have four different sizes and
I would just wait until a customer placed an order for a canvas to be stretched and then would buy a box of that stretcher and so on until I have all four of them.

 

[JFeig]

My comment is to clarify the definition of "stretcher" vs "strainer".

When buying length moulding that is milled in a shape to make and assemble a 4 sided wood frame that supports a stretched canvas is simply "bar stock". The method of joining is where a functional name is attached to the finished product. This is either "stretcher " or "strainer".

• A strainer is a rigid 3 or more sided frame that have the corner joints secured with possibly glue, metal or wood fasteners (pegs). The corner joints once assembled, does not move to adjust the outside dimensions of the frame.
• A stretch is an "adjustable" frame that allows for the change in the outside dimensions of the frame. This adjustment allows to adding additional tension on the stretched material to keep it flat visually and mechanically. This can increase or decrease the tension on whatever is being stretched depending on the original starting joint gap when assembled. This is accomplished via several methods, one of which is interlocking fingers cut into the wood stock. Wedges and or other mechanical means control (secure) the separation of the 2 wood adjoining rail sides to sustain a given amount of tension.

 

[Matthew Hale]

to add to the above info - when stretching canvas (whether you're doing original paintings or giclees printed on canvas) you really want stretcher bars, not strainer stock. International sells standard size 3/4" light duty stretcher bars. if we need heavy duty bars (1.25" thick) we buy them retail from Blick (I like the Utrecht brand). if your canvas is not a standard size, you can have them custom made from someplace like Foster Planing Mill.

 

[aaziz58601]

when stretching canvas (whether you're doing original paintings or giclees printed on canvas) you really want stretcher bars, not strainer stock

So when or for what would you use the strainer stock?

 

[Nikodeumus]

I only do a handful of canvas every few months.
I buy "strainer stock" in 6 different sizes from LJ, ranging from 1/2" to 2".
(They label it as "Stretcher Bar" in the PDF catalog, but call it "Strainer Stock Stretcher" on their website. So a little confusing, yes.)
They have a "dual purpose" stock that can be used on the 3/4" or 1-1/2" side. I find it quite useful.

I only do strainer stretching of canvas, I have been considering trying out adjustable "stretcher" techniques as well.
I certainly agree that adjustable tensioning of canvas makes good sense.
However, I've been doing the method I use for over 10 years and have never had one brought back using this method.

Similar to Gilders suggestion, I only ordered what I needed to fulfill stretching jobs, until I had an idea of what sizes of bar stock were used the most.
Now I order the 2 most commonly used sizes in bulk, and only order the less common sizes when needed.

 

[JFeig]

Would anyone be interested in a PPFA class on how to modify standard sized adjustable "stretcher bars" by adding extra width to the bars?

As an example you have a painting that is 16.5" x 20.25". How to you use standard 16" and 20" factory made bars to get the job done easily? I would not mind teaching a class covering this topic.

 

[Matthew Hale]

Would anyone be interested in a PPFA class on how to modify standard sized adjustable "stretcher bars" by adding extra width to the bars?

As an example you have a painting that is 16.5" x 20.25". How to you use standard 16" and 20" factory made bars to get the job done easily? I would not mind teaching a class covering this topic.

i'd be curious to know how you do it.

 

[wpfay]

Strainer stock can be made into stretcher frames incorporating adjustable corner hardware. Jimmy LeBron (not James) developed the technique in the 60's using aluminum dowels and knockdown furniture hardware. I do something similar using dowels and external turnbuckles somewhat akin to the technique used by Jack Richeson Co. in their "Best Keys" for the pro-bar stretchers.
The dowels are inserted perpendicular to the miter faces and are trimmed flush on the outside at both ends and secured on one end with a small wire brad. The turnbuckle is attached fully collapsed to the inside of the miter on adjacent rails of the strainer stock with the miter being held tightly closed in a vise. Once the frame is assembled, the fabric is stretched as per normal and the turnbuckles are then expanded in an even fashion to tension the fabric.

The use of aluminum dowels is preferred to avoid the dowel expanding with humidity changes and getting stuck in place. LeBron typically used a 1" X 3" custom milled strainer profile. He developed the technique as an art handler having to get large oil paintings into small elevators ot through apartment doorways in NYC. It allowed him to disassemble the art and stretchers, move them to the space where they would reside, and reassemble them on site.

 

[Matthew Hale]

So when or for what would you use the strainer stock?

i don't.

 

[Rick Granick]

Strainer stock can be made into stretcher frames incorporating adjustable corner hardware. Jimmy LeBron (not James) developed the technique in the 60's using aluminum dowels and knockdown furniture hardware. I do something similar using dowels and external turnbuckles somewhat akin to the technique used by Jack Richeson Co. in their "Best Keys" for the pro-bar stretchers.
The dowels are inserted perpendicular to the miter faces and are trimmed flush on the outside at both ends and secured on one end with a small wire brad. The turnbuckle is attached fully collapsed to the inside of the miter on adjacent rails of the strainer stock with the miter being held tightly closed in a vise. Once the frame is assembled, the fabric is stretched as per normal and the turnbuckles are then expanded in an even fashion to tension the fabric.
View attachment 38632
The use of aluminum dowels is preferred to avoid the dowel expanding with humidity changes and getting stuck in place. LeBron typically used a 1" X 3" custom milled strainer profile. He developed the technique as an art handler having to get large oil paintings into small elevators ot through apartment doorways in NYC. It allowed him to disassemble the art and stretchers, move them to the space where they would reside, and reassemble them on site.

Wally, do you have a jig for drilling the dowel holes?

 

[wpfay]

Rick, When I first did this I just clamped the joint together in the ol' Stanley 400 and used a 1/4" twist bit in the corded power drill (at least I wasn't using a brace and bit). I didn't use a jig. I don't use this very much as there are other options that are not as time consuming. Most of the stretching I do is either cheap stuff digitally printed, or high end. One gets fixed strainers and the other usually gets Jack Richeson pro bars that are custom cut to length.
I do have a drill press now and would make a jig if I was going to be doing this often.

 

[Matthew Hale]

Rick, When I first did this I just clamped the joint together in the ol' Stanley 400 and used a 1/4" twist bit in the corded power drill (at least I wasn't using a brace and bit). I didn't use a jig. I don't use this very much as there are other options that are not as time consuming. Most of the stretching I do is either cheap stuff digitally printed, or high end. One gets fixed strainers and the other usually gets Jack Richeson pro bars that are custom cut to length.
I do have a drill press now and would make a jig if I was going to be doing this often.

do you get the richeson pro bars custom cut directly from Richeson, or elsewhere?

 

[wpfay]

Matthew, I have had Richeson chop it or send length and chopped it myself. The decision is based on cost. Chopping it is no big deal if you have a saw dedicated to metal. You just have to be careful about the location of the screws that hold the wood onto the outside of the aluminum core.
I don't know if Richeson will cut fractions of an inch or not. Only had one issue with sizing and it was from a metric conversion, so I cut that one myself.
I have seen other companies offering a similar product, but have no experience with those.

 

[Rick Granick]

On the facebook group framing.academy, we have been discussing this old piece of hardware that was once used to make stretchers adjustable. They are no longer made, but supposedly the patent is now in the public domain. It seems they would be a useful addition to our work. Calling Peter at 888... does this look like something you might be interested in making and offering for sale?
Rick

 

[Nikodeumus]

On the facebook group framing.academy, we have been discussing this old piece of hardware that was once used to make stretchers adjustable. They are no longer made, but supposedly the patent is now in the public domain. It seems they would be a useful addition to our work. Calling Peter at 888... does this look like something you might be interested in making and offering for sale?
Rick
View attachment 42972

For low-volume production, a 3D printer could easily make some of those.
Regular PLA filament seems to break fairly easily, but a carbon fiber reinforced filament might do the trick.
Maybe even better would be a CNC cutter? I've been tempted to get a hobby one for a few years.
Of course, the per-item cost would be much higher than mass-produced versions but would be fun to experiment with.

 

[Rick Granick]

These original ones appear to be cast iron or some similar metal.
Rick

 

[Steve Collins]

So when or for what would you use the strainer stock?

I only use strainers as bracing for frames that need the support. To stretch canvas, I always use stretcher bars.

 

[Eric A]

We order International's SBL at about 12 boxes a year. It is what we use the most. It is very sturdy and has minimal twists.

 

[posh_frames]

We stock a .75" x 1.5" reversible Stretcher, but have yet to use it at it's larger size.
We always use 1.5" x 2" or greater for Gallery Wraps.

I second the SSB from International as a good starter stretcher.
I'd also consider getting the SBG2 for Gallery wraps.

In this day and age, you see a lot of oversized canvases (actually prints on canvas in most cases) and you can't use SSB unless you put it in a frame. So I second the SBG2 as stock for gallery wraps and very big canvases. You need both sizes and braces usually as well.

 

[David Waldmann]

For low-volume production, a 3D printer could easily make some of those.
Regular PLA filament seems to break fairly easily, but a carbon fiber reinforced filament might do the trick.
Maybe even better would be a CNC cutter? I've been tempted to get a hobby one for a few years.
Of course, the per-item cost would be much higher than mass-produced versions but would be fun to experiment with.

Not sure what type of cutter you were thinking of, but a CNC water jet would probably be the best option. A plasma cutter may work but not sure if the edges would be as clean as what you'd want.

 

[Nicoo]

Strainer stock can be made into stretcher frames incorporating adjustable corner hardware. Jimmy LeBron (not James) developed the technique in the 60's using aluminum dowels and knockdown furniture hardware. I do something similar using dowels and external turnbuckles somewhat akin to the technique used by Jack Richeson Co. in their "Best Keys" for the pro-bar stretchers.
The dowels are inserted perpendicular to the miter faces and are trimmed flush on the outside at both ends and secured on one end with a small wire brad. The turnbuckle is attached fully collapsed to the inside of the miter on adjacent rails of the strainer stock with the miter being held tightly closed in a vise. Once the frame is assembled, the fabric is stretched as per normal and the turnbuckles are then expanded in an even fashion to tension the fabric.
View attachment 38632
The use of aluminum dowels is preferred to avoid the dowel expanding with humidity changes and getting stuck in place. LeBron typically used a 1" X 3" custom milled strainer profile. He developed the technique as an art handler having to get large oil paintings into small elevators ot through apartment doorways in NYC. It allowed him to disassemble the art and stretchers, move them to the space where they would reside, and reassemble them on site.

Hi @wpfay any advice on where I can find or how I can put together this type of turnbuckle? I’m very interested to know how you put this together. Thanks!

 

[wpfay]

Hi Nicoo, and welcome to the G.
You can get turnbuckles at any local hardware or home shelter store. They are probably available online as well.
They are regular turnbuckles with the eyes on the ends bent to a ~45 degree angle.

 

[Nikodeumus]

I too have looked for the type of turnbuckles you described both at local hardware stores and online, but haven't been able to locate any with angled ends.

I can only find standard straight eyelet, hook, or U-bolt ends.
Like these:

Can you provide a link to an actual product?

 

[wpfay]

P.S. I bend the ends myself.

Alternately you can use a paddle style drill bit (or a Forstner bit if you have a drill press) and cut a seat for an unbent turnbuckle in the edge of the stretcher bar.

Remember you are using them in the opposite way they were intended, so you need to start with them totally compressed.

 

[Mary Beth van der Horst]

Is a tite joint fastener basically the same thing as a turnbuckle? I keep running into them and thinking yeah maybe that would work to make an adjustable stretcher.

 

[Nikodeumus]

Is a tite joint fastener basically the same thing as a turnbuckle? I keep running into them and thinking yeah maybe that would work to make an adjustable stretcher.

Hey, those are interesting.

One would need the tools to drill and route the pockets and channels to install them.
A drill press with a Forstner bit, and a hand held router with a straight flat bit.

I recently inherited my Dad's woodworking shop, so have all kinds of tools to play around with.

Here's how they are used to hold a butcher block together.

As Wally said, they'd be used for spreading a corner joint rather than clamping.

Hmm... I'm going to have to go to the hardware store to get parts for experimenting.

 

[wpfay]

Something similar was used by Jimmy Lebron who developed the idea for stretchers . It was hardware normally used for knock down furniture.
It does require precise drilling, and building a jig would probably be in order.
Alignment pins would be necessary as the tite joint fasteners won’t serve that function.

 

[Nicoo]

@wpfay thanks so much! This is all very informative