Strap wrench for twisted moulding

[Dirk]

On moulding profiles that are not rectangular, we glue and clamp chevrons, then after the glue is set but not fully cured, glue and clamp the chevrons together. On twisted mouldings (believe it or not, such does exist), I ask the boss-lady for help. I grasp and twist the moulding while she operates the clamp. (We use MasterClamps.) In my dotage, I've developed a trigger finger in my left thumb and I'd like to avoid the manual exertion. Has anyone out there in GrumbleLand found a strap wrench with a design that would limit the risk of denting the moulding?

 

[wpfay]

You are joining torqued moulding and don't get a torqued frame?
Vivian was wrong, some framers are magicians!

Edit: No I have never seen such a tool. You might be able to screw a lever to the inside of the rebate to provide a better grip. Or a piece of angle iron with handle that screws into the foot and the rebate cheek.

 

[Dirk]

Oh, yeah. The frame winds up torqued, but that's what the glass is for, right? Tropical hardwoods that resemble balsa aren't hard to do manually. Some of the worst are what appears to be plantation-grown Southern Yellow Pine. Excessive resin, low ring count, and a high fraction of late wood. These are usually dense enough to make them harder to dent. I'm liking your idea of a temporary screw-in fixture. Clever.

 

[Shayla]

For the record, these aren't crazy-level twists.
Any of those, we have replaced.

But, we do sometimes get one with a leg on the borderline.
Since we want perfect corners, joining one can be a challenge.

 

[artfolio]

The trouble with twisting is that even if you bully the corner into joining tightly the strain on that joint is still there and over time the mitres will probably open up again. Twisted moulding is best returned or used to fire the barbecue.