tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
The AMS site does not state the capacity of a two-holed strap hanger. Anybody know?
Strap Hanger Question
- Thread starter tedh
- Start date
Artrageous
PFG, Picture Framing God
Is it an African or European strap hanger?
Sometimes it's a simple question of weight ratios.
Sometimes it's a simple question of weight ratios.
wcox
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Well I would think that would be difficult because there is more issues than just the strap hanger, also is type of wood its put in, also type and size of screw used and if you use wire on the strap hanger or a just one wall hanger per strap hanger. All factors in how much weight they can handle.
That's a good question.
Whenever I question the capacity of a two hole hanger, I go to a three hole, although I believe there is very little difference between them. The metal and the D-ring part are the same, just one more screw.
I have never seen a 2 hole or a 3 hole hanger fail from the frame.
Usually the weak link is the wall part and if a proper wall hanger isn't used it can fail.
What type of hook or molly is used, did you screw the hanger into a stud, metal stud or wood stud, etc.
tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
The reason I asked is this: we took in a job 45x38, needlework, with triple layers of mats and a foamcore buildup, to replace broken glass. Very heavy job. The frame is a narrow wood, somewhat like those nice Romas. The previous framer used twisted wire and two small d-rings on each rail. I reinforced the corners, added a center support top to bottom, and installed two-hole d-rings. No wires at all. Lots of good extras, but I'm curious about how good those strap d-rings are. I can't use the heavyweight d-rings because the frame is too narrow.
I think you are OK.
You were right to get rid of the wire.
As long as the wall part of the hanger is adequate, you're good to go.
Sometimes we send out frames with 2 d-rings and no wire and we always tell the clients "Don't string a wire between the d-rings!"
Sometimes we get things back for re-framing and we see where someone put a wire between the d-rings, even when there is a label telling them not to.
Then you see the d-rings are bent from the stress of the wire and the wrong angle on them.
The next step up would be z-bar or Wall Buddies and that's your choice depending on the circumstance, but I think you're OK.
You were right to get rid of the wire.
As long as the wall part of the hanger is adequate, you're good to go.
Sometimes we send out frames with 2 d-rings and no wire and we always tell the clients "Don't string a wire between the d-rings!"
Sometimes we get things back for re-framing and we see where someone put a wire between the d-rings, even when there is a label telling them not to.
Then you see the d-rings are bent from the stress of the wire and the wrong angle on them.
The next step up would be z-bar or Wall Buddies and that's your choice depending on the circumstance, but I think you're OK.
tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I'm putting the warning label on it, and I'm giving him two 50-lb hangers. The label has instructions on how to hang it.
Ted, for the sake of clarity, I'm thinking that you're using the bottom of these two items?
I rarely use the top one on anything (although we use the one hole version of it for small things),
but would feel comfortable using the bottom one on the project you've described.
I rarely use the top one on anything (although we use the one hole version of it for small things),
but would feel comfortable using the bottom one on the project you've described.
tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Top one. Frame is too narrow for the top one.
In my opinion, even the top one is OK.
Unless someone does chin-ups on the frame, the metal will not rip out.:kaffeetrinker_2:
I have done tens of thousands of frames with that hanger with no problems.
In 43 years I have never seen a frame come back with a broken strap hanger.
Pulled out screw eyes, yes. (and they were not installed correctly).
Failed strap hanger, no.
The only time I've seen straphanger problems was when customers would bring in
heavy framed art/mirrors purchased elsewhere (usually from furniture stores),
which had D-ring straphangers screwed on the side legs at angles with wire.
Over the years, the stress and angle would cause the d-rings to start pulling
away from the frames or otherwise distorting.
In a similar vein to your questions, I've always wondered how much weight these can handle:
We use them all the time, sometimes kiting the wire and using the four-hole version
with 100 pound steel wire. For pieces that seem to heavy for even that, we bump
up to the d-rings with no wire, then beyond that, enter the realm of security hangers
and Z-bar. But I always wonder what the capacities of the two shown are.
heavy framed art/mirrors purchased elsewhere (usually from furniture stores),
which had D-ring straphangers screwed on the side legs at angles with wire.
Over the years, the stress and angle would cause the d-rings to start pulling
away from the frames or otherwise distorting.
In a similar vein to your questions, I've always wondered how much weight these can handle:
We use them all the time, sometimes kiting the wire and using the four-hole version
with 100 pound steel wire. For pieces that seem to heavy for even that, we bump
up to the d-rings with no wire, then beyond that, enter the realm of security hangers
and Z-bar. But I always wonder what the capacities of the two shown are.
When the d-rings (strap hangers) are installed vertically without wires and people try to string a wire between them when they shouldn't, then you can have bent hangers and a problem.
As for the "narrow" 2 hole and four hole hangers shown, we use them about 80% of the time.
I don't like them on very heavy frames only because the edges of the rings where the wire passes through tend to be a little sharp.
I haven't really seen a problem but I feel that those sharp edges could eventually cut through the wire, although if the picture is hung and left alone the chance of the wire being cut by the rings is pretty remote.
tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I knew what you meant.
When I said the top one was OK I meant I thought it was strong enough for it's size and width.
Pat Murphey
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
If the rails are wide enough for the standard two hole d-ring, Wall Buddies would be good solution - much easier to level and with screws into both the top and side rails.
I live in an old house and sometimes a level doesn't give a "visual" level.
I live in an old house and sometimes a level doesn't give a "visual" level.
tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I thought about Wall Buddies, but for some reason, went with D-rings. I had already screwed in the L plates, so the corners were strengthened, and thought that the vertical pull was a big improvement over what was there before.
Sounds like you need a strainer.
tedh
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I also considered a strainer, but the package was flush to the back of the frame. I think I would have needed some space inside the frame to attach the two.
The previous framer used a big build-up of foam core to give depth to the subject - it was deeply recessed. Looks good from the front, but a bugger to strengthen.
I'm at home now - I'll take a picture when I get to the store.
The previous framer used a big build-up of foam core to give depth to the subject - it was deeply recessed. Looks good from the front, but a bugger to strengthen.
I'm at home now - I'll take a picture when I get to the store.
Jeff Rodier
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
To prevent a customer from adding wire to an item that should not get a wire I put the D-rings very high up on the frame. If the hangers are only a few inches from the top a wire and hanger would always protrude above the frame.
We put D-rings high, too. With enough room for a floreat hanger (or whatever kind)
and maybe just an inch above that to the top of the frame.
and maybe just an inch above that to the top of the frame.