Question Strainers-guidlines regarding wood

kuluchicken

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 2, 2012
Posts
564
Loc
Auckland, New Zealand
I was just wondering what wood you guys normally use for your strainers? I realize that the size is dependent on the size of the frame. Would you mind sharing rough guidelines in terms of the general thickness's etc with me please?

Do you source the wood from a hardware store and rip it up yourselves or ?

Thanks so much

Michele
 
I use "screen stock " poplar or finger joined pine. I have seen the cut down from ply wood too.
 
I select the thickness (1/2 inch vs. 3/4 inch) based on how deep the frame is. I can strengthen either thickness with corner braces and cross braces.
 
I use both poplar and basswood. 1/2" x 2" beveled, 3/4" x 1 3/4" beveled, and a 3/4" x 1 3/4" S4S (no bevel) The bevel makes for easy cleat hanging. Poplar is great because it is nice and tough compared to the bass, but the bass is much lighter. I also have better luck getting long consistent straight sticks out of bass. And I get it milled.
 
I like Hedge wood from NZ..... grows tall, solid and stout.

Here's some little starts..... the big ones are on the South Island.... where the real wind blows.

DSC02124.jpg


There are about five companies in the US milling strainer stock. Most honest framers will tell you which
company they buy them from. Most of the strainer stock will be Southern Yellow Pine, or poplar.

I don't understand Scallywag using basswood as the tinsel strength, arch load, and stress-bearing dynamics
are grossly inferior to the pine or poplar. And the raw cost structure is higher than the other two. But if it's
ligneous, tanin or conservation based, I'm all ears.

I would have thought at least LJ down there supplies strainer stock. Who supplies slip for liners?
 
I have used a line of wood from Home Depot called "Select Pine" from Claymark out of NZ.
It is very clear, very straight length stock of 1x2, 1x4, etc. No knots, curves, twists or sap.
www.claymark.com
 
I don't understand Scallywag using basswood as the tinsel strength, arch load, and stress-bearing dynamics
are grossly inferior to the pine or poplar. And the raw cost structure is higher than the other two. But if it's
ligneous, tanin or conservation based, I'm all ears.

Then feast your ears on this. Our stock strainer material is basswood, and all but two of our customers that we mill custom for use basswood. The reason is very simple (you really know all this already): strainers are required when you have a large frame made from a small moulding, therefore the straightness and stability of the strainer is of primary importance. Yes, bass is more expensive. Yes, you also have to use a larger dimension of that more expensive material to achieve the same strength. But if you want your frame to stay straight and flat for the long run, and price is not paramount, use bass. There are other materials that can be very good as well, such as good quality finger-jointed pine. But I would recommend staying away from poplar - it just likes to twist and warp too much.

One of the two custom mills is poplar, but the other one is soft maple (3/4 to 1" x 3 to 4"). That's for very large, very heavy frames. And they do lap-joint cross bars, so the strainer alone is almost as heavy as a covered bridge.

Ok, you can close your ears now and cogitate on that for a while. ;)
 
I remember the time when basswood was the basis of many quality mouldings. Ivy Industries used to make most of their finished (non-cherry) mouldings out of it, and most of their patterns were available unfinished too if desired.
:cool: Rick

P.S. Tinsel strength is only an issue at Christmastime.
 
Shocked! Shocked I say.... okay, maybe not....

David already outed me. I get it .. . but unlike draping aluminum foil
strips on a Noble fir . . I'm always going for the lightweight and strong.

Under the lack of pressure of moulding, the stability of basswood makes
sense....... but under the strain of a canvas or the need of a strainer
to be the strength for a trim moulding..... stability is only one of three
functions.

What I don't understand is why nobody has ever run Alder. Stable, forms beautifully
and has a tinsel strength close to quarter sawn oak. it also takes stain better than
bass, pine or oak

Rick..... I'll tell you what to do with your christmas tree the same as I told that little angel..... :p
 
They do have wood for strainers that get used for stretching canvases which are obviously more pricy because they are slanted and rounded especially for that purpose.

Stop. You're killing me.

Is this for you . . . . or a customer?

IF it's for you.... :shutup:

if it's for a customer.... who cares if it's more pricy? You or them?

If it's a little more pricey, that means your profit is higher.
 
Um....in NZ people are very price conscious....well, that is my experience so far. The other New Zealanders can jump in and give their opinions.

I would rather push up the price that they finally spend on better mouldings, mat-boards, mounting boards and decorative techniques and pass on a saving if I can source strainer wood at a better price, if it would contribute to the a fore mentioned.
 
Baer,

What an attitude; if it's more pricey for the customer, who cares? In my business , I can tell you cares, me. And I might add, in most instances the customer. Every buying decision of ours a is predicated on getting the lowest price for our customers.

I think Baer's attitude is all too common in our little industry which may explain it's current problems. I hope this isn't news to Grumblers, but the demand for our products isn't inelastic. In fact it's very elastic, probably the most elastic demand/supply relationships in our economy. The higher the price, the lower the demand and that means fewer customers.

All the discussions here about the problems of the framing business seem to avoid the elephant in the room: the cost of our products. There are endless discussions about how to make our product more expensive and very, very few on how to lower prices. My shops are not running near capacity so if there is an opportunity to lower cost by adding labor, we jump on it. After some 34 years, that attitude seems to have served us well. The cost of strainer material, which btw, we make out of whatever is lying around our cabinet shop, is probably marginal but it's the way of thinking that "so what if it costs more, we'll just pass the extra costs along to the customer" that disturbs me. An attitude that eventually leads the customer to pass up us.

I almost hesitate to say this because it's antithetical to so much I read here but it's entirely possible to run a shop based on low cost, high quality, and excellent service. We've been doing it for we've been doing it from the beginning.

Lower costs, greater demand.
 
Thank you Warren, when I tried to explain to framers at the convention that my business grew by 22.8% last year on the principle of offering the best price I could (while maintaining gross margin %) I was almost laughed at.

One person laughed and said "if I wasn't going for highest Gross Margin DOLLARS on every sale, I was loosing money."

Why don't more people in our industry understand that NO sale is in isolation by itself?

One framer kept talking about allocating variable labor cost, like he was at capacity or something!
 
I've been using Radiata pine from local home shelter retailers. It comes in .75" X 1.5-3.5" and I go through about 4 "contractor" packs to get the 8-12 sticks I need. I know constuction lumber isn't dried enough for framing purposes, but this is in the area with poplar and oak and I am working under the possibly erroneous assumption that it is dry and stable enough to use for strainers. Any thoughts?
 
I have used a line of wood from Home Depot called "Select Pine" from Claymark out of NZ.
It is very clear, very straight length stock of 1x2, 1x4, etc. No knots, curves, twists or sap.
www.claymark.com

I've been using Radiata pine from local home shelter retailers. It comes in .75" X 1.5-3.5" and I go through about 4 "contractor" packs to get the 8-12 sticks I need. I know constuction lumber isn't dried enough for framing purposes, but this is in the area with poplar and oak and I am working under the possibly erroneous assumption that it is dry and stable enough to use for strainers. Any thoughts?

I believe that it's the same stuff that I have used and posted with the link for info.
In the link they call it "Radiata Pine".
 
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