Stapler info needed

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framer1

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
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Tennessee
I want to get a air stapler but not sure what to look for. We have Lowes in town and didn't know if they would have what I need
 
I use an upholstery stapler that I got online. The brand I have is Unicatch. It has been good for me over 8 years..
 
framer1 said:
I want to get a air stapler but not sure what to look for. We have Lowes in town and didn't know if they would have what I need
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You don't say what you want the stapler to do.......

A "fitting" stapler shoots a narrow gauge "wider crown" wire staple like a Senco CO8 that will not be flush to the nose. We use SJS guns that use a wire gauge staple and have a grounded driver so they will not shoot flush.

A stapler that shoots a flush staple uses a flatter staple like an Arrow T-50 and would be appropriate for stretching some types of canvas. We use a Senco SJS body that takes a wider crown staple.

A "narrow crown" stapler is used in construction (we use it to make crates for shipping) and it shoots and COUNTERSINKS a staple that is about 3/16" wide - but that would not work well to stretch a canvas (would puncture through the canvas) and would not work well for fitting as the gauge is too heavy. We use BEA guns for construction.

Then there is the consideration of an "oil" type vs and "oil-less" type.

For use in a frame shop, especially in a fitting environment, an oil-less type is the most appropriate. With an oil-type, drops of oil are (should be) put into the air intake to lubricate the piston and keep the seals from drying out. The disadvantage is that the exhaust may contain or spray oil. With an oil-less gun, the piston and seals do not require lubrication.

Also, guns sold by Home Depot and Loews may be hard to repair or find parts for. Guns like those made by Senco have service centers nationwide. I would look at a Senco SJS type gun (Larson sells them and the staples).

Cassese and Fletcher also make air fitting tools that use flexipoints or framemaster points. Larson also sells those (and the points) as well. They are designed for fitting.
 
Cranky About Staplers and Brad Nailers

Every one has jammed. I keep on buying replacements, and they keep on jamming. Must be the mountain air. The only one that hasn't jammed is that cheapo Stanley electric, but you do get what you pay for.
 
tedh said:
Every one has jammed. I keep on buying replacements, and they keep on jamming. Must be the mountain air. The only one that hasn't jammed is that cheapo Stanley electric, but you do get what you pay for.
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Do you service your air lines to remove unwanted water from the line?

Do you add lubricant to the stapler?

I place a drop or two of this in the stapler.

400.jpg
 
I've only used 1 drop of oil in it 2 times in 3 years and 40,000 staples. Cheap and easy to replace seals and the cylinder will last 5-10 years before wearing out and those are cheap and easy to replace also. 99% of the time it is used for bubble corners on ready mades so it is run at 100PSI rather than the 40 PSI recommended.

If the primary purpose is stretching canvas the 22 gauge wire staples are too fine for quality works of art. When stretching Chinese "Starving Artist" paintings it is just the ticket. It can be used for fitting by holding it back a bit from the moulding. If you have the need to frame some prefab artwork going to a third world nation be sure to shoot several hundred staples in each rail of the frame just for revenge. :shutup:
 
Artrageous said:
Do you service your air lines to remove unwanted water from the line?

Do you add lubricant to the stapler?
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They don't get used enough to worry about water. For some stupid reason, the trigger goes "numb" - pull it, and the *#@$%& thing doesn't fire. I'm jinxed. Don't forget - I'm one of the bright lights leading the list of really average people in the Sheep thing. Takes brains to operate a stapler.
 
Well you are from Canada... so I'll speak s..l..o..w..l..y

Do you have a compressor? Do you drain it regularly? I don't mean just empty the air. You need to loosen the nut on the bottom and drain all the excess water regularly.

What pressure do you keep the compressor at?


The 'numb' trigger sounds like a blockage rather then an air leaking past the seals. What type of lines do you use to carry the air from the compressor to the guns? If it's pipe, the water can cause rust which flakes off and clogs the air entering the gun. This could stop the trigger from actuating and releasing any air into the cylinder.
 
Artrageous said:
Well you are from Canada... so I'll speak s..l..o..w..l..y

Do you have a compressor? Do you drain it regularly? I don't mean just empty the air. You need to loosen the nut on the bottom and drain all the excess water regularly.

What pressure do you keep the compressor at?


The 'numb' trigger sounds like a blockage rather then an air leaking past the seals. What type of lines do you use to carry the air from the compressor to the guns? If it's pipe, the water can cause rust which flakes off and clogs the air entering the gun. This could stop the trigger from actuating and releasing any air into the cylinder.
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I have a monster Coleman that powers the Wizard and runs the guns. The Wizard runs at 100, and I torque it down for the guns. Rubber hoses - the premium service station variety. Water is drained periodically, but there's almost no water coming out due to infrequent running.

I should have an expert look at the guns - I'm thinking they're not at the right pressure. What's weird is that I never had a problem with them at the workshop - I have an offsite shop for chopping and joining.
 
tedh said:
What's weird is that I never had a problem with them at the workshop - I have an offsite shop for chopping and joining.
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Could the difference be your air supply? Pneumatic tools of all kinds work better and last longer when the supply air is clean, dry, and lubricated.

My old staplers are wearing out, so I'm saving up my lunch money to buy a Senco SFT10XP. This one is a professional-grade stapler that drives a variety of staples; 20 to 22 gauge, 3/16" to 1/2" crown, 5/32" to 5/8" length. Several sizes of stainless steel staples are available, which are handy for stretching canvas.

In order to prevent fine wire staples from cutting canvas during stretching, place scrap matboard under the staples. I like to use strips about 3/4"x the length of each side, but small patches would work as well. The matboard strips also protect the stretched canvas from edge abrasions during handling before framing.
 
Artrageous said:
Well you are from Canada... so I'll speak s..l..o..w..l..y

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Well you are from the USA, so I'll remind myself that we have O..I..L N..A..T..U..R..A..L.....G..A..S.. and many more natural resources that you love so much.

nickel iron ore hydro power maple syrup Justin Beiber

Now take Justin Beiber: please.
 
tedh said:
Well you are from the USA, so I'll remind myself that we have O..I..L N..A..T..U..R..A..L.....G..A..S.. and many more natural resources that you love so much.
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We have an unlimited supply of that stuff, we just aren't allowed to use any of it. I guess when you run out is when we will start selling it to you. :shutup:
 
I use :icon19: Porter Cable Model US58T2 Upholstery Stapler. You buy one on Amazon for about $90.00. Senco staples fit perfectly in my Porter Cable.

>Porter Cable Model US58T2
>>Senco Stables

I purchased TWO of these about 8 years ago. I use both, in case one goes out on me. In the 8 years i have been using 'em, only ONCE did a have a problem with one of them... an oring needed to be changed.

MC
 
Many pneumatic staplers suitable for canvas stretching drive the staple in too far sometimes cutting the canvas.

Empty the stapler and pull the trigger to see how far the plunger sticks out. If it does, and most do, take it to the grinder and grind the plunger flush with the body with the trigger is pulled. If necessary take the gun apart and grind the plunger back even more.

This has worked for both staplers that I've used over the past 40 plus years - still going strong on #2 (keep them clean and oiled)
 
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