Squaring Up A Morso Chopper

There is a right and left FENCE that can be adjusted. It is front facing vertical portion of the machine attached to the flat "feed ins" and "feed outs". I would raise the knives and lock them out of the way and use a carpenters square (long side) to see if the right and left fences are parellel. Once this is done retighten the bolts holding the fences in place.
 
First of all, you must be sure the blades are properly sharpened (true hollow ground). Without sounding too fanatical about it, this is probably by far the most important thing. It's like the foundation of a house - if it's not done right nothing else will come out right.

Then take a fairly wide piece of soft wood (like basswood), about 4-6" long and miter both ends of it from the same side of the chopper. Then use a square to see if it is square. If not, adjust the fence on that side until it's perfect. Now you should be able to take a straight-edge and line up the other fence with the one you adjusted. Test it using the same miter both ends on the same side procedure.

Another potential problem is that the handle lock is worn out, or the handle lock assembly (the relation of the handle to the lock) is not adjusted properly. When you push the handle all the way in it should stay there and not move away unless you push down on it first. On small mouldings in soft woods with sharp knives you can get away with the lock not working properly. However, cutting a wide moulding, especially in a harder wood, the knife block will try to move away from the fence. You cannot hold it by hand, you need the lock.

There are other possibilities, such as the ways (where the knife block slides up and down) may be worn and need to be adjusted or re-machined, or the joints in the assembly that moves the knife block back and forth may be worn.

If everything is tight (push the handle all the way in, grab the back of the knife block with your hands and shake it back and forth. If it doesn't shake, rattle or roll you're probably good there) then knife sharpness and fence adjustment should take care of it.
 
The blades must be sharp. I have noticed that when you cut thick profiles with dull blades it actually pushes the profile down in the front and lifts it up in the back. The causes the miter to be really bad.

If the blades are sharp here is how to set the chopper.

You adjust the left 'fence' to true miters.

Put a straight edge across both fences. Make them flush with each other and the guide (the long part off to the right where you measure moulding.)

Take a wide flat profile and cut four piece equal length.

Join them with an underpinner.

Note where the joints are open. Inside or outside.

If the mitre is open on the inside of the frame, move the left fence toward the blades.

If the mitres are open on the outside move the left fence away from the blade.

Make sure the adjustments are very slights. Any adjustment is magnified 8 times on the finished frame.
 
I would pretty much echo what David and Jay say about the blades, locking arms, wobble, etc.

When faced with having to readjust the fences after cutting weird angles, I remove the sliding stop completely from the table and grab a 10’ length of aluminum moulding and place it on the table. I usually use a Nielsen #75 stick if I have it; aluminum, to my mind, is more likely to be straight and true than wood.

With the moulding flat and secure on the right side of the Morsø, unlock and readjust the movable fences so that they are both just touching the moulding throughout, then lock the fences again. This ensures that the fences will, at least, be completely parallel with the right section of the table.

The angle between the two blade is a nonadjustable 90°. But even if the blades are not completely perpendicular to the table (which is rather unlikely), the differences will even out. For example, if the table is 1° off from the perpendicular to the blade set, the right miter will be +0.5° and the left miter will be –0.5°, so the join at the vise will still be good.
 
Everything the above learned sages state is correct, and I would just stress to....

S H A R P E N - Y O U R - B L A D E S ! ! ! ! ! !

Sharp blades have a significant effect on a cutting true 45 degree miter that is also perpendicular to the ground. It's that third dimension that causes the problem with dull blades and it is more obvious with wider mouldings.
 
Magnolia ,you have heard from the EXPERTS now let a no longer chopping dumby give you an obvious tip that may be being over looked. All those mechanical tips or way over my head. However I did think immediately about the hardwood problem.(it can nudge the moulding down as it goes through if the blades are dull. ) However the mannual highly recommends taking SMALL ,REPETATIVE bites ,especially the last two.The reason being that even with a sharp blade big bites can produce the same effect as hardwood with dull blades. In fact the last cut is supposed to be something like and 1/8 of an inch different to produce a SMOOTH cut. But the same is true when making the cuts comeing to those last two.It may be a pain to cut and cut again but it makes a big differance espically in either hard wood or large profiles and God knows that id you have booth ,make many small cuts.
BUDDY
 
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