I would pretty much echo what David and Jay say about the blades, locking arms, wobble, etc.
When faced with having to readjust the fences after cutting weird angles, I remove the sliding stop completely from the table and grab a 10’ length of aluminum moulding and place it on the table. I usually use a Nielsen #75 stick if I have it; aluminum, to my mind, is more likely to be straight and true than wood.
With the moulding flat and secure on the right side of the Morsø, unlock and readjust the movable fences so that they are both just touching the moulding throughout, then lock the fences again. This ensures that the fences will, at least, be completely parallel with the right section of the table.
The angle between the two blade is a nonadjustable 90°. But even if the blades are not completely perpendicular to the table (which is rather unlikely), the differences will even out. For example, if the table is 1° off from the perpendicular to the blade set, the right miter will be +0.5° and the left miter will be –0.5°, so the join at the vise will still be good.