I am looking for the barrier sheet that goes between the blotter and the japanese/rice starch hinge. I got some years ago in a kit, ordered more from United and only the blotters and mylar came in the box.
spun bound polyester
- Thread starter Melinda Tennis
- Start date
Cut up a clean Tyvek envelope from an office supply store. Tyvek is a brand name of spun polyester.
DGBuck
True Grumbler
Melinda,
Go to the fabric store and buy a couple yards of a lightweight pellon. The thinner, the better. This IS spun bound polyester. It's cheap and you can cut it up into whatever size pieces you want. Dispose of these often because they will pick up dirt and crud from use, and could transfer the stuff back onto your artwork.
Also, Tyvek is not really a suitable material for this purpose. Although Tyvek is "breathable" it is more of a water barrier than a membrane that will READILY allow the passage of water and water vapor. The purpose of the spun bound polyester, in drying hinges, is to prevent the hinge from sticking to the blotter and yet still allow the quick absorption of water from the hinge into the blotter. Hope this helps.
Go to the fabric store and buy a couple yards of a lightweight pellon. The thinner, the better. This IS spun bound polyester. It's cheap and you can cut it up into whatever size pieces you want. Dispose of these often because they will pick up dirt and crud from use, and could transfer the stuff back onto your artwork.
Also, Tyvek is not really a suitable material for this purpose. Although Tyvek is "breathable" it is more of a water barrier than a membrane that will READILY allow the passage of water and water vapor. The purpose of the spun bound polyester, in drying hinges, is to prevent the hinge from sticking to the blotter and yet still allow the quick absorption of water from the hinge into the blotter. Hope this helps.
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Duane gave a good explanation of the role of
the spun polyester, however, it one is intent on
removing the mositure from the hinge as rapidly
as possible, hand drying with desiccated blotter is most useful. The blotter cards can be dried
in a heat press and stored in a clean cookie tin.
After the hinge has been pasted out and set in
its proper position, one of the dry cards can be
VERY briefly pressed on to it and then lifted off
and a fresh portions of the card can be pressed on
to the hinge for increasingly long intervals, until the hinge has been blotted half a dozen times or more. At that point, the hinge should be dry enough that it can have a non-desiccated card
set on it with a weight and if a piece of spun
bond polyester (Hollytex is another variety)
can be added, if desired, between the hinge
and the blotter.
Hugh
the spun polyester, however, it one is intent on
removing the mositure from the hinge as rapidly
as possible, hand drying with desiccated blotter is most useful. The blotter cards can be dried
in a heat press and stored in a clean cookie tin.
After the hinge has been pasted out and set in
its proper position, one of the dry cards can be
VERY briefly pressed on to it and then lifted off
and a fresh portions of the card can be pressed on
to the hinge for increasingly long intervals, until the hinge has been blotted half a dozen times or more. At that point, the hinge should be dry enough that it can have a non-desiccated card
set on it with a weight and if a piece of spun
bond polyester (Hollytex is another variety)
can be added, if desired, between the hinge
and the blotter.
Hugh
Greg Fremstad
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I think you're making more of a big deal about hinging with wheat paste than necessary. Watch the short video of Kris Anderson (paper conservator of 30+ years) demonstrate hinging on the FrameTek web site at <http://www.frametek.com> It's a free video! If you watch all the way to the end you'll learn a very slick method of learning how long to wait between pasting and hinging. This is the most important part of wheat paste hinging.
Thank you all. I thought it looked like Pellon.