Source for 'T' moulding

[Cliff Wilson]

I just had my fourth request this year for a "picture over a mirror" for "the hall." I have asked my current suppliers and none of them have profiles with a supporting 'T' profile style.

I don't have a router.

So, where would you get a profile with a coordinating 'T'? Or how would you accomplish the task without a router or table saw?

 

[wpfay]

Glue two "L" mouldings back to back.

Federal mirrors and Trumeaus (sp?) both have the combination mirror and picture. Often the mullion is coordinated with the frame and other times it is a simple dividing device. You can use prefinished square caps back to back, or you can get a variety of choices from places like Fosters Planing Mill or Xylo Industries that require some assembly and finishing.

 

[Cliff Wilson]

Wally, How would you cut and join the "miter" at the ends of the crosspiece? I tried just "connecting" two frames, but it just looked like two frames slapped together.

 

[Bob Doyle]

DonMar carries (carried) T mouldings (4AA and 144AA) in their catalog. I never ordered them but have always kept that little factoid in my head for future use.

They look like the Decor 8712 or LJ 221-603 mouldings. As for joining I did one once by takinf a bite out of the middle of one leg of a frame with my chopper, and nibbling an arrow point on the crossmember, again with my chopper. Then joined them by shooting in a nail with my brad gun. Worked byut the moulding I used was thick so it was more forgiving than the ones I see in the DonMar catalog.

Good luck with the project (from a framer who lives in Tatnic Maine!)

 

[wpfay]

The joint for thew mullion is usually a butt joint and I cut it with a coping saw. I cut the pieced to fit between the two rabbets and scribe the face of the mullion. I cut down through the face to the rabbet and then cut parallel to the face to make a notch.

You will have better success if you use unfinished moulding, gluing two lengths back to back and fill/prime/ and finish to match the frame.