Son of Object Mounting... Reprise

[Framing Goddess]

This is an older post masquerading as a new thread because I am very curious about what
may be the best way to deal with the parchment...

BTW, Jim, the stabiltex worked beautifully on the painting and we had the perfect scrap
left over from last year's monster quilt project.

The old thread...
http://www.thegrumble.com/framer/ubbs/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002677

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Okay, here is this dang thread again...

First:
I think I have figured out a way to mount the doors... there are holes along the sides of
the doors (something to do with the plastic/molding process?) and I think it will work out
quite nicely to use bent metal rods covered with that nifty shrink tubing and just kind of
poke 'em in there. I'll get some pics later and post them after I beg Ron again.

Second:
Today's mounting query...
I have to mount a (yes- valuable) Indian (?) painting on what the customer thought was
maybe porcelain or then she thought (God forbid) ivory. The painting is small approx. 3" x
4" and very light, of course. It does not lay flat, though; it is convex. And yes, we would like
to frame it (as preservator would say) "edges exposed."
Any thoughts?

Third:
We also have an old "illumination" painted on parchment, this customer swears is from the
17th century. You know the type- Big initial, then lots of music notes. Painted on both
sides. Not faux-parchment texture either, but a hunk of skin. It is curling a bit on the
corners and the rest of it does not even come close to being considered flat.
This is what I found in the archives...
http://www.thegrumble.com/cgibin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000436&p=
How do we mount this with "edges exposed?"

That's all for now....

edie the fg

 

[framah]

Third... How about sandwiching the parchment between 2 pieces of glass and then sealing the edges shut with tape. This way, it will lay flat and a mat (if wanted) over the glass on both sides plus glass again (both sides) and into the frame. Total of 4 pieces of glass.

 

[Rebecca]

# 2 and 3 -

How about deep-enough sink mats with little hinges threaded through slots in the backboard for added security? I don't think wheat starch hinges would work on either (unwanted moisture).

When I want archival quality, pressure sensitive, mending tape/hinges, I make them from
Japanese paper and an acrylic emulsion called Lascaux HV 360 (available from archval
suppliers). I put the paper on polyethylene plastic sheeting, brush the adhesive onto it, and let it dry for a day or so before using (leave 1/4" or so of the paper "unadhesived" as it's tough to peel off otherwise). If I need something really tacky, or double-sided, I add more coats. It's pressure sensitive, but LOW heat will increase the bond strength. It's reversible with low heat or polar solvents like acetone/ethanol (use solvents very sparingly!). It can be stored between sheets of polyethylene, and

In a pinch, you could probably get away with Framer's Delite hinging tape which is more or less reversible with non-polar solvents like odorless thinner and xylene (again, use sparingly!). Don't know the long term effects of the tape on artworks though.

On the subject of reversibility, I've often wondered why my test samples of P90 and Framer's Delight are reversible, but in real life I can rarely remove them from artworks, and have mostly given up trying. One thought is that framers might burnish the tape in place to increase its tack. Is this a common practice?

Rebecca

 

[Framing Goddess]

Originally posted by Rebecca:
One thought is that framers might burnish the tape in place to increase its tack. Is this a common practice?

Rebecca

yep.

Thanks for the info on the acrylic emulsion, Rebecca. I think I can handle that! But hopefully I can do it without adhesives.. (no comments, Ron and Charles!) I am thinking of Japanese paper corner pockets that "blend" color-wise or perhaps edge clips (is that the proper term...?) I will keep ya'll posted.