sheepskin

Melinda Tennis

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
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I have 4-16 x 22 antiphonal pages my customer wishes to be sandwiched between two pieces of UV acrylic, with a 2" border between them and the frame. Do any of ya'll have a suggestion for what adhesive to use. Two or three
shrug.gif
dots of the Lascaux 360?
 
The Lascaux is a good idea - maybe make a double sided "tape" using the Lascaux 360 and Japanese tissue, to apply to top and bottom corners to anchor it to back sheet of Plexi. Let the adhesive dry on the Japanese paper overnight before using.

Perhaps you could incorporate spacers at the edges (hidden by frame rabbet) so that the package is more like a plexi box, giving parchment/medium some space to move etc. rather than squashing the two sheets together and risking tight ripple and/or paint etc sticking to Plexi.

Best,

Rebecca
 
...I have 4-16 x 22 sheepskin antiphonal pages my customer wants
sandwiched between two sheets of UV acrylic. Two japanese paper hinges,
dried overnight with Lascaux 360, at the top back, and two tiny ones
halfway down, sound good? Jennifer suggested tiny spacer to keep the
sheepskin from looking and being squished. It's wrinkly enough to have good
friction support with a 1/16 or 1/8" spacer....
(Melinda, I like this quote from HH better, as it is more descriptive.)

A "sandwich mount" as you described is OK for decorative-only items without long term value. But if the items have some value, then the pressed-mount assembly (glazing/item/glazing) may be isolated from ambient changes. In a typical frame assembly, that means a generous air gap in front, and filler boards in back. In your case, air gaps front and back would serve the purpose of defeating condensation and reducing stresses from fast or radical changes of temperature and/or humidity. That is, mount the page between two "inner" layers of acrylic, and then place that mount assembly between two "outer" layers -- a total of four layers of glazing.

Also, an item of *significant* value should not be pressed between the inner glazings, as pressing the skin may cause further wrinkles and creases. I would suggest hinging to the inner-back sheet as you described, and then adding enough spacer between the two inner glazings to prevent contact with the inner-front layer (front glazing/air gap/item/back glazing). This way, all of the skin's 3-dimensional character would be unchanged. Then, place the mount assembly between two outer glazings with generous spacers front & back.

You are wise to use UV filtering acrylic, as it has half the weight and 20 times the shatter-resistance of glass. Especially if you use four layers of glazing as described above, the weight of glass could be a problem. However, you may want to consider upgrading to optically-coated, anti-reflection acrylic, which is nearly invisible in proper lighting. It is available with 98% UV-filtering, or without. Of course it is more costly, so perhaps you would want to use it only on the two front layers of glazing.
 
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