Question Sheepskin diplimas

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katieframe

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I have been having trouble for years when it comes to sheepskin. Am I wrong in thinking that sheepskin cannot be put in a heat press? The Citadel diplomas are sheepskin and they are sent in a tube of about 1 1/2" diameter. It is next to impossible to get them unrolled and they never go flat. Look awful. How do others deal with this problem?
 
You are correct, no dry mounting. Old school framers would wet mount these, but there is an inherent risk.
Lately, instead of sending these things in for conservation* (the paper conservator I use really dislikes working on these and charges accordingly) we have been scanning them, making digital corrections and printing them out for framing. The only things that don't translate well are foil emblems and wax seals...and that blue ribbon that UVa insists on weaving through the document.
* I have never seen a single example of a sheepskin diploma that laid flat unless it was wet mounted. Treatment will flatten them, but it doesn't prevent the diploma from cockling again when exposed to humidity.
 
I've done a few of these and they are always a PIA. The wet method is the only way I do them and it takes weeks to finish one off.
Use the search for sheepskin framing or diploma mounting to get detailed info on the wet method. I learned from JRB about this when I started out in framing. A great teacher on the G.
By the way the diplomas should come with instructions on the wet method and to take it to a qualified framer.
 
Wet mounting is not without its conservation problems, either.

It is not in the nature of skins to stay flat. You can flatten them (search here under 'humidity chamber" and then look for 'papyrus'), or send them out to be flattened; not an expensive treatment, but drying time is two weeks. An 8 ply window mat should be used, covering as good a portion of the document. There should be at least 1 1/2 inches between the edge of the document and the rabbet of the frame to allow for expansion and contraction. Skins are very susceptible to changes in RH, and even in a sealed mat package they will move and wrinkle over time. The good thing about not wet mounting them, but hinging them (top only, with fewer, wider hinges) is that they are easy to remove to be worked on when the time comes. Which it will.
 
A customer just came in yesterday with a Constitution printed on sheepskin and said that it needs to be in a shadow box set back from the glass at least 3 inches because of the nature of sheepskin??? I was scratching my head as to why she was told this.

Any reason for the glass to be that far from sheepskin??
 
framerbob said:
A customer...said that it needs to be in a shadow box set back from the glass at least 3 inches because of the nature of sheepskin??? I was scratching my head as to why she was told this.

Any reason for the glass to be that far from sheepskin??
Click to expand...

The glazing only needs to be fully separated from the animal skin. 3" seems like a lot, unless the skin's surface is quite wavy, curled from rolling, or creased from folding. If you separate the glazing by 1/2" or so, that should be enough to accommodate the skin's natural tendency to wrinkle in all but the most extreme environmental conditions.
 
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