Shadowbox Mat Spacers

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dougj

dougj

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Jan 15, 2005
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Martha's Vineyard Vineyard Haven MA
Have seen this before about weather to use glue or atg to mount mat to foamcore to make spacers.
I just finished some 3" wide spacers by mounting the mat to heat activated foam core then cutting to size.
Also did it this way to mount the backing mat to fc then use attach-ez to mount garmet.
This might not be new but it is to me:smiley:
 
I've always used ATG to attach the mat to the FC for spacers. Good idea with mounting the backing to FC, it must give it more strength and stability...
 
I still don't trust that heat activated foam core enough to use it in a shadow box, or ATG by itself. As taught by Jim Miller, I use ATG and a few dots (don't need to slather it on there) of PVA glue (I use Corner Weld). The ATG holds the foam core/mat strips in place until the glue dries. Same for the matbd/foam core (or Coroplast for the heavy stuff) backing. But you'd better make sure you get it in there right before you stick....'cause once the glue dries, it won't come out without tearing it apart. Now that, I trust!
 
Ditto what Val says. I use to glue/clamp the spacers to the frame, but Jim's suggestion of using ATG to adhere until the glue dries makes it a lot easier.

This is about the only place I use ATG anymore ...as a temporary bond.
 
For larger boxes I use stitchery tape or fillet tape - higher "bite" to attach the matting to the FC. I usually drymount the mat to the FC backer with fusion 4000, and have also done this with the spacers as well.
 
I have been using ATG and dots of Corner Weld. Never thought about drymounting, must try that.

I have recently done a couple of smaller pieces using the Wizard to cut a “box”. Vertical sides are relatively easy to cut. I like the finished look of the cove boxes but it takes a lot of trial and error to end up with the correct size box.

You still need foamcore (or something else) between the box and the frame to hold the glass in. Don’t ask how I discovered that! Oops!

Clive.
 
I use ATG; but I make sure it is the 1/2 inch 969 rather than the 924. I never have any problems with the boards separating.
 
Artmart said:
I use ATG; but I make sure it is the 1/2 inch 969 rather than the 924. I never have any problems with the boards separating.
Click to expand...
I have. The boards held together, but they separated from the inside wall of the moulding, bowed. It wasn't pretty either. That's why I now use glue dots as well. Insurance.
 
I read here, probably from Hugh Phibbs that ATG provides a chemical bond and glue provides a mechanical bond.

We have an S.O.P. - if it fails and that failure will be visible - use PVA (etc) in addition to ATG - i.e. double mats, matboard to line rabbets etc.

Boards used to make a fillet flush, to make something painted on board flush or other out of sight stuff, ATG alone is fine, but even then a few dabs of PVA will prevent falling apart during assembly.
 
I "skin" the mat's color off it's core and wrap the foamcore spacers with ATG then use ATG and dots of Corner Weld to attach to the walls...so far, so good. Even if it did bow out, it will still be the same color.
 
I'd emphasize "SMALL dots of glue" with ATG as stated by Val. Too much glue makes the ATG perfectly ineffective. Another method for wall construction we use is fabric wraps. If you have a good selection of fabrics in your shop's arsenal it also works well as substrate when doing sewdowns. It is much easier to sew through fabric and foamcore than matboard...MUCH easier.
 
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