Saw blades for Chop saws

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superdon

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I'm looking for saw recommendations For cutting hardwoods. I've been having burning problems. Should i be using crosscut or something elce
 
superdon said:
I'm looking for saw recommendations For cutting hardwoods. I've been having burning problems. Should i be using crosscut or something elce
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When was it sharpened last?

If you REALLY need a new blade and not jsut sharpening, Winnie at Clearmount Corp sells some.

Get a good 100 tooth blade.
 
Cliff Wilson said:
When was it sharpened last?

If you REALLY need a new blade and not jsut sharpening, Winnie at Clearmount Corp sells some.

Get a good 100 tooth blade.
Click to expand...

I second this recommendation. If you smell burning, then your blade is dull, end of story. Compo'd and gessoed mouldings dull saw blades much faster than plain wood; a picture framer should be getting blades sharpened MUCH more often than a carpenter or cabinetmaker.

I now have a four-blade rotation of Clearmount 100-tooth blades. You should also find a GOOD sharpening service. The first one I tried meant well, but the blades were coming back cutting almost as rough as before (and he took off a lot of material too). For a while I was sending them out to Clearmount to be sharpened, but the shipping costs and the lag time were killing me. Finally found a good local service (after asking around on the Grumble). They know their stuff, and they do weekly pickup and delivery. Can't beat that!

Oh, and if you cut metal, get a separate blade. Clearmount sells a TCG blade for cutting metal that's MUCH better than any wood blade that I've used.
 
I have found that except for very small mouldings there's no noticeable difference between 80T and 100T blades, assuming they are both of comparable good quality and properly sharpened. Generally 80T blades are less expensive to buy and maintain.
 
newly sharpened, but still burns. I have a 4 blade rotation, but most are on the way out. looking for the best alternative replacement.
 
What type of saw and blade are you currently using?

Have you checked to see that the blade arbor it at a true 90° to the cutting position?

A properly sharpened quality blade that is true..... should not "burn" the wood, hard or soft.
 
Call Quinn Saw. You will get an honest answer based on exactly what you are cutting and the equipment you are using to cut with. I have a stack of top of the line specialty blades from several Framing blade suppliers but the ones I got from Quinn are as good or better than any others I own. Half the price too.
 
If your blades are recently sharpened and you are still getting burning, the carbide tips are probably too far gone. Another possibility is that the sharpening was not done properly and they need to be reset. The most likely cause is it is just time to replace the blade. It is less likely that the blade is out of square, since your corners would be off as well as burned.

I have very good luck with Forrest blades. They literally can last a lifetime of continuous use if they are sent back to Forrest for sharpening and reconditioning. They are actually less expensive than the local guy, and the blades come back perfect every time. I don't even know how old my chop blades are since they were on my used Pistorius when I bought it.

They are very good to talk with you explaining the technical aspects of the blades, even blades that are not theirs. I recently bought a new blade for my table saw and found them to be very helpful.
 
superdon, If you could give me a call on Monday and give me a few more bits of information I can recommend a blade that should work out for you.
Let me know if you have a single or double miter machine, and the diameter and bore size of the saw blade. You can check out all the blade specs and prices on our web site so you have an idea of cost an availability.
 
From a woodworkers experience:

the material is binding against the blade, whether it be the vertical or horizontal alignment.

or it could be your feed rate is too slow.

Mike
 
We've been getting blades sharpened for years by the same person locally. I priced blades on-line compared to what he offered and there was a big price difference. After talking to him, he was able to bring his price down to a comparable price, and threw in 6 mos. sharpening. After comparing the specs to the on-line blades, no difference, plus he explained the pros and cons of each. The added benefit is it's supporting local business.
 
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