RUBBER BUMPERS

Jason

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Posts
198
Location
Iowa
I, like many framers, use rubber bumpers on the bottom two corners of all of the items I frame. Once in a while, these bumpers work their way off the frame. Is there any harm in placing a dot of SuperGlue on the bumper before putting it on the frame? If this is not a good idea, what other tricks are used? Thanks.
 
I have begun using United's black felt bumpers - they are less expensive, more earth-friendly - and they seem REALLY sticky!

I still use the clear round bumpers for metal frames - they stick fairly well - but the rubber bumpers just do not stick to paper and applying tape to the location of the bumper is tedious at best (but does increase the sticking power!).

Try the felt bumpers!
 
I do the same as Framar.
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Me too. I love the felt ones. I've noticed on lots of reframe jobs that the Bumpons (even if they haven't melted
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) will often slide off their own double-stick backing as they age, if it has managed to remain stuck to the paper dust cover.
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Rick
 
I think it was Jim Miller (correct me if I'm wrong) who suggested a bit of ATG on the spot prior to attaching the bumpons. Works great!
 
Janet, I thought Jim's idea was to put a bit of framer's tape or 810 on the paper prior to applying the Bumpons.

That also works great.
 
After all the weirdness with melting bumpons, and sliding bumpons, we switched to felt.

You can glue the rubber bumpers on, but they may still slide off of their side of the adhesive.
 
Jim always uses Bump-Ons because he thinks they work best. He uses black ones and clear ones, but never brown.

He hasn't found a felt dot that is thick enough to serve the purpose of bumpers, which is to create a minimum 1/8" separation from the wall so air can circulate behind the frame. Felt has some initial loft, but then it compresses.

Also, most of the felt dots he has seen on frames coming in for repair or updating have moved around and left a gooey spot, presumably because the adhesive became mushy over time. Sometimes there's just a gooey spot where the felt bumper was before it fell off, and occasionally there's a small bit of the customer's wall paint stuck where the felt pad once was. As framing products, Jim thinks high-quality felt pads and high-quality masking tape are in the same category.

Ron's right -- Jim's idea was to put a small square (about 1" square) of Framer's Tape under each Bump-On. ATG might be messy and it wouldn't work. Better still, use the round spots of tape available from office supply stores.

The purpose of the tape patch is to increase the surface area of adhesion to the paper, using a material that will not rip off easily.
The Bump-Ons' adhesive is plenty strong enough to hold on a firm, integral surface, such as Framer's Tape or finished wood.

The problem is that dustcover paper has a loose-fiber surface that disintegrates easily, so the fibers stuck to the Bump-On's non-migrating, strong adhesive separate from the paper with little provocation.

Jim looked at torn-off Bump-Ons and saw the paper's fibers stuck securely to their backs, which no longer felt sticky because they were covered with paper fibers. Ah-Ha! he exclaimed.

Jim also keeps in mind that Bump-Ons have a pressure-sensitive adhesive, so he bumps his Bump-Ons to activate the adhesive to the tape.
 
Pickerington sounds so formal, the city his shop is in, maybe that's why he lapsed into the third person. Sure was weird to read. I could see the steel bar running up his spine to stiffen it as I read. By the way, I agree about the rubber bumpers vs the felt.
 
Wow! Who would have guessed that air can't fit through a space smaller than 1/8".

And lets not tell it about the large space along the sides either.....shhhhhh. our secret.

:rolleyes:


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Felt bumper for 39+ years and still not flat yet.

and if you stack them, you can't pull them apart. Try that with a rubber bumper on your buggy baby.
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A spot, blob, dollop, or other small mass of
hot melt glue can also form an inexpensive bumper
and the electrical grade 3M3797, or 3748, as
found at United should not react with wall coverings. No other adhesive needed.

Hugh
 
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