reverse bevels and linen mats

[Mike Drury]

Is there a trick to cutting reverse bevels on stock linen mats? They ravel and fray. Peace, Mike

 

[Couture's Gallery]

sharp sharp blade..if threads are sticking out into the opening use a light sand paper to dress the edge, this works sometimes....other than that, good luck.

 

[Jim Miller]

...and a fresh slip sheet.

I once had to cut a fabric covered mat that frayed every time, no matter what I tried. I think it was defective. Anyway, I cut 3/4 through the board from the back, then scraped the paper fibers off the back of the fabric just inside the opening, and wrapped the bevel. Looked good...like a fabric-wrapped mat, eh?

 

[Jerry Ervin]

sharp blade and cut from the front.

 

[Dave]

Another thing I've done is taken Frank's Fabric Adhesive and very lightly touch the entire perimeter of the mat after it's cut to prevent further fraying. If you use very little it disappears entirely.

Jim ...like your fabric wrapping technique... I'll have to try that!

 

[FramerDave]

You know that little steel spatula that Bainbridge gave away when Restore first came out? Sometimes I'll use that and run the end of it between the edge of the fillet and the mat along all four sides of the opening. It sort of pushes the loose threads down into the space between the board and the fillet.

 

[CAframer]

Most critical issue is a sharp blade, followed by extreme care when removing the drop out. On some intricate designs it may be necessary to use an X-Acto on the reverse to liberate the drop out. As in this example that I've just completed where I traced part of the image from a Wysocki LE, then insert it into a decorative open V-groove. This was cut RB into Crescent Loden Green linen. Another Loden Green was repeated under the decorative mat to create a very subtle overall effect. When attending to any stray threads a 16X loupe can be a great help.

 

[BILL WARD]

whip out your granny glasses(or better still-those flipup many magnification magnifiers) , get out your sharp boyscout type carving knives(more control than MC/razor blades), and go to work CARFULLY triming the frayed areas---caution to NOT pull on those errant threads a that make where they come from look bare and might cause a recut! this process complicated by the prescence of one or more sets of crossed fingers

 

[Joe B]

Like everyone else has said - very sharp blade. For any fraying after the use of a sharp blade I, now I'm sure this may get some negative comments, I quickly use a Bic lighter to run around the window, magic word being quickly. That takes the fraying away and actually helps keep it from fraying further.

 

[Sister]

I use Dritz Fray Check which is an acid free, lignin (or lignen?) free, nylon plastic in an alcohol base.

If too much is used on a dark mat like black or navy, it will sometimes appear white. It is best to ALWAYS perform a test on a scrap piece of your mat to be sure you will get the desirable results.

Because Fray Check is a plastic, it may yellow over time which can be a problem when used on light-colored fabrics. However, when used correctly, this should not be a problem on your mats. Be mindful of this and use sparingly--a little goes a long way.

I generally use the finest detailed script/liner artists brush to apply on the frays (no, I cannot paint--not even stick people). I got the brush and Fray Check at WM.

 

[Luddite]

...and a fresh slip sheet.

I once had to cut a fabric covered mat that frayed every time, no matter what I tried. I think it was defective. Anyway, I cut 3/4 through the board from the back, then scraped the paper fibers off the back of the fabric just inside the opening, and wrapped the bevel. Looked good...like a fabric-wrapped mat, eh?

I`ve done that...looks cool! L.