Reverse Bevel with two or more mats

KL

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Nov 9, 2004
Posts
11
Loc
Oregon
I have just purchased a Flethcer 2200 60" and am trying to get used to it. I'm have trouble cutting revese bevels I never had this problem with my 48" C&H?

Do you cut them one at a time with all the mats the same size? Or do you cut the top mat face up then draw lines based on your top mats measurments for your second and third and cut it face down with the hole to the left of the cutting head?

Thanks for all your help.
 
I'd be curious about why the procedure would be different with a Fletcher than it is with the C&H.
 
I only use reverse bevels on certain items and usually cut only one mat with a reverse bevel (as for installing a fillet). The few times that I need a double mat with both reverse fillets (as for a pastel that may "shed"), I square both boards on all 4 sides first with both boards the same size and then cut them individually. The reason I square all the sides is to ensure that both boards will be square on all sides and square to each other. The factory edges aren't always cut square and this removes what little variance there may be in the factory edges.

But I have the same question that Ron posted, how is it any different cutting reverse bevels on a Fletcher than on a C&H??

Framerguy
 
BTW: Kristin, welcome to the Grumble.

It goes beyond the "F" vs "C" thing. The heads are different, and if the stops are out in the C then you can cut left.

But I think you might find that squaring the two mats [temperarily stuck together with a tab of ATG in the center] together, and cutting seperately will work best.

Especially when you go to do that 5 layered mat with 4 different fillets... :D
thumbsup.gif
 
Originally posted by Melinda Tennis:
I tape my bottom mat to the top mat in the center cut out space, face up with both.
Are you cutting the mats face up? If so, how do you avoid the overcuts at the window corners?
 
Very light pencil marks at each corner, Bill. Make your cuts exactly to the corner mark and erase any pencil marks left on the mats after the cuts. You will have to take a mat cutter blade and finish off each corner as the blade doesn't cut all the way to the bottom bevel of the corners using this technique but that is an easy problem to handle.

Using Melinda's technique you have to compensate for the blade offset that occurs when cutting through the top mat opening. And you need to extend your blade alittle to compensate for the thickness of the top mat.

FGII
 
If you put a strip of removable tape, you can draw lines to your heart's content!

Betty
 
When cutting a reverse bevel in suede face up set your stop 1/8 inch short and use the blade to finish the cut on the back. I think the same amount probably does it on a reg mat as well. Experiment with scrap.

I cut each separately. It's more fun on a CMC but there is that learning curve.
 
Thank's to everone for great advice.

I think it is just a mater of getting use to a new machine. (I really Like my 12+ year old 48" C&H) The cutting heads slide very different. And I am use to having mats up against a squaring arm rather than a 1" mat stop.

Does anyone use a squaring arm on their fletcher? I use my Fletcher wall mount to square the mats.

Thanks
 
I have a squaring arm on mine. It does get the job done, but I would still love to have a wall cutter. It works, but you have to be careful and make sure it stays in alignment which it does not like to do.

Steevn
 
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