reverse bevel overcuts?

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geperry

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I'm cutting a double mat with reverse bevels.....
What can I do about the overcuts that show? when cutting a normal beveled mat, the overcuts shoe on the back side, but not on the front. But, when cutting a reverse bevel, the overcuts show on the front. Am I doing something wrong?
 
Cut the mat in reverse 1/8" over sized....

or

do what I do: over-cut the dang thing because the fabric will cover it.

but when I HAVE to rev-bev a paper mat, I cut it backwards.... if you're one of those who is dependent on "production" stops... (they only stop production IMHO) then you're sorta outa luck...they won't work.

(actually I love production stops. When you throw them real hard against the sheet rock....they stick) :D
 
Gina, I don't know how you cut yours, but, when I cut mine I draw my lines on the back side of the board as per usual. Then I sit the board under the bar backwards from a regular cut, so I am using the pencil line as my guage instead of the measuring bar. With a normal cut you usually extend the blade beyond where the pencil lined intersect. When doing a reverse bevel just don't extend beyond the intersected lines as much. Usually on my reverse bevels I start the blade right at the intersection but I imagine all cutters are different.....
 
Just did the same thing this morning. First time...overcuts. Try it Emibub's way....it worked for me, too.
 
I have done reverse bevels with and without production stops...

With production stops I found that an 1/8" adjustment worked perfectly.

The other way (where I guess I still use production stops to my measure) - I draw the lines on the backside and figure where the blade will begin and adjust a production stop for that exact starting point and the ending point - according to my pencil measures - once I turn the board over. Then it's just a little slide of the blade in to clip the board that is still a little bit attached on the back.

I have great results either of these ways.

(And did I say I love doing fillets!!)

Roz
 
It is better to cut a reverse bevel from the back just like you do normally. The overcut cannot be eliminated if you cut from the face of the board.

With a reverse bevel you need to consider the thickness of the mat board when you making your guide and stop calculations. For most mat boards, I use 1/16” as a standard (3/32” is probably more accurate, but then you have to interpolate the number on most rulers).

Assuming that you wish to cut a 3” RevBev.

Draw your pencil lines 3 <u>minus</u> 1/16” = 2 –15/16”.

Set your stops 3 <u>plus</u> 1/16” = 3 –1/16”.

Depending on how you have your stops calibrated, you may have to fiddle around with the fraction (e.g. 1/16”) to get it just right.
 
Thanks for all the input.... guess I shoulda mentioned I was using a speedmat. I am partial to the thing (the speedmat).... and have a logan on the table for v-grooves and thick mats..... guess I'll have to use it.... wish I had a CMC! Ahhhhh... someday.......
 
Gina,
I have been doing reverse cuts on my manual fletcher with no problem other than thinking ahead. I cut from the front, and put removable tape on each of the corners where my lines will intersect (put the tape on your pants for a second to make sure it loses most of its stick) then lightly mark the lines with pencil. You can use it this way without any stops to confuse you. Make sure you undercut each corner so you don't have overcuts. The mat won't fall out, but the small amount still attatched in each corner can easily be cut with a blade as you would (CAREFULLY) do for any other undercut.

I hope this is clear. Try it out on a few scraps so you know where to cut without going over, and you'll get the hang of it quickly.
I used to really dislike them until I stared doing them more for fillets. They do take a couple of minutes more than regular, but it's not so bad. Good luck!
 
Try this one on for size - no tape, no pencil marks and you cut from the front.

Set the width of your mat, say 3 inches. Find any piece of mat, say around 5" X 7". Make sure its square and not beveled.

Cut a 3" by whatever strip. Then cut off a 3" square from each end. What you will end up with is a pair of template/production stops that have bevels on two connected sides and straight cut on the other sides. Place the corner of the template with both bevels where the corner of the mat opening will be, on the face of the mat, after it's in the cutter.

By placing them on the corners, with the bevel facing up, you now know exactly where the blade will arrive from the adjoining sides, which is where you start and stop on the side you are cutting.

You will have to saw the rest of the cuts to get the drop out to drop out, but . . . no tape, pencil marks or compensating on the measurements.

For a bottom weighted mat you have to cut 2 squares and 2 rectangles, but if top/bottom are different from left/right then you cut just 2 rectangles.

I have never seen this in print. Have you seen this before?
 
I do mine like The Frame Lady, using removable tape. I just did a suede mat to use with a fillet and it worked great.

I do a lot of open bevel mats, and they require part of the mat to be cut in a reverse bevel.

I'd have to think too much to do it like Eric - that makes my head hurt...

Betty
 
When I have cut a reverse bevels manually ,I have found the removeable post-ums with the pencil marks on them to be the best help . However while reading the other suggestions, which I am sure work just fine for all who use them ,I couldn't help but notice some problems I might have doing the same.

When you cut from the front of the mat and you start where the two cuts meet ,I think it might be wise to notice that when the Blade is stabbed into the mat there is a slight bit of a wiggle or gouge to the beginning of the cut. This is why many suggest that you stroke the blade into a mat instead of just plungeing it in, even from the rear.I actually belive that may be why the rear overcut is desirable (it allows a slight stroke before the blade actually perforates the face paper,hiding any imperfect cuts.

However It has also been my experience that not all rear overcuts will always be of the same lengths. It is where the cuts intersect that is important not where they start so it has been my experience that the overcut many times is not the same at the top and bottom .Furthermore the intersection of the overcuts may differ when the btm. meets the top overcut in a different sequence.

When I was trying to devise a working method before the Post-um trick I would always try to measure the overcuts to the 1/32 of an inch and adjust the stops to subtract those measurements from the start and stop points and then very slightly undercut the corners and use a loose blade to finish the cuts.

Also when I have cut open V-grooves /3D double bevels as Betty suggest I always cut the reverse side first and then the regular cut which ,unless the gap is as little as 1/8 inch, the drop between the two cuts usually has the overcut in it and it isn't a problem.

As a matter of fact even now that I use a Wizard for this cut it is necessary to adjust the CONFIGURATION for ever type of intersection and to periodically readjust them. If you have a CMC you may have noted that configureing the overcuts out is differnt for differnt cuts depending on which way the head is traveling and which direction it is turning.

All of which makes me belive there is no perfect method and trimming is the best remedy for the imperfection.However what ever you are comfortable with ,by all means use it.LOL
BUDDY
 
I find them really easy to do.

I mark the back like always, then remove the mat guide bar, let the mat hang WAY off to front edge, and cut right where the two lines intersect. Never had an overcut/undercut problem. Don't know how to do it on an Esterly or a CMC but I'd like to try someday!

I may just be compensating automatically for the blade going in, but I don't do so knowingly.
 
I cut from the front, set the stops 1/8 inch wider and finish by cutting with a blade from the back.
 
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