L
lumbermill
Guest
What is the easiest way to remove creases & wrinkles from Posters & Prints.
Will appreciate any help anyone may have.
Will appreciate any help anyone may have.
No way no how. Once the surface of the print is broken there is nothing short of a conservator that can be done.
I guess in my dictionary a crease(fold) means a broken surface.
I guess I am not sure exactly what a wrinkle is? Anybody know?
You can try building a humidity chamber in a large vessel such as a trash can to relax fibers. The artwork should not touch the water in the bottom, but should stay in the closed environment to absorb moisture.
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Timberwoman
AL
I cut the mat, I pet the cat.
[This message has been edited by ArtLady (edited May 17, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by ArtLady (edited May 17, 2000).]
I guess in my dictionary a crease(fold) means a broken surface.
I guess I am not sure exactly what a wrinkle is? Anybody know?
You can try building a humidity chamber in a large vessel such as a trash can to relax fibers. The artwork should not touch the water in the bottom, but should stay in the closed environment to absorb moisture.
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Timberwoman
AL
I cut the mat, I pet the cat.
[This message has been edited by ArtLady (edited May 17, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by ArtLady (edited May 17, 2000).]
L
lumbermill
Guest
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ArtLady:
No way no how. Once the surface of the print is broken there is nothing short of a conservator that can be done.
What if the surface isn't broken
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
No way no how. Once the surface of the print is broken there is nothing short of a conservator that can be done.
What if the surface isn't broken
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
L
lumbermill
Guest
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ArtLady:
No way no how. Once the surface of the print is broken there is nothing short of a conservator that can be done.
What if the surface isn't broken
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
No way no how. Once the surface of the print is broken there is nothing short of a conservator that can be done.
What if the surface isn't broken
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Bogframe
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
If the surface of the print isn't broken, and it's a relatively innexpensive (replacable) print, try this: lightly mist the back of the print with water, place face down between two sheets of matboard and put the sandwich in your press. If you're using a cold press, this may take about 45 minutes. In a hot press, try about 5 minutes at around 190F. Let me know if this works for you, I do it often with posters that have been carelessly stored by my clients.
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Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
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Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
Be careful with the misting. You can get in big trouble if the artwork is not replaceable.
Drymount. Only if it's not of value. If they just want to presevre it and not enjoy it put it in a preservation box and store it.
Just have to tell this story. Recently had 6 posters brought in (expensive to the purchaser) which were inexpensive but since I opened the package and the edges of the largest one had thumb prints and wrinkles I decided the shipper should replace it which they did. They didn't want the damaged one back so I decided to drymount it to see how it would turn out. When I got done I couldn't tell the good from the bad. If I had been selling a frame and not just drymounting I probably would have chanced it in the beginning but I didn't want to lose money on the error of others.
Generally the creases would still show some but usually not noticeable to most.
[This message has been edited by JPete (edited May 17, 2000).]
Just have to tell this story. Recently had 6 posters brought in (expensive to the purchaser) which were inexpensive but since I opened the package and the edges of the largest one had thumb prints and wrinkles I decided the shipper should replace it which they did. They didn't want the damaged one back so I decided to drymount it to see how it would turn out. When I got done I couldn't tell the good from the bad. If I had been selling a frame and not just drymounting I probably would have chanced it in the beginning but I didn't want to lose money on the error of others.
Generally the creases would still show some but usually not noticeable to most.
[This message has been edited by JPete (edited May 17, 2000).]
There is no "easy" way. Try the hot steamy bathroom environment as discussed so many times before, and then heat press between [white] rag at about 180F over ten minutes or so. Lower temperature over longer time is better than the reverse.
. . . if that does not weork . . .
AL is correct: once the claycoat surface is broken you are pretty well euchred - unless retouching etc, is a consideration.
Having said that, if salvage is the goal, and if there is no other alternative, as a last resort you could consider laminating with Seal's Exhibitex. It will mask extremely serious wrinkling and damage - but it is a non-reversable operation.
Orton
[This message has been edited by Orton (edited May 19, 2000).]
. . . if that does not weork . . .
AL is correct: once the claycoat surface is broken you are pretty well euchred - unless retouching etc, is a consideration.
Having said that, if salvage is the goal, and if there is no other alternative, as a last resort you could consider laminating with Seal's Exhibitex. It will mask extremely serious wrinkling and damage - but it is a non-reversable operation.
Orton
[This message has been edited by Orton (edited May 19, 2000).]