Realigning a wall cutter

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threefiveo125go

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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Apr 23, 2007
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How do I go about this? Lately my glass hasn't been breaking along the score line. Instead it has been curving to the edge of the glass which makes it a real PITA to save. I had to scrap two lites today :faintthud:

:help:
 
You should be able to increase the tension of the scoring wheel - but before you do that, try putting a sheet of matboard behind the glass - it'll have the same effect and also cushion the 'snap'.
 
Are you using steel cutting wheels or titanium? The steel ones wear out really fast. I've had the same titanium wheel in mine for about 2 years. It sounds like your wheel may be skipping. Adding tension may help as Robo suggested. But the steel wheels will still wear out faster.
 
If the wall cutter is really out of alignment, your mats and foam won't be cutting square on it. That's easy to test. I'm thinking Richard is on the right track -- change your cutting wheel.
 
OK, I just got done replacing all kind of parts on my wall cutter. I got a kit that had the springs, bushings and channel bars in it and I am still getting a "Hook" at the top with my mats. I get it every once and a while with glass but more with the mats. I replace my glass wheels and blades regularly any suggestions?
 
For mats, its a good idea not to score all in one cut. Try holding the handle half way and score gently on first cut and a little more on second, and all the way on the third. This way you should get a perfect cut. If you come down hard on the first cut, I think it bends the blade on top, thus the curve on top.
 
Get a titanium cutting wheel and back off on the tension until it stops scoring the glass. Tighten the tension just enough to hear a faint scribe in the glass. That should be enough to have a clean, straight break. An occasion application of kerosene will provide enough lubrication to get years of service out of the wheel.
If the cuts are hooking on entry, you may need more shims to keep the head from wobbling. After about 20 years I finally did an overhaul on my 3000 and learned in the process that I really should have been doing it on an annual basis.
I don't believe it is necessary to make multiple passes on regular thickness matboards provided the cutter is properly adjusted and aligned. I do make multiple passes on thicker boards
 
We have two different wallcutters in this thread in need of attention and we have no idea what brand or model either one is. Give us clues and we can share tips based on actual equipment.
 
It might be the head is loose, not that the bars are out of line. I had a similar problem which was corrected by a few simple screws being tightend.
 
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