Questions about a huge shadowbox

Jana

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We might have to do a big *** shadowbox that is approximately 53" x 96" or is it 56" x 93"? Well, it's close. We would use the largish, flat, deep Soho moulding. Would a piece of 1/8" plexi that large bow outward? Thicker plexi would be too heavy, I think.

We would like to use black suede matboard. It comes oversized, but we would still have to piece it. I think that would be okay.

Any suggestions appreciated!
 

JRB

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Myself, I would use 3/16" or 1/4" plexi. I would join it with a Hoffmann joiner. I think I would make my own moulding for that sucker. I am not familiar with Soho moulding, so maybe not. Good luck,

John
 

preservator

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At that size, you are, as John noted, in the 1/4"
range. A lite of acrylic that big is heavy and
however you decide to join the molding, it is
wise to put screws into the joints from above
and below. They will never be seen by the public
but they will be needed to hold the weight of
the glazing. A serious strainer will also be
needed for such a frame. Extra strength can be
had if you run screws through the top and bottom
of the frame, into the strainer; if these are
added, a note should be added to the back of
the strainer pointing them out.

Hugh
 

Kit

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What's in the box, Jan?

If it's an assortment of objects, would making two or three smaller boxes be an option?

Kit
 

Jana

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It's a wool rug in the shape of a splayed tiger. Why can't it be a tiger cub? I'm glad it's not a real tiger skin.
 

wpfay

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I would be inclined to get a custom milled frame as well. The 1/4" rabbet may not be deep enough to accommodate the contraction and expansion of a sheet of acrylic this size. I did a frame about this size a couple of years ago and milled a solid Red Oak (You could use Poplar) frame that was 4" deep and 1 7/8" across the face. I made the rabbet 7/16" x 3 1/2". The strainer frame was made from 1x4 clear pine and had cross bracing in both directions. It was attached from the inside using a pocket cutter and dry wall screws.
The finish was put on in a spray booth of a local cabinet shop. If you join the frame before you finish it, you can countersink the screws and use auto body putty (Bondo) to fill the screw holes.

You also might want to look at hand covering the backing so you won't have to splice.

Figure on the completed frame weighing 150-200 pounds.
 

Rick Granick

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BTW, don't forget to charge LOTS of money for this job. Don't forget to include things like finding and shipping the oversize acrylic, transportation and installation (what kind of hanging hardware?) of the finished project, and of course all your time involved in custom procedures as well as mounting the piece itself. Estimate high. If you come in underbudget in the long run, the client will be thrilled. If you cheat yourself, you won't.
:cool: Rick
 

Kit

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If you were to stretch screen and black velour over the strainer, then sew mount the tiger to that, would that give the rug enough support?

Plexi may be the least of your problems.

Or maybe not, if you get static from the plexi making all the little fibers in the wool stand straight up.

Kit
 

nona powers

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Bainbridge now makes suedes, all colors, in 40 by 60. You would still have to piece it, but suede doesn't show the butt join if you cut an overlapping bevel on each side and place them together.

Nona Powers, CPF
www.nonapowers.com
 

FrameMakers

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You might consider using a fabric covered liner inside the shadowbox moulding. Put the plex between the backing and the frame. The larger face should help with the stability & act as a strainer. Raphael's has the Cresent suedes available on liners and as yard goods.
 

stud d

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next too you
I am not sure about this, but what about thinking outside of framing materials? Why not a good bed sheet or possibly even a shower curtain-if they come large enough? These materials come in a wide variety of colors and textures and sometimes are less than going to the fabric store or matboards. The other thing you could do is mount 4ply board to coroplast in order to give it some stength, but you need a strainer. Do not screw the srews though the side of the frame, but go from the strainer into the frame. This will allow you to take it apart if need be-covering the holes on the outside is a good idea if it is never coming apart, but thinking ahead...might not be the best bet.
good luck
d
 

Leslie S.

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The very thought of getting the dust out of that huge booger, WOOL rug, BLACK background, PLEXIGLASS...makes me want to cry. No kidding, charge waaaay more for time.
 

Jack Cee

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I would suggest that you contact a fabric supplier and obtain suede fabric to cover just about anyting that you would care to use as a mounting board. You would have to alternative of piecing together your choice of boards. Some products are available in very large sizes; larger than 60 x 40. We mount the fabric in a vacuum press using vacumount and have had no separations. You should seal any wood mounting with a good coat of shellac or other seal.

I also suggest that you use a strainer which will add to the support of provided by your Moulding. Look at useing an unfinished moulding as provided by Foster Moulding of the L.A. area. Give them a call (look in a listing of moulding providers for the #).

I know of a bar that uses large mountings such as full football uniforms etc. mounted on the ceiling. I know this because I have, had the opportunity to look at the ceiling in several bars


Jack Cee
 
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